LS6 Build Questions
02-16-2014, 02:58 PM
#21
IMO, if your torn between the SNS TorqueMax Stage II and the POLLUTER V2 you should really consider the SNS TorqueMax Stage III then 
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
02-16-2014, 06:55 PM
#22
You're my boy Blu! Thank you for suggesting that cam because I was really torn between the other two but after hearing/reading up on the SNS TorqueMax Stage 3, wow, I must have it!! Lol. I just hope it has decent drivability. Not looking for stock drivability by all means because my project will be a weekend warrior car but I hope the SNS Stage 3 doesn't surge to bad or choke on itself when trying to drive. Come to think of it, if I do an all out nitrous build, ill get the Polluter V2 since it eats up N20 and the operating rpm range is very high... but as of right now, the SNS Stage 3 is for me.
02-16-2014, 08:08 PM
#23
Hey Nate, welcome to LS1tech.
Interesting project for a 90 Mustang. We require pics.
You're getting some very good advice form experienced members here. You're on the right path doing all this research.
You have the engine apart. Down the road a ways, you'll be thinking "why didn't I do that when I had it out and apart?"
Get with one shop and let them guide you with a package. The stock cast crank is pretty stout but I'd ditch the powdered metal rods and stock pistons. Rods & pistons can be had very reasonably these days-I'd recommend Wisco pistons and their K1 rods. They'll come with the "right" bolts.
This will allow the shop to tell you what compression ratio will work best with their cam & port job.
The FAST 92 intake is kinda pricy. I'd upgrade the throttle body first and the manifold down the line (it's an external bolt-on).
Rocker trunnion bearing upgrade, lifters, gaskets, bearings, pushrods, LS2 timing chain, oil pump, there's a bunch of other parts to consider.
Interesting project for a 90 Mustang. We require pics.
You're getting some very good advice form experienced members here. You're on the right path doing all this research.
You have the engine apart. Down the road a ways, you'll be thinking "why didn't I do that when I had it out and apart?"
Get with one shop and let them guide you with a package. The stock cast crank is pretty stout but I'd ditch the powdered metal rods and stock pistons. Rods & pistons can be had very reasonably these days-I'd recommend Wisco pistons and their K1 rods. They'll come with the "right" bolts.
This will allow the shop to tell you what compression ratio will work best with their cam & port job.
The FAST 92 intake is kinda pricy. I'd upgrade the throttle body first and the manifold down the line (it's an external bolt-on).
Rocker trunnion bearing upgrade, lifters, gaskets, bearings, pushrods, LS2 timing chain, oil pump, there's a bunch of other parts to consider.
02-16-2014, 08:46 PM
#24
Thank you for the input and feed back Paul Bell. As for my project, I do not know if it'll be going into a fox body mustang yet. My username is NateLS1Mustang because I created it before actually purchasing the mustang (the dude sold it to someone else :/) so right now I only have an LS6 torn down lol. I still wouldn't mind dropping it into a fox body mustang but my first choice is an F-Body Camaro, particularly 98-02 SS or Z28. Ill settle for a third gen if I have to though haha.
And yes, there is much help on this forum and many many educated people that I look to for advice. Everyone so far has been extremely helpful with giving me good information. This build will take months to a year but it's never to soon to start planning right? Haha.
As of right now, I do not know if I want to go all out nitrous build or just build the engine for 400+rwhp and throw a 150 shot on top of that with stock rods and pistons. If I go all out nitrous then I will pick up forged rods and pistons to handle a 200-300shot of N2O. No sense in getting forged pistons and rods for only a 150 shot I'm assuming lol so might as well go big with the nitrous if I'm going to go forged. Haven't decided yet but I already pretty much have both game plans written down on paper (all out nitrous build or just 400+rwhp w/ small shot build) along with my goals and a check list for the build.
Ill make a build thread once if got enough work done to actually have a build thread haha. Like I said, it'll be about a years worth of work due to financial reasons so I don't want to start a build thread with barely updating it every few months; that would be boring.
