400hp build
Not even that. The rod bolt myth has been debunked. Upgraded hardware on the bottom is not necessary at all. Even the OEM paper gaskets and OEM TTY head bolts will be fine at the 600whp levels. Literally needs to do nothing more than bolt on a turbo kit with the proper fuel upgrades and a good tune...and a transmission upgrade.
Not even that. The rod bolt myth has been debunked. Upgraded hardware on the bottom is not necessary at all. Even the OEM paper gaskets and OEM TTY head bolts will be fine at the 600whp levels. Literally needs to do nothing more than bolt on a turbo kit with the proper fuel upgrades and a good tune...and a transmission upgrade.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
I'm running approximately 525 at the crank on my daily driven Silverado. I tow frequently with no issues. Just a 5.3L. Edelbrock E-Force supercharger, Kooks headers y-pipe with their new green cats and an AIRAID MXP intake. Bone stock rotating assembly and the very friendly 6 lb boost pulley. Still knocks down around 17-18mpg (if I'm not driving it like a maniac). Total cost was around $10K. The first dyno pull video is in my signature. Its been a little more than a year and a half since it was installed and I'm well over 100k on the speedo and close to 25k on the new parts. Using a Fitch fuel catalyst now and no longer running 92 octane...running 87!
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,445
Likes: 4
martin at tick has some good cams for 5.3s .if you are on a budget find a good 6.0 .if you want that new engine smell check out Texas Speed for short blocks or rotating assemblies .get the correct reluctor wheel on the crank ,so the engine swap will be easier .
I disagree. 160k is barely broken in from what I've seen on these motors and a great place to start when adding a turbo. My 5.3 had over 160k on it and looked great. I reused the original bearings/rings etc and ran it all year at the 800+ crank hp mark. All OEM hardware etc. I believe reusing the original timing chain was a bad idea however and what lead to it's failure at the end of the year.
The old K.I.S.S. method applies here. Absolutely no reason to "build a motor" if your HP goals are 600whp and below these days. If the motor craps out... buy another stock JY motor and throw it in. Save your money for fuel management and a decent transmission. Even the early 4.8's in stock form will make 600+ easily on the OEM longblocks.
So a 6.0. With a 216/220. And a set of heads. Roughly 2k. 6.0 from junkyard about 650. Or so. For under 3k. I have a 450hp motor.
What would a parts list/cost to a turbo build on my 5.3? Let's say I didn't rebuild it. Didn't even take the motor out of the truck. Just through a turbo on it and tuned it. Prefer a rear Mount for space. But open to a front Mount if it let's me keep my ac and all that. What the a Cheap build that's going to be reliable?
And what trans upgrades would I need to do to hold 450chp? I really dont want much more than 450chp to start. Maybe turn it up (if turbo) but 450 mark is my goal.
Also I have a 4wd. Its lowered 3/5 so I will have to beef up the transfer case as well. The whole point of this build was to stay as basic as possible. And just gain like 100-150hp over stock form. Anyone know what would need to be done to a ttansfer case to beef it up?
Last edited by Silverado2469; Nov 22, 2013 at 10:53 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
$10K to go from 240rwhp to 420rwhp was a good investment for me. Only thing I might do differently next time is go turbo. I have a feeling it would have been close to the same $$. Still fun as hell to drive though. Freaks out the mustang and camaro guys!
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Verdad Gallardo Suppose it depends if you do the work yourself or not. I spent $220 on my JY 5.3. Built the hotside myself in an afternoon with mild steel. (not pretty!) Less than 3k total on the turbo kit including AEM EMS ECU,turbo, and fuel system upgrades. (bought most of it used)
Made well over 800fwhp at 24+lbs of boost. Over 100 1/4 mile passes. Most in the low 9 second range. Even hit 8's towards the end. Quite a few street miles on it too. Always driven to the track. Timing chain let go on the last run on the last race of the year and took out the motor. Already have a replacement motor for under $400. (will be even less when I sell off the heads and intake) Just gonna drop it in and go.
That does seem like a huge jump for only 6lbs. 10k to run 6lbs of boost is pretty pricey IMO. I have roughly 10k in my whole setup including the price of the car.
Suppose it depends if you do the work yourself or not. I spent $220 on my JY 5.3. Built the hotside myself in an afternoon with mild steel. (not pretty!) Less than 3k total on the turbo kit including AEM EMS ECU,turbo, and fuel system upgrades. (bought most of it used)
Made well over 800fwhp at 24+lbs of boost. Over 100 1/4 mile passes. Most in the low 9 second range. Even hit 8's towards the end. Quite a few street miles on it too. Always driven to the track. Timing chain let go on the last run on the last race of the year and took out the motor. Already have a replacement motor for under $400. (will be even less when I sell off the heads and intake) Just gonna drop it in and go.
Dammit guys. Everytime I think about doing a build. Someone talks into FI haha. I love turbos. But idfk. What trans upgrades do I need to do to keeo it alive with 400whp? And what about the rear end? Also I have a 4wd. Do I need to beef up the transfer case?
4l60e could live a little while at 400hp levels. IMO it's more cost effective to not spend any money on the 4l60e. Go with a 4l80e and a transo go shift kit with upgraded clutches. Then run a billet multi-disc circle D lockup converter.
Basically copy everything this guy does if you want it to live in boost cheaply.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...mph-18psi.html
OEM rear will be fine with street tires if you don't abuse it.
4l60e could live a little while at 400hp levels. IMO it's more cost effective to not spend any money on the 4l60e. Go with a 4l80e and a transo go shift kit with upgraded clutches. Then run a billet multi-disc circle D lockup converter.
Basically copy everything this guy does if you want it to live in boost cheaply.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...mph-18psi.html
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 166
Likes: 0
From: Seattle, WA
Mine is a 4wd truck. Trans, drive shafts, diff all good. And I beat the snot out of it constantly. lol
