So I'm about a week away from first start up

I've been researching engine break in and it seems "deceleration against engine compression" after some good 1/2 - 3/4 throttle runs is what is going to really help the rings seal good..

My question is how do you accomplish "engine braking" and let it decelerate on its own while being an automatic?

Just keep it in low gear and floor it and take your foot off the pedal till you bring rpms down? Or until you bring the car speed down..

Reason I ask is because rpms drop quickly but car speed takes a minute..

 

Probably something you can do by locking up the converter.

 

So as long as the converter is locked and I take my foot off the pedal after acceleration then I'm "engine braking" properly.. And creating enough vaccum to help the rings seal?

I only get one shot at this and want it right lol

 

Yeah, when you lock up the converter it basically makes it a solid coupling, like a manual trans with the clutch engaged. I've never done it or seen it done this way, so I don't know how feasible it actually is, but I would think it could work.

 

it will be better to put some load on the engine...
dont be afraid to really put your foot into it...
WOT, 3rd gear, long pulls, ...do it in Manual 3rd, not in Drive...
theres no engine braking with the standard Drive mode...period

you want as much WOT for as long as possible..

the deceleration is more to pull the crap off the piston walls...theres not much ring sealing going on from that...its the Higher RPM and High Cylinder pressures of higher gears that gets the seal done..

you really only have 20-30 miles at the MAX to get a great seal...

 

You guys need to take a deep breath and step away from the keyboard for minute.

What happens when you have 2nd or 3rd gear selected in your auto, you rev it up to 3500 rpm or so, and you take your foot off the gas? the car slows down immediately and much quicker than if in neutral.

What happens if you are cuising along at 3000 rpm in 4th gear and you downshift into 3rd......again with your auto? Engine rpm increases and the car immediately slows quickly.

Engine braking has occurred.

The converter doesn't have to be locked for this to happen. My old dragster had a 5500 converter in it and I mistakenly put it into low gear one night at 155 mph. It slowed immediately and no parachute was needed.

 

mechanical friction and engine braking are not the same thing....
depending on the transmission, you will slow down when you down shift, but not get engine braking...its because of the mechanical gearing change and the sudden change in fluid speed....

some Automatics will do engine braking...
the 4l60 will only do engine braking (via the overrun clutch in the transmission) is only available when the manual valve is in position D3, D2, D1

you have to be shifting manually into each gear to get the engine braking in a 4l60...
you cant get it in Normal Drive mode with a 4th gear.

 

I believe I stated if you are in direct or lower and you downshift, you will get engine braking.........You do not have to have the converter locked.....

 

Yea your right.. I read that mototune thread you posted from awhile back..

I was mainly worried about doing engine braking properly..

Just wanted to clarify that when you decelerate do you bring the car to a stop or till rpms drop to below 1k