Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

See above, post 16.

RockinWs6

Just keep in mind the factory seals are notorious for leaking even with the intake tightened properly. Best solution is seal the cowling, test it with a water hose and if possible replace the intake gaskets with Felpros. The factory gaskets are sheet.

Enjoy knowing your starter aint gonna break off or block crack rod break etc. Plus the fact if it doesn't completely break it the 1st time it happens it weakens and can do hidden damage that bites yer azz later.

1997trans-am

iTrader: (2)

I never would have even thought about this as being a possibility.

Thanks for posting. I will go check my cowl for leaks too.

my406cid

Check to see if you have an injector leaking fuel slowly. This will also cause a hydraulic cylinder lock and cause a no crank no start.. hook a fuel gage to fuel rail and pull all the plus out. After a couple days see which cyl has fuel in.

HerHawk

157K on odom. No, blemishes on the valve cover, passenger side.

I have a video of it, but not sure how to actually post it. Hold on, I'll try to send a link.

HerHawk

I would like to add that we did not allow the motor to start, just turning it over.



With valve cover off.

omar2guy

The inside of the valve cover doesn't show any wear as if the rockers might of back off some and causing contact with the valve cover?

HerHawk

There is no signs of wear.

Anyone stumped now? I know we are!
Car sounded great after the valve cover was removed.

RockinWs6

Usually fuel is thin enough to blow past the rings unless its a huge amount. I've already had PCM's that failed and tuned the injectors on full tilt that customers started without damage. Water on the other hand is very dense and will break things into pieces quickly.

RockinWs6

You need to investigate closer, something is broken or loose or fell off as the valve cover was removed etc. Get creative and find it.

pferris

iTrader: (2)

Im no expert, but im fairly sure if water could get into the motor, and enough to cause problems through the intake gasket, you would have a massive vacuum leak.....

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

HerHawk:

From your first post, you had the problem (this noise) changed the starter (it was cracked) and then it was OK-you drove the car a few days.

Then the noise came back.

It sounds to me that this noise comes and goes randomly.

Auto or stick car? Auto car, it may have a cracked flex plate.

Curious, where in LI were you from?

my406cid

The old vortec 30 with the pop pets style injection tor were famous for this type of failure. With the same result: hydrolock

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

You could hold the rocker cover in place by hand and crank the engine. If anything is hitting the cover, you'll feel it being pushed off the head against your hand.

HerHawk

Paul,
I am originally from Holbrook, St. James area. I graduated from Sachem. My husband is from Kings Park. ;-)

The car, Firehawk is an automatic.

Yes, The very first time it made that clunking noise we brought it to the shop, the mechanics said the starter had broke away off the bolts.
New starter was replaced and the flex plate and flywheel are in great shape. I saw portions of the flywheel, and no teeth were broken.
Brought the car home, ran fabulous, then it sat for two days, then noise came back.

stoning_volcom

iTrader: (6)

No way this is correct. If that was the case they would be complaing about a car that barely run and you would here the vaccum leak. NO WAY WATER GETS PAST THE INTAKE GASKETS.

Converter bolt? check to see if they are all there.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

Nice. I'm from Bellerose Queens, spitting distance from the Nassau border. I occasionally go to Captree/OBI.

I thought about the flex plate because sometimes damage to it is at the hub making it hard to see unless it's removed. The sound it makes could come and go as the torque converter moves in & out of the pump.

Did you try the thing with holding the valve cover in place by hand?

The fact that the sound comes & goes is what has me stumped. If it was an engine bearing, the sound would never go away.

HerHawk

Haven't gone outside yet to check the valve cover. It's FREEZING here in NC. LOL
My husband was born in Queens NY.

He just bought a compression tester, so I think he will do that too once it warms up a bit.

Thanks so much for all your inputs.

Let me ask you something,
if it was a bad valve or piston or ring or something, wouldn't it have still made the sound without the valve cover on?

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

A timing chain can stretch and "slap" against the cover or block. It doesn't really sound like that's the problem but it is a thought.

Frequently when a repair is made it temporarily moves or changes something affecting the problem then after a while it comes back.

I agree with Paul Bell that you should check the flew plate. If it was turned by hand to inspect it that could have taken it out of contact with what ever it was hitting the with driving it moved back.

One last suggestion, try to find a good reputable shop that knows LS engines. A shop might be great on mant things but if they don't know LS engines they can get lost.

Good luck, lets us know what you discover.

1997trans-am

iTrader: (2)

In for the results.