lq4, which heads would you run?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: NH
lq4, which heads would you run? As the title states what would you run on this combo to get the best power out of it. I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the PRC Stage 1.0 LS6 CNC Ported Heads with PAC 1518's but I don't want to eff this up. Also, what kind of power can I expect from this n/a? Have dreams of a small procharger down the road but that's awhile away. thanks!
03 Lq4, stock displacement
9.6:1
diamond pistons
eagle rods
stock crank
morel 5206 lifters
brute speed blower cam
Dur @ .050 232 int 240 exh
Lift .595 int .608 exh / 115 LSA
stock rockers with trunion upgrade
Edelbrock victor jr
Holley 750 HP carb
03 Lq4, stock displacement
9.6:1
diamond pistons
eagle rods
stock crank
morel 5206 lifters
brute speed blower cam
Dur @ .050 232 int 240 exh
Lift .595 int .608 exh / 115 LSA
stock rockers with trunion upgrade
Edelbrock victor jr
Holley 750 HP carb
As the title states what would you run on this combo to get the best power out of it. I'm almost ready to pull the trigger on the PRC Stage 1.0 LS6 CNC Ported Heads with PAC 1518's but I don't want to eff this up. Also, what kind of power can I expect from this n/a? Have dreams of a small procharger down the road but that's awhile away. thanks!
03 Lq4, stock displacement
9.6:1
diamond pistons
eagle rods
stock crank
morel 5206 lifters
brute speed blower cam
Dur @ .050 232 int 240 exh
Lift .595 int .608 exh / 115 LSA
stock rockers with trunion upgrade
Edelbrock victor jr
Holley 750 HP carb
03 Lq4, stock displacement
9.6:1
diamond pistons
eagle rods
stock crank
morel 5206 lifters
brute speed blower cam
Dur @ .050 232 int 240 exh
Lift .595 int .608 exh / 115 LSA
stock rockers with trunion upgrade
Edelbrock victor jr
Holley 750 HP carb
into the 10.25-10.5 range depending on the head gasket thickness.Assuming
flat tops of coarse.
The transmission type, converter stall, and rear end all play a role in robbing
power from the hot air pump but 425-440 rear wheel is not at all unrealistic.
Are you already building this with parts you have? If not we can likely get you a better deal. Looks like you are aiming for boost later on? I would not look for that low a CR really. You can use a D1 with 8lbs or so and make killer power at 10:1 and still be safe with a good tune. You can run over that also. The more power you make na the more power you will make on boost, but also the better it will drive around. I mean every SAYS they want a dedicated racecar, but who WOULNDT want to drive it around to the car meets and such on the weekends?
We can get you whatever you need, and we also have some new as cast and cnc ported head options that are very competitive on price and flow numbers.
We can get you whatever you need, and we also have some new as cast and cnc ported head options that are very competitive on price and flow numbers.
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Why would you buy such expensive lifters and pistons then try low budget heads? If you have or can snag a set of 243s then tea or ai can make them shine. I would use the manley 221438 beehive over the Pac 1518. Esp on boost IF you are going to stick with a beehive. They have better rate/pressure and are about the same price from most places.
Also your carb may not like that cam too much. If you havent already bought it, id look at a little different one.
Also your carb may not like that cam too much. If you havent already bought it, id look at a little different one.
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Brett Foote Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: NH
I paid the money for good pistons because I do have intentions of boost, yes people make stupid power on stock bottom arp rod bolted bottom ends but I would be the exception and I know it. I got those lifters because I found a set locally for half price after a guy bailed on his project. I have all the parts listed except for the heads/carb and intake. If you can tell me a proven combo that will work than by all means I'm listening. As I said I do plan to run a procharger down the road , but for the next few years it will remain n/a. And I drive this car everywhere which is exactly why it has the weird stall/ gear combo. It has 4.10s when I bought it
If it were me, I would get the Trick Flow as cast 220s. The carb will be fine. The intake would be better if you use the edelbrock dual plane on that cam. The LSA is a bit wide for a dual plane and a carb. You will still make lots of power. The Trick flows run about $1800 or so and out of the box they are stellar. They have a spring on them that will handle that cam.
It would make quite a bit more power than a run of the mill ported 243 head, and have plenty of sturdiness for the supercharger later. Run 10:1 or a tad more and have fun either way.
The stall does seem a tad high but that is usually a matter of personal preference. If it does not have a lockup it really doesnt matter anyway in that regard.