My first step is actually happening tomorrow (hopefully). I will be taking my block, rods, pistons, and heads to Owen's Racing Engines in Pearland Texas to be cleaned up and I'm having the crank regrinded by them as well. Then after that, it'll be time to save up for the cam swap and for porting the heads. If I don't go all out nitrous build then I could assemble the bottom end when I get my pieces back from Owen's but haven't decided if I want to go all out or not. This is my first build ever so it will be a learning experience for sure. I just don't want to be disappointed with my power goals. I hope 400-450rwhp is enough for me lol. I'm coming from a boosted tundra weighing in at 5,200lbs. Although it had power and felt fast, it was still 5,200lbs so it didnt feel as fast as it should have lol.
And yes, there is much help on this forum and many many educated people that I look to for advice. Everyone so far has been extremely helpful with giving me good information. This build will take months to a year but it's never to soon to start planning right? Haha.
As of right now, I do not know if I want to go all out nitrous build or just build the engine for 400+rwhp and throw a 150 shot on top of that with stock rods and pistons. If I go all out nitrous then I will pick up forged rods and pistons to handle a 200-300shot of N2O. No sense in getting forged pistons and rods for only a 150 shot I'm assuming lol so might as well go big with the nitrous if I'm going to go forged. Haven't decided yet but I already pretty much have both game plans written down on paper (all out nitrous build or just 400+rwhp w/ small shot build) along with my goals and a check list for the build.
Ill make a build thread once if got enough work done to actually have a build thread haha. Like I said, it'll be about a years worth of work due to financial reasons so I don't want to start a build thread with barely updating it every few months; that would be boring.
My first step is actually happening tomorrow (hopefully). I will be taking my block, rods, pistons, and heads to Owen's Racing Engines in Pearland Texas to be cleaned up and I'm having the crank regrinded by them as well. Then after that, it'll be time to save up for the cam swap and for porting the heads. If I don't go all out nitrous build then I could assemble the bottom end when I get my pieces back from Owen's but haven't decided if I want to go all out or not. This is my first build ever so it will be a learning experience for sure. I just don't want to be disappointed with my power goals. I hope 400-450rwhp is enough for me lol. I'm coming from a boosted tundra weighing in at 5,200lbs. Although it had power and felt fast, it was still 5,200lbs so it didnt feel as fast as it should have lol.
02-17-2014, 12:47 PM
#25
Okay guys I have another question that I seek advice for. I brought my block, crank, and heads to Owen's Racing Engines to get cleaned up and to get it all checked out (the crank needs regrinding). Anyways, I was asking if they can mill the heads for me so I can achieve 11.0:1 compression ratio (stock is 10.5:1 I believe) and he said they could do it but it might cause clearance issues for piston to valves.. Can somebody elaborate on this for me? If I were to mill/shave the heads to get 11.0:1 CR then what other issues will I be faced with that need to be changed? He also said milling/shaving the heads might cause clearance problems for a cam swap as well... So if I mill/shave my heads to achieve 11.0:1 then will my choice of cam still work? I'd like to use the SNS TorqueMax Stage 3 with 235/243 .62x"/.62x" LSA 111+2. If anyone can elaborate about milling/shaving the heads and what else would need to be done to collaborate with them then it would really help me out! Thanks guys!
EDIT: Did some more research and found that milling te 243 heads .030" down to 61cc, I should be at about 11.0:1. Now this being said, what head gaskets should I run with these and will my cam of choice work, will I have PTV issues?
EDIT: Did some more research and found that milling te 243 heads .030" down to 61cc, I should be at about 11.0:1. Now this being said, what head gaskets should I run with these and will my cam of choice work, will I have PTV issues?
Last edited by NateLS1Mustang; 02-17-2014 at 03:45 PM.
02-18-2014, 08:00 PM
#26
Been looking at cams again.. I'm looking at the TSP 233/239 cam. Anyone running this that can chime in about it? How is it on stock 243s? Will porting the 243s really benefit this cam or could I get away with milling .010" and still benefiting with no porting? I have the money to mill my heads now or I could save up a little longer and just port them. Not to sure on what I want to do.
