Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Anyone have pointers on assembly?

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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 07:33 PM
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Default Anyone have pointers on assembly?

So, I've been assembling my lq4. And fortunately I caught myself slipping up. I wanted to make sure this type of thing doesn't happen again. I have a lot of money into this build and don't want to waste it because I missed something stupid. So the slip up I caught was in the oil/water galley plugs.
none of them were in it. I figured I could do it any time, but there is the "dumbbell" plug that goes inside the rear cover. So far, I have all the pistons in oil pan on and heads bolted down
I used all ARP Main studs, connecting rod bolts, and head bolts. Commetic head gaskets. I have ordered the galley plugs.
my heads were milled roughly .0625 I used a .075 head gasket and retarded the cam 2 degrees. And also shaved a relief in the piston.

Is there any insight you guys have, anything that is special with assembling these motors?


Here's my motor specs what I can think of at least.
Brand new 6.0 Block Freshly cleaned and resurfaced because it sat for 6 years
317 Heads Ported and milled .0625
Comp cam dual spring valve springs
Ferra Racing valves
PRW full roller rocker aluminum rockers
Lunati cam # 60516 219/223 .625 .625 lift
Commetic head gaskets
GMPP main bearings
GMPP lifters
IDK what brand pushrods (can't remember)
6.0 Crank
brand new LQ4 pistons and connecting rods
ARP main studs
ARP connecting rod bolts
Melling oil Pump Stander pressure and volume
Edelbrock carb intake #7118
Holley 770 street avenger Elec. choke

Thanks guys, Stuart

Last edited by goldta78; Jan 16, 2014 at 07:42 PM.
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Old Jan 14, 2014 | 07:47 PM
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was the mains bored or honed with the studs in place ? all the engine builders I have listened to ,say studs distort the main crank bores .what did the head chambers cc after milling them ? you mite have a alignment problem with the intake and head ports .why such a thick head gasket ?
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Old Jan 15, 2014 | 08:14 AM
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I'm SLOWLY assembling my LS rebuild.

Did you check/measure all the bearings/clearances as you assembled it? I've got pages and pages of measurements and clearance calculations?

Piston ring gap locations? They're not all lined up, correct? (They better not be!)

Plenty of Assembly lube as well.

You have the cam/lifters in, correct? (You have to have those in before you put the heads on).

Just a short quick list as I'm working on my first cup of coffee.
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 97FormulaWS-6
I'm SLOWLY assembling my LS rebuild.

Did you check/measure all the bearings/clearances as you assembled it? I've got pages and pages of measurements and clearance calculations?

Piston ring gap locations? They're not all lined up, correct? (They better not be!)

Plenty of Assembly lube as well.

You have the cam/lifters in, correct? (You have to have those in before you put the heads on).

Just a short quick list as I'm working on my first cup of coffee.
I didnt check the bearing clearances as I had a shop put the crankshaft in. It was the same shop that put the ARP main studs in as well as the line hone.
I staggered each ring Like the haynes manual instructed.
I've been using lots of assembly lube and oil on everything.

The only clearance I had an issue with was the Piston to Valve clearance. But that should be taken care of now.
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Old Jan 16, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by garygnu
was the mains bored or honed with the studs in place ? all the engine builders I have listened to ,say studs distort the main crank bores .what did the head chambers cc after milling them ? you mite have a alignment problem with the intake and head ports .why such a thick head gasket ?
Yes, I had the block line honed when the Studs were installed.

And I had to go with a thicker head gasket because my valves were too close to the pistons. The guy I bought them from (on this forum) Told me they were milled .040 But he lied as they were actually milled .0625

I want to say the combustion chambers came out to be around 62cc but don't quote me on that
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 09:16 AM
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The head gasket is not the place to gain v/p clearance. Your quench is a mile and the comp is very low.

Better to get a set of pistons that have clearance built into them. Run a .040 gasket

The intake fitment should not be a issue.

Tim
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Gray86hatch
The head gasket is not the place to gain v/p clearance. Your quench is a mile and the comp is very low.

Better to get a set of pistons that have clearance built into them. Run a .040 gasket

The intake fitment should not be a issue.

Tim
I didn't just get t a thicker gasket, I also retarded my cam. I just can't do another $1000 for better pistons and rods

According to the compression calculator I used I should still be over 10:1 which is pretty good for a carbuerated motor
and yeah I know it's not the best way. but given how much I have already spent. The head gaskets were my best option at this point. If I had known the heads were milled this much I would not have bought them. I would have had my set of 317's fixed up.

I mean I figure it can't be too bad since the heads were milled .0625 and the gasket is .02 thicker then it is still .040 closer.
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 05:57 PM
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torque everything!!!!
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by rhino200099
torque everything!!!!
Torque to tight. Right?
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by goldta78

Torque to tight. Right?
No to the torque spec listed for that particular bolt
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Old Jan 17, 2014 | 09:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Burken01
No to the torque spec listed for that particular bolt
I know, I was just being facetious. Thats is not the kind of advice I was looking for. I am smart enough to assemble an engine. I'm looking more for things thats are out of the ordinary with LS type motors
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Old Apr 6, 2014 | 07:28 PM
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Well guys thanks for the help. Here's the first startup. or well the 3rd. all startups combined were less than 3 minutes added together

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