What is your PB now?
It would make quite a bit more power than a run of the mill ported 243 head, and have plenty of sturdiness for the supercharger later. Run 10:1 or a tad more and have fun either way.
The stall does seem a tad high but that is usually a matter of personal preference. If it does not have a lockup it really doesnt matter anyway in that regard.
What is your PB now?
One thing I would suggest is to cam the engine for the application you're currently running.
I have seen some guys get "burned out" when their build didn't make the power they had expected because they were planning for future upgrades.
Normally used cams sell for 250-275 dollars. If you can recoup 250-275 dollars on your old camshaft then that would be a good start towards a new grind. I kind of look at it as you got great use out of a part that helped tie your combo together to be more optimal for 125-150 bucks.
I'd also suggest the single plane if you do plan on forced induction later on as it will provide better distribution under boost. It could be argued that you could change the intake just as easily if not easier than the cam which I would agree with also.
So, that choice is left up to you!
I have seen some guys get "burned out" when their build didn't make the power they had expected because they were planning for future upgrades.
Normally used cams sell for 250-275 dollars. If you can recoup 250-275 dollars on your old camshaft then that would be a good start towards a new grind. I kind of look at it as you got great use out of a part that helped tie your combo together to be more optimal for 125-150 bucks.
I'd also suggest the single plane if you do plan on forced induction later on as it will provide better distribution under boost. It could be argued that you could change the intake just as easily if not easier than the cam which I would agree with also.
So, that choice is left up to you!
One thing I would suggest is to cam the engine for the application you're currently running.
I have seen some guys get "burned out" when their build didn't make the power they had expected because they were planning for future upgrades.
Normally used cams sell for 250-275 dollars. If you can recoup 250-275 dollars on your old camshaft then that would be a good start towards a new grind. I kind of look at it as you got great use out of a part that helped tie your combo together to be more optimal for 125-150 bucks.
I'd also suggest the single plane if you do plan on forced induction later on as it will provide better distribution under boost. It could be argued that you could change the intake just as easily if not easier than the cam which I would agree with also.
So, that choice is left up to you!
I have seen some guys get "burned out" when their build didn't make the power they had expected because they were planning for future upgrades.
Normally used cams sell for 250-275 dollars. If you can recoup 250-275 dollars on your old camshaft then that would be a good start towards a new grind. I kind of look at it as you got great use out of a part that helped tie your combo together to be more optimal for 125-150 bucks.
I'd also suggest the single plane if you do plan on forced induction later on as it will provide better distribution under boost. It could be argued that you could change the intake just as easily if not easier than the cam which I would agree with also.
So, that choice is left up to you!
I am not sure that there would be any distribution issues to speak about with a relatively small amount of boost esp with that camshaft. And changing a cam normally costs more than just the cam price itself. There is no need to reengineer what he has if he can run a dual plane now and def work it with that cam and head combo. He can always change it later on. Holding onto a plan for 2 years has pretty high expectations in the gear head world.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2013
Posts: 93
Likes: 0
From: NH
I want to set the car up for boost in the future for a reason, this is going to be my last hurrah before I build my house and I will not be able to start tearing this apart and swapping cams and stuff in the future. I'm dead set on having something that makes stupid power and have always wanted a procharger, even if it takes me forever to do it. Even running that cam n/a it's still going to be a lot faster than it ever was with the old AFR headed 385.
The intake I had no idea about, I appreciate the heads up on that. Even if I sacrifice a bit now I can handle that if it pays off once it has a small amount of boost. I know you guys are the experts and I appreciate fully this caliber of insight and help.
I'm going to look into this trick flows too, I know heads are where power is made and I don't want to sacrifice a ton to save 500 bucks esp if those heads come with springs that will work already on them. I want to take them out of the box and bolt them on. Thanks to all, without this forum and you guys id be totally lost with the LS stuff
The intake I had no idea about, I appreciate the heads up on that. Even if I sacrifice a bit now I can handle that if it pays off once it has a small amount of boost. I know you guys are the experts and I appreciate fully this caliber of insight and help.
I'm going to look into this trick flows too, I know heads are where power is made and I don't want to sacrifice a ton to save 500 bucks esp if those heads come with springs that will work already on them. I want to take them out of the box and bolt them on. Thanks to all, without this forum and you guys id be totally lost with the LS stuff
