I-H8-RICE

Interesting that this has come up, I'm using the same bearings but I'm having an issue with the ID being wrong, the Id on the bearing is .01 smaller on the bearing than the cam so the cam wont even fit inside the bearing

Edit I'm actually using clevite

SH1814S

RockinWs6

Bizarre, gotta be a reason for this cam bearing sizing differences.

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

Yep, bizarre indeed. My local machinist didn't order any Clevite SH1814S, just another damn set of CH-10s. The other set is still too large. My theory is that these are for the 5.3 cast iron blocks, not the aluminum 5.7s......

I have an order in for some Federal Mogul (aka Sealed Power) 1888M bearings and I'll get them tomorrow morning. I'll measure them when I pick them up to be sure and I'll let y'all know.

Sales3@Texas-Speed

iTrader: (2)

CH-10's are for the 1st gen LS1 blocks and CH-23's are for the LS2, 2nd gen LS1 blocks and iron blocks. You have the correct bearings for your motor. The aluminum motors do take a little more work. You need to lightly sand the inside of the block with 600 grit wet/dry sand sandpaper and also the edges of cam bearing itself to deburr the edges. Make sure that the oiling holes are lined up properly (Very important!) and pound it in. Once it's in slide the cam in. If you fill it drag, and this is common, pull the cam back out and see where it's dragging. You should clearly see this on the cam bearing. You'll then have to take 800 grit wet sand paper and lightly sand the bearing so that the cam will slide through without dragging. It's a bit of a process on an aluminum block, even more so being in the car still. It will just take a little time and patience but you should get it to work.

Lonnie

I-H8-RICE

I'm actually getting ready to pick up a set of the 1888m now everything I've read the 5.7 and 5.3 appear to be the same bearing.. What's weird to be is the size difference in 1&5 but they call for the same bearing.. Called the dealer 160$! For a set F THAT I'll buy a couple sets before that happens

It'llrun

I would think those should be the same set.

If the 1888m doesn't fit, I'd sand it down, but I'd be kinda pissed about it. My only surprise there is any need to order. I'd expect those on the shelf at a parts store like NAPA or O'reilly. Then again, they may simply stock a different brand for that engine.

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

I went to the parts store to pick up the 1888Ms.... They too are too large. I guess some bearing sanding is in my future. This is just ridiculous. You should never have to sand a bearing to "make" it fit.

RezinTexas

you may have to sand the ID as well. Considering the OEM bearings are line honed in the factory, it is really unlikely that DIY'ers like us can make them line up perfectly.

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

I now have another theory. These bearings aren't sold at factory sizes because the manufacturers intend the blocks to get honed again before new bearings are installed. I've been doing some sanding today with some 400 grit wet-dry paper. I have a long way to go until I'm within at least .003".

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

Finally in!!!!!! After a lot of sanding and measuring she's in. I wound up getting the bearing down to 2.3295" & said, **** it, let's see if she'll go in. It did with some persuasion and some patience. I was able to get it within .005" of the original measurement on depth in the block. I grabbed my cam, oiled her up, and she slid right in without any abrasion. I can spin it about 3/4 of a turn by hand.

So for anyone ever needing to do this in the car and on just position #1, it can be done (with the proper tools, patience, & attention to detail).

RezinTexas

nice work

Did you measure the oil clearance?

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

Thanks! I didn't measure it, but Its easy enough to do since I'm waiting to exchange my timing chain for one with a bearing.

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

The clearance between the cam journal and the bearing surface is .004". Is that enough?

RezinTexas

that is good. not too low or too high.

racer8088

No offense but you should never sand down the OD of any bearing to fit. In an iron block you might be alright but there is a certain amount of press for a reason and on the aluminum blocks they get a lot looser housing bore when hot so if you take much press out of the cam bearing it might spin when hot. I've only installed say 5000+ individual cam bearings or maybe a 1000+ sets of cam bearings and never had to sand anything down. I have had to hone the cam tunnel .002 larger on some aftermarket LSX blocks that were too tight from the factory but not an oem block so far in 15 years.

I will agree however that they are a ***** to put in often and it seems like they do have too much press but they still go in with the right tools. The cam bearing tool itself will often screw up the bearings on the edge you're pushing them in on and like the guy from TSP said you may have to deburr them there if that happens which it usually does. I usually use a carbide bearing knife and them some scotchbrite if I have to but that's on a bare block that's gonna be washed later. In an existing assemble engine I'd be wary of a lot of problems with even seeing what you are doing but at least yours is at the front.

Cam bearings aren't too critical as long as they have clearance and are in with the right press and the cam is straight. When I do see cam bearing problems it's usually after "new" ones have been installed FWIW.

RezinTexas

Erik, if he achieved 0.0025" of interference fit, would that be enough for a cam bearing?

racer8088

I am not sure but it would be much better in an iron block than in an aluminum one that's for sure. Also like you said to check the actual oil clearance as well and if the cam spins freely and has .002-.006 it should be fine but I'd sure like all the press they put into that bearing as its usually for a reason.

LS1HIGHLIFE

iTrader: (8)

I appreciate the input gents. 8088, do you think that the new bearings are over sized to compensate for cam bore honing? It only makes sense to do a cam bearing refresh after the motor has been honed and cleaned. In this case, unhoned my 1st bore diameter is 2.326". The new bearings are 2.334-336". Even if the honing process took out .002" that's still .006" of press.

I know I don't have the experience of any engine builder out there, but .006 is an awful lot. With it in there now I can get a .004" feeler gauge between the cam journal and the bearing. I know that's not precise, but it's a good reference.