First start up/Engine break in
First start up/Engine break in Already googled search thought threads about this getting to many mixed info on this.. what's the proper way to break in a new engine and with what oil... I hear baby it for a few hundred miles but some people get blow by I hear get it to operating temps then do a few 1/2 throttles and 3/4 throttles so rings can set change oil after 20 miles.. so what's the proper way input needed
TECH Resident
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 980
Likes: 2
I am in the same boat, there are mixed opinions but i think that running it hard to seat the rings right seems to be the majority. I think loading it on the dyno may be the best because you typically have to tune the new motor. what i think im going to do is heat cycle it, change the oil and filter, then trailer it to the dyno. I would like to just break it in on the street but im afraid running it hard without a good tune would end in disaster
When I got my new shortblock I was told to start it up and let it run for about 20 min, giving it light throttle and whatnot, and then a short easy drive. Then when done change the oil, and she is ready to go. So that's what I did
Also very important...I had a new base tune flashed for the car until I could get it to the dyno.
Also very important...I had a new base tune flashed for the car until I could get it to the dyno.
Last edited by HCI2000SS; Nov 24, 2013 at 12:49 PM.
I am in the same boat, there are mixed opinions but i think that running it hard to seat the rings right seems to be the majority. I think loading it on the dyno may be the best because you typically have to tune the new motor. what i think im going to do is heat cycle it, change the oil and filter, then trailer it to the dyno. I would like to just break it in on the street but im afraid running it hard without a good tune would end in disaster
When I got my new shortblock I was told to start it up and let it run for about 20 min, giving it light throttle and whatnot, and then a short easy drive. Then when done change the oil, and she is ready to go. So that's what I did
Also very important...I had a new base tune flashed for the car until I could get it to the dyno.
Also very important...I had a new base tune flashed for the car until I could get it to the dyno.
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run for 20 min or so with non synthetic oil. a few revs in the driveway never hurt no one 
change the oil again only using non synthetic oil. loaded up on the trailer next day and went racing. went 11.1x 6500rpms all day long (10+ passes) had no issues with blow by for the rest of the time i raced the car. put synthetic oil in the car after that race and enjoyed it. people seem to be very scared when it comes to breaking in new engines
change the oil again only using non synthetic oil. loaded up on the trailer next day and went racing. went 11.1x 6500rpms all day long (10+ passes) had no issues with blow by for the rest of the time i raced the car. put synthetic oil in the car after that race and enjoyed it. people seem to be very scared when it comes to breaking in new engines 
always tuned 
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,373
Likes: 4
From: Auckland, Nth Is, New Zealand.
Well his isn't! so why tell him your way with a carbied engine & assume it's ok for him. 
.
OP
Best bet, get it tuned on a dyno where it can be tuned, loaded up & get the rings bedded properly.
Use non synthetic for 5-10,000mls
Change your oil & filter after 100mls
After it's tuned, drive hit hard when need be, don't over rev or labor the engine
.OP
Best bet, get it tuned on a dyno where it can be tuned, loaded up & get the rings bedded properly.
Use non synthetic for 5-10,000mls
Change your oil & filter after 100mls
After it's tuned, drive hit hard when need be, don't over rev or labor the engine
Well his isn't! so why tell him your way with a carbied engine & assume it's ok for him. .
OP
Best bet, get it tuned on a dyno where it can be tuned, loaded up & get the rings bedded properly.
Use non synthetic for 5-10,000mls
Change your oil & filter after 100mls
After it's tuned, drive hit hard when need be, don't over rev or labor the engine
.OP
Best bet, get it tuned on a dyno where it can be tuned, loaded up & get the rings bedded properly.
Use non synthetic for 5-10,000mls
Change your oil & filter after 100mls
After it's tuned, drive hit hard when need be, don't over rev or labor the engine
I agree with using plain old oil...Chevron Delo400 is a gool one...much less
expensive than Joe Gibbs or The Green Oil stuff.
The ultimate way to seat the rings is on an engine dyno where any decent
operator will tell you that lugging/loading it while throttling it several times
to 3500-4500 rpms builds heat and that the combustion pressure helps to
force the rings into the crosshatch. Obviously the static compression ratio is
a constant however free revving or low rpm break in while ensuring good
longevity will not give the power benifits that can be had with the resistance
a dyno offers. Being as yours will be in the car..as other have stated..a good
base tune will get ya started and until you strap it down I'd do some freeway
cruising in 4th or 5th where you roll into the throttle say 3/4 or so but keep
lifting before the rpms exceed 4500 or 5000. This will build heat/resistance
and force the rings to seat quicker. I also use Total Seal Quickseat powder on
the cylinders during assembly instead of oil or Dexron.
expensive than Joe Gibbs or The Green Oil stuff.
The ultimate way to seat the rings is on an engine dyno where any decent
operator will tell you that lugging/loading it while throttling it several times
to 3500-4500 rpms builds heat and that the combustion pressure helps to
force the rings into the crosshatch. Obviously the static compression ratio is
a constant however free revving or low rpm break in while ensuring good
longevity will not give the power benifits that can be had with the resistance
a dyno offers. Being as yours will be in the car..as other have stated..a good
base tune will get ya started and until you strap it down I'd do some freeway
cruising in 4th or 5th where you roll into the throttle say 3/4 or so but keep
lifting before the rpms exceed 4500 or 5000. This will build heat/resistance
and force the rings to seat quicker. I also use Total Seal Quickseat powder on
the cylinders during assembly instead of oil or Dexron.
