Rip LS1... what now?
#1
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Well my LS1 died this morning. Its sounds a little worse than just a turned bearing, like metal smacking metal but anyway. Now that its time for a motor what would be my best option. Its mainly a track car that I do drive to and from the track and take out on weekends occasionally. The old set up was a FAST 102, PRC 215s, MS4, 6 speed, with 430s. Ran 10.9x. How would a 408 do with my heads cam set up? I also have a set of TEA 317s as well. What do you guys think my best option is?
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It all depends on your budget and what you plan on doing with the car. If u don't mind added weight around 70 lbs and iron block would be the cheapest option such as a LQ4 or 9 based engine. I would buy something that fairly easy and compatible with the parts you have.
Go ahead and decide if power adders ie nitrous or forced induction is in your future and build for it.
Go ahead and decide if power adders ie nitrous or forced induction is in your future and build for it.
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I feel your pain brother, as this happended to me as well lol
I went with a 370ci LQ9 from Thompson Motorsports and just threw my HCI back on. This was cheapest route I could find
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#4
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From the sticky on this page:
LS1/2...........106
LS7..............107
RHS..............110
Dart Billet......128
6.0L Iron.......216 (weighed another block and changed this; first block had some weight added in the deck)
LSX..............230
Not a big deal for a drag racer, but if you do have a huge interest in handling, that is going to be a nice chunk of weight on the nose of the car. For me personally, I would do whatever I could to keep it gone.
LS1/2...........106
LS7..............107
RHS..............110
Dart Billet......128
6.0L Iron.......216 (weighed another block and changed this; first block had some weight added in the deck)
LSX..............230
Not a big deal for a drag racer, but if you do have a huge interest in handling, that is going to be a nice chunk of weight on the nose of the car. For me personally, I would do whatever I could to keep it gone.
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http://texas-speed.com/p-588-tsp-408...ort-block.aspx
#6
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Well it wasn't a turned bearing. The number for 4 rod broke in half and busted the block so the LS1 is junk. I do have a 98 block though and Its mainly a track (drag) car that I do street drive. Since my car is geared for rpm I was thinking 370 but I don't want to regret not going bigger while I'm in there. My 346 was making around 490. With a 370 should the car pick up any ET wise over the 346? I know the 408 would open up a hole new realm of better heads and bigger cams but I don't want to do a complete build again and with my heads I don't think I'll be able to really see its true potential. If I build the 370 and something happens to one of my other LS cars I could always throw the 370 in there and start from scratch.
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Well it wasn't a turned bearing. The number for 4 rod broke in half and busted the block so the LS1 is junk. I do have a 98 block though and Its mainly a track (drag) car that I do street drive. Since my car is geared for rpm I was thinking 370 but I don't want to regret not going bigger while I'm in there. My 346 was making around 490. With a 370 should the car pick up any ET wise over the 346? I know the 408 would open up a hole new realm of better heads and bigger cams but I don't want to do a complete build again and with my heads I don't think I'll be able to really see its true potential. If I build the 370 and something happens to one of my other LS cars I could always throw the 370 in there and start from scratch.
If you want your front end weight to stay in the ball park of where it is, put your battery in one of the sides of the trunk compartment and throw the kill switch in an inconspicuous spot.
Im pondering doing the same thing very soon. If I can find an LS2 block I will use it, otherwise I will do an iron block and move the battery to offset a good chunk of weight.