Inner valve springs AFU...
next, there is much more valvetrain noise than i remember so i pulled the valve covers off and found that 13 of my inner valve springs grenaded!!! i have quite the project ahead to make sure everything is ok.
question is why though? when i installed everything i made sure i checked installed height and was assured by a respected pp dealer that everything was compatible. i am going to list all parts in my valvetrain and hope that someone smarter than me has an idea.
Cam: 227/234 .616/.614 115 lsa
ls7 lifters
7.425" hardened pushrods
stock rockers
26926 dual springs (only inner springs AFU)
if it was just one spring that broke i wouldnt think too much, but 13!!!??? i thought i had a relatively mild setup, and im trying really hard not to be mad at the wife! lol.
thanks in advance for any ideas guys
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The most common cause of valve spring breakage is binding. The spring coils actually contact each other. Two solid objects trying to occupy the same space at the same time is a bad thing.
When you installed the springs, did you use a micrometer to measure the installed height? Yours should be no less than 1.776" (good year, that).
Did you buy new spring retainers specifically made for those springs?
It's not your wife's fault, don't be mad at her about the valve springs. It's the fault of whoever built the engine. Besides, it's just a car. If it breaks, fix it. That's what we car guys do.
BTW, welcome home.
You say the clutch is shot as well, its entirely possible that its been mechanically over-revved unbeknownst to you. I'd be curious to know what the pistons look like.
Sounds like you didn't you check for correct p rod length. Y/n??
A couple clues:
1. The clutch is shot. Too many hi rpm shifts?
2. Missed some of them, and put the rpms to the moon. [Thus the inners are broken.]
Would be interesting to see what the tops of the pistons look like.
*** uming the springs are in @1.776, [like Bob said], and your cam is @ .614, that's a tite line of .060 clear...A couple missed shifts, and ????
Wifey didn't loan your car to her 16yo cousin, did she??
Last edited by Old Geezer; Mar 28, 2014 at 07:57 AM.
the reason i put the 7.425" pushrods in was bc i had been told by multiple people that it would help with valvetrain noise. when we measured it was slightly over 7.4, and that the extra .020 to .025 would act like a slight preload on the lifters.
the wife assures me that she was the only one driving the car and that she doesnt remember over revving the engine. she did admit to racing a 5th gen on the highway but said once she got a car length on him she let off. so who knows... im trying to find a borescope to check out the pistons. i would rather not tear the heads off again, but ill post pics if i find anything.
as long as everything checks out, i have my eye on a a set of lunati golds that should work well. im thinking i will go with 7.400" pushrods even if its a little noisy.
im sticking with the centerforce df, it always held really well and felt very good.
lastly, what calculators do you guys use for valvetrain geometry?
Also when I checked those retainers on bone stock heads they checked at 1.820", the springs don't coil bind until 1.000"
I would not run dual gold springs, they don't tend to last.
Our kits uses .505" ID, install around 1.780" and coil bind around 1.050" so there's less chance of spring surge.
Also when I checked those retainers on bone stock heads they checked at 1.820", the springs don't coil bind until 1.000"
I would not run dual gold springs, they don't tend to last.
Our kits uses .505" ID, install around 1.780" and coil bind around 1.050" so there's less chance of spring surge.
would you recommend staying with my 7.425 pr or going with 7.400?







