Oil Cooler Adapter Question
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Oil Cooler Adapter Question After realizing what I may have done, I have a knot in my stomach while searching for this answer....
I installed an oil cooler adapter to my LQ4/LS3 hybrid similar to this one:
http://www.improvedracing.com/cooler...ines-p-68.html.
Someone recommended to me that on first start up "you don't want to have to wait for the oil to fill a cooler also - cap the adapter and the plumb the cooler after your break-in". So on went two 8AN caps.
Well I've been trying to fire my new motor but I am running into computer issues, but that is another story. I have cranked my motor probably 20 times trying to trouble shoot coil/ignition issues. I have not seen oil pressure on my Autometer electric gauge, but figured it was because of the low cranking rpm.
I am think that by capping the oil cooler adapter I have block oil flow!!!!
The adapter says "in" and "out" so it really needs to be looped, not capped - right?
I looked up the LS oil flow diagram and the adapter bolts to where the oil bypass would go. So the bypass allows oil to still flow if the filter becomes blocked BUT will the filter still flow if the bypass is blocked (because that is pretty much what I did)?
This is such a bone-headed, amateur move. Can someone please verify or deny my thinking here.
I think new crank and rod bearings are going to be on order.
I installed an oil cooler adapter to my LQ4/LS3 hybrid similar to this one:
http://www.improvedracing.com/cooler...ines-p-68.html.
Someone recommended to me that on first start up "you don't want to have to wait for the oil to fill a cooler also - cap the adapter and the plumb the cooler after your break-in". So on went two 8AN caps.
Well I've been trying to fire my new motor but I am running into computer issues, but that is another story. I have cranked my motor probably 20 times trying to trouble shoot coil/ignition issues. I have not seen oil pressure on my Autometer electric gauge, but figured it was because of the low cranking rpm.
I am think that by capping the oil cooler adapter I have block oil flow!!!!
The adapter says "in" and "out" so it really needs to be looped, not capped - right?
I looked up the LS oil flow diagram and the adapter bolts to where the oil bypass would go. So the bypass allows oil to still flow if the filter becomes blocked BUT will the filter still flow if the bypass is blocked (because that is pretty much what I did)?
This is such a bone-headed, amateur move. Can someone please verify or deny my thinking here.
I think new crank and rod bearings are going to be on order.
The bypass is where all the oil that doesnt get filtered flows (which is most of it. Capping it will restrict the engine oil flow, but not completely - certainly not at cranking speeds. I wouldn't worry too much about it, just loop it or put a stock bypass on until you get the adapter plumbed.
TECH Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
loop a piece of oil line between the two ports away from hot parts like headers etc. and you should be fine initial start up you have no oil in your heads also, you should be fine since it's not firing you don't have heat in the mix. check your electrical connections carefully. wiring is critical to the function of our engines. people often overlook that point. simple way of looking at wiring is: it's ether on or off . check ALL your engine grounds!!
Complete the installation of the lines to and from the oil cooler. If you're concerned about the two or three seconds it takes for the lines & cooler to bleed out the air, crank the engine with the fuel fuse pulled. Normal cranking will cause the oil to circulate enough to bleed the lines & cooler.
Whoever told you this was an issue and to cap the adapter lines was incorrect.
The same happens when you change the oil-the filter takes a second or two to fill. Typical cold oil start up pressures is around 60 PSI. The start up circulation is pretty quick.
Get the engine running before you scare yourself into thinking damage is done.
Whoever told you this was an issue and to cap the adapter lines was incorrect.
The same happens when you change the oil-the filter takes a second or two to fill. Typical cold oil start up pressures is around 60 PSI. The start up circulation is pretty quick.
Get the engine running before you scare yourself into thinking damage is done.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Thanks everyone for your responses. I know I probably didn't damage anything but just to be safe I am going to drop the pan and pull off a rod cap or two for inspection, just to be safe.
A very experienced engine builder I spoke with said "you have to be honest with yourself and think about how much you cranked this motor with no oil circulating in it. If you had spun it with no plugs in it for priming purposes that's one thing, but when you plug that hole and the cylinder sees compression, now the rod is pressing hard on the crank journal"
I figure it's a lot cheaper for a new set of bearings now (if it needs it) rather than a tear down and rebuild in the worst case scenario down the road.
It just sucks that I was getting so close to finishing this project and now I've taken a step backwards. I'm totally annoyed with myself.
A very experienced engine builder I spoke with said "you have to be honest with yourself and think about how much you cranked this motor with no oil circulating in it. If you had spun it with no plugs in it for priming purposes that's one thing, but when you plug that hole and the cylinder sees compression, now the rod is pressing hard on the crank journal"
I figure it's a lot cheaper for a new set of bearings now (if it needs it) rather than a tear down and rebuild in the worst case scenario down the road.
It just sucks that I was getting so close to finishing this project and now I've taken a step backwards. I'm totally annoyed with myself.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Paul, I'm trying what you said. I'm going to loop the adapter and then see if I get oil pressure (which I'm sure I will). Then, after the initial run I'm taking the filter to engine shop for them to inspect.
Thanks
Thanks
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Long Island, NY
Well, things look good so far. I plumbed the cooler and saw oil flow but gauge still wasn't showing pressure when cranking.
So I unscrewed sending unit and tested it with compressed air. It worked - ???
When I reinstalled it gauge was now showing 40 psi when cranking - like it was stuck or something previously.
Got the car started and ran for 20min - temp and oil pressure all good with ecu going into learn mode (Holley HP).
Now for the engine shop to check the filter - I'm hoping all will be good.
So I unscrewed sending unit and tested it with compressed air. It worked - ???
When I reinstalled it gauge was now showing 40 psi when cranking - like it was stuck or something previously.
Got the car started and ran for 20min - temp and oil pressure all good with ecu going into learn mode (Holley HP).
Now for the engine shop to check the filter - I'm hoping all will be good.
