Joe Lluvia Avila

1989 mustang. im running a 285lr hr13 comp cam in my 5.3 with PRC dual spring rated up to .650 lift and 7.400 comp cam chromoly pushrods. virgin 706 heads. 3200 circle d stall. level 3 4l60e build. 2.5 inch H-pipe with flowmaster 40s dumped before the axle.

I can't seem to get it to idle properly. my tuner says to open the throttle blade to about 5% so that it can idle but then others tell me that the tuner needs to control the idle.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Are you running a cable or DBW throttle?

If DBW, then it's controlled in the tune. If cable operated, then you have to adjust the IAC valve to let in more air.

Joe Lluvia Avila

Correct me if i'm wrong but i was also suggested to move the MAF as far away as possible from the TB. I have it bolted on directly to the TB right now.

redtan

iTrader: (5)

That's true, but wouldn't really affect idle that much. Just create turbulence and make high rpm high throttle tuning harder.

Russ K

iTrader: (1)

That cam has 13* overlap, it's not going to be very driveable. And your 3200 TC is to low, you need a 4000 stall. What's the idle speed at? As it needs to be 950-1000 rpm.

Good luck tuning that one. I took out a 234/242 114 cam that had 10* overlap because I got tired of the low rpm/light throttle surge/fishbite. Since I have a manual trans, it would be less noticeable with a auto trans. I now have a 234/242/117+2 cam that has 4* overlap. The car drives 10x better, still has stupid bottom end, and gained mid range to top end power due to the earlier exhaust valve opening. I like my car again.

Russ Kemp

redtan

iTrader: (5)

Plenty of people have tune bigger cams to be streetable, so that's not it. Just takes a competent tuner and it should run and idle just fine.