What makes a car NOT streetable?
Different cams require different tunes. Re-tune and you should get most of your drivability back. A camshaft change definitely requires a tuning change.
Just as an example, I've seen cams that allowed tremendous amounts of timing in the low range and ones that couldn't tolerate much of any.
I do visit the other board from time to time, but it takes everyone there days to reply. Besides the big boys hang out at LS1Tech
It has its quirks...as gomer said with the bucking with my 2.73 gears its alot more of a problem because im always under 2000rpms cruising...throw in some 4.10's like this cam should have and i dont think id have any of that because I'd always be over that threshold. Other than that as far as "streetable" goes the car is fine, just loud. Driving it out to street race on fri/sat is different than driving to work on monday. And driving it as a weekend toy is somewhere in between.
I do visit the other board from time to time, but it takes everyone there days to reply. Besides the big boys hang out at LS1Tech 
Yeh, Love your car. I'm the only black look alike firehawk (93-97) in midwest city heh. You need to come to a meeting sometime. Love to see the car.
For an M6 car, upgraded clutches can be painful. My Cartek clutch chatters like a motor, squeals on takeoff, and has super heavy pedal prepssure.
Big stalls on A4 cars can make the car less streetable. When you're running a 4400 stall and it takes 3000rpm just to get moving, it gets real old.
The faster cars running drag tires hurt too. DRs hurt cornering ability and (usually) wet ability.
What else? I can't think of any right now.
Dope

I saw the Firehawk on the side of your car so I gave you a nice little rev. I wish I had headers and a nice cam.. Maybe then you could have heard it.
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The spec clutches don't act near that bad after break in.
I've got an Exedy single setup sitting in a box in my room. It's going in in about 3 weeks. I was just using it as an example. Higher pedal pressures, grabbiness, chance of chatter, etc are all factors with aftermarket clutches.
Dope
I saw the Firehawk on the side of your car so I gave you a nice little rev. I wish I had headers and a nice cam.. Maybe then you could have heard it. 
My current set up sounds like it would annoy the **** outta most of you guys, going on the specs.
But it's all in the tune, if you aren't giving your engine enough fuel or too much fuel they are pieces of crap.
I had a 234/238 108 630/630 cam in before the current cam the stall converter was 4600 then.
My current cam 246/248 109 630/630 has the same converter but now it's a 5000 stall.
I drive my car an average of more than 60 miles (100km) a day...at least 5 days a week.
I pull away from the lights nice and easy, a few more revs on a hill or in reverse but nothing too bad.
Having a cam this size is easier in an Auto than a manual as the stall converter takes out the "lumpy loppy" stuff.
It all comes down to compromises and matching your combo.
There is no way this cam would be nice to drive with a tight stall converter plus it wouldn't let the engine get into it's power range.
I even have a full manual valve body, it's fine, just you guys are used to sitting in lounge chairs and driving by remote control.
The surging you guys are talking about is mainly fuel/air ratio problems.
With the overlap from a cam this size if you run a Maf at low engine speed there isn't enough velocity to give the maf an accurate reading for it to meter out the fuel. That is one reason we run our cars on speed density/volumetric efficency. Tunning on a dyno that can hold an engine at defined rpms for periods of time to log what changes are needed so the fuel/air/spark is spot on for every rpm incriment.
So there you go, it's in the tune, attitudes, opinions.
In saying all this, I wouldn't let my wife drive my car..anymore, I did it once it was funny and scary.
I reckon your cam is too big when you can't afford to drive it (which varies from person to person), or you don't have enough vacume to run your brakes.






