blk~2000~Z28

Can someone please give me a synopsis for removing and installing a double roller timing chain, more specifically the crank gear. I was tired when I was installing the oil pump and I didn't know exactly what was involved so I just reinstalled the stock chain instead of upgrading. Now I am going to remove the oil pump again B/C I read I need to get a new O-ring (didn't know that). I am either just retarded or I was just too tired but I couldn't see how to get it off other than using the pulley pullers again, which are pretty banged up after the balancer removal. After that I would have had to install the double roller, again never done this before, so I said f-it and put the stocker back on so I could get this project over with. Please give me the easiest way, b/c I hate doing something the long way if it can be shortened.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

convert the 3 arm pulley to 2 arms, attach to crank sprocket and gently pull off, install the new sprocket as far as you can and then fit the old sprocket over and gently tap with a hammer until it seats against the crank.

blk~2000~Z28

OK, what exactly do you mean seat against the crank? Will there come a point that the gear will not go any further, like hitting a lip? I am sure I will find out after I get the old one off, I am just curios right now though. Also is it a pain in the A$$ like the balancer or is it fairly easy? The pulley puller threads as well as the tip got pretty chewed up during the balancer removal and I do not know how long it will last.
Thanks for your help, this has been the only description that I have found.

P Mack

iTrader: (6)

I used a 2 arm puller to get it off. It comes off pretty easy, but it's hard to keep the puller arms on the sprocket. Since the teeth on the back of the stock crank sprocket are kind of angled forward, my puller kept slipping off when we would tighten it. We got some big *** channel locks to hold the puller arms together so they wouldn't slip off. Also, don't install the new crank sprocket too far or the chain won't fit on it right. Just tap it lightly on with a hammer and the old sprocket until it stops moving, don't force it. Also there are two dots on the new crank sprocket. One is just to show you which keyway to use if you're installing the cam straight up. The other one on the teeth is the one you line up with the dot on the cam gear.

Ferocity02

iTrader: (60)

I just used my 3-arm puller that I used on the pulley. Worked fine for me.

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

Screw the 2 arm crap. Use a good 3 arm. Get yourself a BIG allen head cap screw and put a couple of large flat washer on it. Stick the screw in where you just removed the crank bolt. You did use a chain wrench to keep the crank from turning while removing the crank bolt, right? I thought so. Your pullers threaded rod bucks up against the allen head cap screw and the allen head cap screw pushes against the crank. This not only saves the crank snout threads, but the puller rod threds as well. You use this method to get your ASP pulley off (you do have an ASP pulley, right?) as well as the oil pump/cam drive sprocket. The shims for the oil pump on the double chain move the pump 3mm forward which makes getting the pickup tube into the pump port difficult as the pickup tube has not moved forward a like 3mm. You can take the pump cover off and remove the DRIVE and DRIVEN gears to allow you wriggle the pump body around enough to get the pickup tube into the pump input port. The helps a lot if your having difficult getting the pickup tube into the pump. You did install a new "O" ring, right? Of course the shims have NOT been installed at the point. Once you get the tube in and get the tube bolt started you put the gears back(DOT on gear faces outward)and the cover. Be sure to orient the shim on the pump output port side correctly and then bolt down the pump and tighten the remaining fasteners. Oh, if your using standard timing any forgot to set the sprockets up DOT to DOT you can take everything apart and start over again.