slyws6

You guys are correct that the bigger motor brings bigger expenses with it however my current setup consists of PP Stage 3 LS6 heads, 230/236 .592/.578 114lsa +2 cam, ported ls6 intake and every other bolt on you can get for the ls1, oh and I would venture to say that I have one of the free'est flowing exhaust systems you will find on an LS1, 3in mandrel bent true duals all the way out the back. So really all I'm looking at to support the new engine is possibly a bigger cam and a fuel system. I have HPTuners so that's not a big deal. What else do I need? I like the idea of the iron block because of the extra strength but how much extra strength does it provide if I do decide to go with a turbo setup and a lot of boost? Thanks for the input.

-Sly

slyws6

Oh ya and for those asking the piston is cocked in the cylinder I'm guessing that I broke/bent a rod and it cocked the piston in the cylinder then shoved it into the wall and it locked in the cylinder and the rod cracked it in 4 pieces.

-Sly

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

What shape is the head in on that side? Looks like the piston smacked it good.

slyws6

The heads in great shape, going to send it back to Patriot to have them check it out and make sure it didn't damage the valve guide and going to have them replace the valves in that cylinder as well.

-Sly

Ben R

The stock LS1 crank is good for gobs and gobs of power.

Derty uses a stock crank in his 382 all-bore motor and I personally watched him run consistant 9.50's at the Thunder Shootout last November.

Big Mike from Cartek used a stock crank in his record-setting stock cubic inch car. He was making 700 RWHP and who knows how much torque.

Building a stock cubic inch motor isn't very expensive either. Rods and pistons are going to run you about $1,200, Rings and Bearings about $180, and about $200 for machine work. The best part about a stock cubic inch motor is that he can utilize the same heads/cams/bolt-on's he has now.

Just my opinion...

slyws6

Would it be beneficial to use the 6.0L iron block, stepping up the cubic inches won't make too much of a difference when talking about going from 346-370 considering the extra 100lbs. I'm wanting the reliability of 1000hp roughly, will the aluminum block handle this or do you think I should go with the iron block? Opinions...

-Sly

Also I'm guessing the 382 is a 370 bored what .060 over??

Brian2001SS

iTrader: (1)

Must be a tough decision Sly. Gobs of hp with this setup, or Gobs of hp with that setup.

But then again, it ain't free.

I like the Stroker idea. Just my .02

I may want your cam now. Think about that in the future. Ya never have enough HP . This adddiction is worse than drugs, and sometimes more expensive.

Lady Redhawk

iTrader: (6)

It must be something in the mountain air around here, everyone I know is catching it!! Thing is, I think dope is a lot cheaper.

Ben R

I wouldn't even bother with the Iron block. I would stick to a sleeved Aluminum block.

Derty's 382 all-bore motor is created when one re-sleeves an Aluminum LS1 block to 4.100 inches, and then uses the stock stroke length of 3.622 inches.

Cheap, Fast, Reliable. Pick 2. That's pretty much the way this goes. If you want to build the most reliable setup possible, you better break out the old wallet, because by the time buying the best of the best in terms of parts, you still have to pay for labor.

slyws6

I don't see why you can't take the 6.0L block and bore it .060 to achieve the 382ci and have the durability of the iron block with boost. Labor isn't a factor I do all the work myself just as IF I go the turbo route I will be building my own turbo kit, I have a friend of a friend here in town that works for borg warner and he told me in the past that he could hook me up with a turbo or two for a cheap price just to let him know, it's just a matter of getting ahold of him right now.

-Sly

Mike K.

Man with turbos tuned right you can make an fbody fly even on the 346. Look at harlans setup.

Ben R

I'm not 100% sure but I'm not sure you can bore the stock sleeve out that far without re-sleeving the motor.

I could be wrong though, I'm not very acquainted with the 6.0L motor.

ATXCAMAROGUY

iTrader: (4)

6.0 is iron and it doesn't have sleeves

Ben R

Told you I was new to this 6.0L stuff.

<------Me.

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

Some 6.0 blocks cannot be safely bored .060 over. The cylinder walls become too thin with some. You have to check your block before boring it that much. Iron blocks also weigh about 100lbs more. It'll only be a matter of time before the aluminum 6.0L LS2 bare block is affordable.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

An iron block bored to 4.060 gets you a 375ci with stock stroke. However that would be a bad idea if you are going big boost. An .030 over is as much as I would do for a turbo, and even then I would sonic check the block and offset bore to keep max wall thickness. A forged 347 might be better for the track with the lower weight. With the turbo you would still be lighter than a iron block.