ok guys i have got a new engine (less than 1k miles) took it to the track and once i got home i decided to change the oil as i like to do after racing. Thats when i noticed that the oil looked a bit milky and the catch can had some water in it and the oil fill cap looked milky too. Drained out all the oil, put fresh castrol 10-30 in it. Fired it off and 38# op at cold idle. No blowby and no white smoke coming from the exhaust either, just the regular steam/condensate from a cold engine (its also 40something degrees outside). Doesn't have the sweet coolant burning smell either. Checked for bubbles in the radiator with the thermostat open and engine warm. None. Car idles fine, but i think i may have heard a small backfire? Im not sure what course of action to take on this. Everyone i have talked to said to just drain oil and keep an eye on it given the weird set of symptoms on this one. Any feedback would be appreciated.

 

Water gets into every engine to some degree, that's why we warm engines up and let the water burn off..

You can do a leak down test and that should expose a problem..

Also have you checked the coolant level, if you are missing any it will be very low

 

Pressure test the coolant system.

I think you can rent the tool to do it at autozone.

Brad

 

Not missing any coolant that I can tell. Level is right where it always was.

Ditto will rent one of those.

 

if it was cold enough ,or there was a lot of moisture in the air ,there will be some water condensation in the oil .especially if you were racing it .

 

Interesting point there. The night I raced it it was very cold and foggy, only got 3 passes and they shut down the track. PS I made one pass on nitrous that night, glanced at my AF during the pass and saw it at 12-13 the whole time. Anyways, since then we have had a spell of cold weather and I try to start the car few times a week to keep battery charged and stuff. can water get into the system that way as well?

 

Even with no smoke and/or air coming up in the radiator?

 

Condensation can make the fill cap build a whiteish sludge as well as inside rocker covers.
Milky oil in the pan is a different thing altogether.....means head gasket, water from cracked head or elsewhere getting into the oil.
This won't fix itself...Hopefully it is just a gasket

 

Merely starting it and letting it run/revving it for a few minutes doesn't even
come close to getting hot enough to burn off the condensation. The engine
needs to be loaded/driven (worked) to get good and hot. Trust your instincts,
head gasket or cracked anything would smoke while running and smell.
Curious if you have a cold thermostat in there ????

 

W/ the AFR at those levels, you may have lifted a head just enuf to allow some H2o into the cyl[s], but not caused a blown gasket..

 

After a winter of my car sitting with starting it up a once in a while when I went to change the oil it came out extremely milk chocolate looking. I'd say that was from the few start ups and not long enough running. I changed the oil and gave the motor hell right after that and nothing broke knock on wood. Good thread though solves my milky oil issue.

 

Thanks for that tip man, after draining the oil and hearing all this condensation talk im feeling as though i need to drive it and get it warmed up and see what it looks like after i load it up as you mentioned. Have a feeling increased pressure from nitrous maybe have forced a bit of water in the oil.
Yes i do have a cold thermo in there and have had a hard time keeping this engine cool since the beginning, BUT im one of those guys that wanted to see how far i can push a stock cube ls1 and did a full out build to do just that. Everything is new and top shelf though.

You maybe right on that one sir, i have a friend who sprayed so much nitorus on an old ford 302 that it would visibly leak coolant after a 250hp pass and then go away after it cooled.. His daughter drives it around town to this day. Back on subject tho i was only in it on a 100 hit with torco in the tank and race gas in the cell for the nitrous. Also pulled timing out of the tune with my progressive controller so i think i did everything possible to be safe on the engine.