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Pushing Ls6 !

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Old 01-25-2014, 10:10 AM
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Default Pushing Ls6 !

So I've gathered most of the parts for my swap (G35 Coupe LS Swap).
I'm considering pushing it a little bit farther by adding a cam.

Currently I have an ls6 out of an 05 cts-v, t56 with tick stage 2 rebuild with spec 4 clutch, fast 102 ported by vengeance racing with 102 cable driven TB, 46 lbs injects with fast fuel rails, gratinelli spark wires with the upgraded spark plugs, truck coilpacks, CJM Stage 0 fuel return. Koyo 36 Rad. Matching CAI will be added as well as long tube headers as part of the swap kit. An experienced tuner has already been chosen. The whole car is already modded to take the power (brembos brakes, ss cables, street/track pads, coilovers, sway bars, volk racing 19s 9.5/10.5 rears)

The plan is to keep it as a DD as possible, so street driveability is a must. However most of the driving is highway, so I get to step on it quite a bit. My main goal is useable torque over peak hp.

I would prefer to add just a cam and not change heads since the ls6 heads are already an improvement over the LS1s, as well as a lot of money has been spent in all of the parts already and the mod fund is starting to run low

I have read good things about the VRX3, Tick Performance Street Heat Stage 2, Tick Performance SNS torqueMAX Stage 1.What are the other ones that I should be looking at?
With all of my mods and goals in mind, could you guys help me with picking the right cam for me?

Also for the more seasoned guys, any ideas what that setup+mods will do approx. on a dyno before and after cam?

Thanks!!!

Last edited by LS6G35.Swap; 01-25-2014 at 10:18 AM.
Old 01-25-2014, 10:51 AM
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Call Martin at Tick Performance. He does custom spec cams. For a build like yours I'm sure hell spend time to make sure you get everything you like. Its only $20 more than an off the shelf grind. I'd also call/email Brian Tooley.


But for your goals you'll want a can with lobes on the milder side. Aggressive lobes like the LSK tear up the valvetrain, and need to be set up 100% properly or else you can do damage to the engine. I'd stick with something like an LSL/XE combo, the LSL lobes have fast ramps but are designed with durability in mind. The XE lobes are pretty slow and easy on things.

What do you expect the car to weight with you in it? Rear gear ratio? Ever taking it to the track? What do you want to spin the engine to?


Also, I put very little thought into dyno numbers unless its before or after type of results. The same exact setup can differ 20 whp dyno to dyno. Just make sure valve events are what you need, and keep in mind what you want out of the car. Be realistic to whoever you call. Don't say you want a racecar and regret getting a race cam type of deal.


Some of the smarter members on this board preach to let your heads/intake/exhaust do the work when it comes to making power instead of relying on the cam.

At the very least, you will need valvesprings and pushrods. These prevent valve float at higher rpm, and the stock valve springs aren't able to keep up with aftermarket cams. Do not get aftermarket roller rockers, these add unnecessary weight to the valve train and do way more hurt than harm. Keep stock rockers with a trunion bearing upgrade. These will do perfect with gm cast heads. Some people do lifters but most don't as its not neccesarialy an required upgrade. But you should know ls7 lifters aren't really an upgrade.
Brian tooley springs are great, I've heard nothing but good things about them. Make sure you check what pushrod length you need in order to get the proper pushrod length.





But like I said call martin and he'll get you all set up, possibly with a custom grind if needed. He knows his stuff and has great customer service.

Last edited by DREAMZ28; 01-25-2014 at 11:00 AM.



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