If you had $3500 for a shortblock...
4L60E isn't going to last.
And I realize valvesprings and rotating assemblies aren't the same. But the point is, there is a lot of maintenance you need to do with a built motor. You can't button it up and forget about it. It doesn't work that way.
And the bearings should be fine. It's really the finish hone and ringlands you have to watch.
And I realize valvesprings and rotating assemblies aren't the same. But the point is, there is a lot of maintenance you need to do with a built motor. You can't button it up and forget about it. It doesn't work that way.
And the bearings should be fine. It's really the finish hone and ringlands you have to watch.
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 651
Likes: 10
From: North Carolina
Refresh would include rings and possibly a rehone. Especially if you are running it pretty hard with 2618 pistons. Maybe even bearings depending on what you subjected the motor to. I'd do a compression test and possibly a leakdown test every year or every 6-10k miles and track the motor's health. The rings would be the first sign you need a refresh.
4L60E isn't going to last.
And I realize valvesprings and rotating assemblies aren't the same. But the point is, there is a lot of maintenance you need to do with a built motor. You can't button it up and forget about it. It doesn't work that way.
And the bearings should be fine. It's really the finish hone and ringlands you have to watch.
And I realize valvesprings and rotating assemblies aren't the same. But the point is, there is a lot of maintenance you need to do with a built motor. You can't button it up and forget about it. It doesn't work that way.
And the bearings should be fine. It's really the finish hone and ringlands you have to watch.
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Worst case scenario for how long its going to last? If I drive like a dumbass everywhere I go, I figure a good 5k miles tops, babying it with WOT here and there maybe 15?
And when swapping a 80E in, is it a direct swap? If not what other costs are involved?