5.3L Eating Headgaskets like Candy...
Thanks for that information, I need to confirm that I understand though. This notch you're speaking of is on the bottom half (the bottom head) of that image you showed me in the truckforums right? Would it be possible to detect that without removing the head? Also will I also have to remove the head to find the casting number?
Teching In
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 43
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Id be willing to bet the Cast tech heads are your problem. If you pull a valve cover, I believe the cast techs had a logo stamped onto the intake runner that looks like a battery. Some one can verify that but Im pretty sure that's how you tell.
As far as the casting number its on the end of the head near the valve cover. I believe it will only be visible on the front of the passenger side head. Its raised in the casting as shown below. 4.8/5.3 Iron blocks from 99-07 Classic typically have 706 or 862 head castings.
I'm going to undertake replacing the headgaskets myself, this is the first time I've undertaken a job like this. I've done basic boltons before without much trouble but headgaskets intimidate me, but I have to get it done because I need a running car and Im out of money.
What kind of tools will I need to do this?
Is it absolutely mandatory I have an air compressor?
What exactly is the order of removing the heads? I was guessing Fuel lines, Intake Manifold, P/S Pump, Headers, then finally the heads?
What gaskets exactly should I replace them with if they're notch'd heads, and what about if they're not notched? (I know notched means graphite but I need part numbers and where to get them)
What bolts should I get for BOTH the heads AND the headers? I need something cheap but effective but if I absolutely must I will use ARP. What kind of sealent do I need for those bolts?
Can I do this job without dropping the K-Member? Is there anything I should have them inspect when I drop these heads off at the machine shop?
What kind of tools will I need to do this?
Is it absolutely mandatory I have an air compressor?
What exactly is the order of removing the heads? I was guessing Fuel lines, Intake Manifold, P/S Pump, Headers, then finally the heads?
What gaskets exactly should I replace them with if they're notch'd heads, and what about if they're not notched? (I know notched means graphite but I need part numbers and where to get them)
What bolts should I get for BOTH the heads AND the headers? I need something cheap but effective but if I absolutely must I will use ARP. What kind of sealent do I need for those bolts?
Can I do this job without dropping the K-Member? Is there anything I should have them inspect when I drop these heads off at the machine shop?
I would maybe try the graphite head gaskets, they seal up real good. Though they leave a hell of mess if you ever pull the heads again.
Personally would go with factory new head bolts and stage 8 for the headers. If you go ARP use only their lube.
I would use ARP thread chasers to clean those threads for the heads:
ARP M11 X 2.0 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0011
ARP M8 X 1.25 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0001
Cleaning the deck surface and chasing those thread bores is probably the most critical step for this! Take your time, if do it wrong, you do it long!
You will need a 1/2" torque wrench, can rent one from Autozone etc. I believe the head bolts require 15MM, would get one regular and semi-deep. Other various wrenches and sockets will be needed.
You should not need to drop the k-member, though it would easy as hell with the motor out the car
Junkman honestly has one of the best write-ups I have ever seen, just read this thread.
Junkman DIY Thread
Personally would go with factory new head bolts and stage 8 for the headers. If you go ARP use only their lube.
I would use ARP thread chasers to clean those threads for the heads:
ARP M11 X 2.0 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0011
ARP M8 X 1.25 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0001
Cleaning the deck surface and chasing those thread bores is probably the most critical step for this! Take your time, if do it wrong, you do it long!
You will need a 1/2" torque wrench, can rent one from Autozone etc. I believe the head bolts require 15MM, would get one regular and semi-deep. Other various wrenches and sockets will be needed.
You should not need to drop the k-member, though it would easy as hell with the motor out the car
Junkman honestly has one of the best write-ups I have ever seen, just read this thread.
Junkman DIY Thread
I would maybe try the graphite head gaskets, they seal up real good. Though they leave a hell of mess if you ever pull the heads again.
Personally would go with factory new head bolts and stage 8 for the headers. If you go ARP use only their lube.
I would use ARP thread chasers to clean those threads for the heads:
ARP M11 X 2.0 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0011
ARP M8 X 1.25 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0001
Cleaning the deck surface and chasing those thread bores is probably the most critical step for this! Take your time, if do it wrong, you do it long!
You will need a 1/2" torque wrench, can rent one from Autozone etc. I believe the head bolts require 15MM, would get one regular and semi-deep. Other various wrenches and sockets will be needed.
You should not need to drop the k-member, though it would easy as hell with the motor out the car
Junkman honestly has one of the best write-ups I have ever seen, just read this thread.
Junkman DIY Thread
Personally would go with factory new head bolts and stage 8 for the headers. If you go ARP use only their lube.
I would use ARP thread chasers to clean those threads for the heads:
ARP M11 X 2.0 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0011
ARP M8 X 1.25 Thread Chaser Part # 912-0001
Cleaning the deck surface and chasing those thread bores is probably the most critical step for this! Take your time, if do it wrong, you do it long!
You will need a 1/2" torque wrench, can rent one from Autozone etc. I believe the head bolts require 15MM, would get one regular and semi-deep. Other various wrenches and sockets will be needed.
You should not need to drop the k-member, though it would easy as hell with the motor out the car
Junkman honestly has one of the best write-ups I have ever seen, just read this thread.
Junkman DIY Thread
Also is there any firm evidence that GM used graphite gaskets from the factory on 862 heads? my shop doesn't believe me...
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All heads with the notch used graphite gaskets.
We stock the graphite gaskets.
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853s had them, early model 706/862 heads had them as well.
yep spot on...to the OP, these guys are great to deal with.
Thanks for the heads up, its just I need something that will show the shop that they screwed up my motor (As they want me to pay for labor) - Although I'm probably not going to take it back to them after this it just aggregates me...maybe ask for a refund.
I personally would not take it back and give them another chance at ******* you. Unless you are prepared to take them to small claims, probably not going to see a dime out of them either...Just let them know you will out them on LS1tech and other boards as a shop to stay away from....
