Cam problems please help
You say the fault won't clear and returns immediately? (hard fault) That sounds like an open or shorted wire between ecm and sensor. Use a DVM with audible function, disconnect sensor and disconnect ecm and see if there is continuity to ground at any of the power (12v) or reference (5v) pin connectors then check them connector to connector to see if any of the 3 are open.
play with the plug too. Lots of times wires are broken right at the plug and they get overlooked. Pull on them and see if any stretch. Also check the pins/terminals in the plug/sensor. If they have been on and off a bunch of times they can become loose and not make good contact. DONT PROBE THE TERMINALS WITH ANYTHING WHILE TESTING, just put the tester on the end. That will only spread them out and make another problem.
ok here is an update. pins were messed on plug so i put a new pigtail on. my cam sound is back sounds mean as hell but im still popping and my o2 sensors are too far apart and still have the p0343 code. i have no idea what is going on but i am stumped i cant tune this car with this code on.
i checked continuity from ecm to pig tail plug by the old egr valve all good. check from pigtail to sensor plug and all good. plug pigtail in by egr and tested from ecm to sensor plug and no resistance at all. My car now sounds like an ms4 should but my o2 are bank 115mv bank 2 424mv at idle. im guessing that it is still off because of the code.
Any ideas?
i checked continuity from ecm to pig tail plug by the old egr valve all good. check from pigtail to sensor plug and all good. plug pigtail in by egr and tested from ecm to sensor plug and no resistance at all. My car now sounds like an ms4 should but my o2 are bank 115mv bank 2 424mv at idle. im guessing that it is still off because of the code.
Any ideas?
Originally Posted by 64post
You say the fault won't clear and returns immediately? (hard fault) That sounds like an open or shorted wire between ecm and sensor. Use a DVM with audible function, disconnect sensor and disconnect ecm and see if there is continuity to ground at any of the power (12v) or reference (5v) pin connectors then check them connector to connector to see if any of the 3 are open.
I have not tested continuity to ground from the trigger or feed i will do this.
but why is my car lopping now like it should?
You say the fault won't clear and returns immediately? (hard fault) That sounds like an open or shorted wire between ecm and sensor. Use a DVM with audible function, disconnect sensor and disconnect ecm and see if there is continuity to ground at any of the power (12v) or reference (5v) pin connectors then check them connector to connector to see if any of the 3 are open.
I have not tested continuity to ground from the trigger or feed i will do this.
but why is my car lopping now like it should?
It will clear itself from the PCM after one successful test, but will show up on the check engine light for 3 successful ignition cycles. Another way is to disconnect the battery for 30 minutes.

