Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

you sir deserve a medal for all of your hard work. i just have one question, when you chose your cam did you use a lq4/ls1 style cam or did you have to get a LS3 style one? i ask because GM changed the cam sensor position i believe and i just picked up a lq4 and was thinking about a pieced together ls3 top end or a regular boosted lq4.

Also i have a 99-2000 lq4 so i think i have to get a different torque convertor than my stock 01 camaro convertor.

sorry if this is jumbled, its late and i read every page of your thread.

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

Nice link. ^^ I've been out pacing what I've actual done on my project then what's on this thread.

The parts I've have on hand and ready to install are:
LQ9/LQ4 block

Upgraded to LQ9 pistons to increase CR. (Old: LQ4 dished pistons (-8cc dished))
-Total Seal CR Classic Race Piston Rings CR0684

Upgraded to LQ9 connecting rods (upgraded the hardware with ARP) (Old: LQ4 split ring connecting rods )
-Sealed Power A-Series Rod Bearings 8-2555A
-ARP High Performance Series Connecting Rod Bolt Kits 134-6006

LQ4 stock crank
- reussing the stock hardware for the mains
-Sealed Power MA Series Main Bearings 7298MA

LS6 heads casting # 317 stamped/certified by LKQ (no CNC has been done, will hurt HP but I don't have the money to get them ported by a CNC). I also opted for the LS6 heads over LS3/L92 heads to boost compression levels and got them for $200 + $90 for the machine shop rechecking the condition for me.

FAST intake 102mm

Nick Williams 102mm TB

Cam: suggestions? I'm thinking TSPs torquer 2 or 3, maybe a magic stick. Want to keep single beehive valve springs to keep cost low. Looking to keep power in the bottom end to mid range rpm.

Monster stage 3 clutch, flywheel, pressure plate

UMI suspension parts - see pic

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

Any input on cam?

sierravmax

iTrader: (1)

Did I read that right? Your Ls6 heads have 317 stamped on them? If that is so then they are not Ls6 heads.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

317 is the stock LQ4 head for most years. The ports are the same as the LS6 but the chamber is big to keep compression down for the trucks to run 87 octane.

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

You are 100% correct. I feel like an idiot, and this boys and girls is why you don't believe anything you see on craigslist. Looks like I'm back in the market for some heads, cuz my compression going to be too low.

sierravmax

iTrader: (1)

Yeah sorry man. I was about to say you got those things for dirt cheap. Ls6 (243) usually go for $400-$450 and Lq4 (317) go for $200-$250. You can also look for 799 heads as I understand they are the same thing as 243's.

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

good news is 317s are desirable for people building turbo engines so you should be able to get a lot of your money back

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

Well after running a CR calculator and seeing my CR was going to be that of a LQ4 stock. I've decided to pump up the CR by putting LQ9 pistons like you suggested Kevin. Still undecided on cam. What do you guys think of the setup so far? Think 500 rwhp is achievable? I can relist parts I've already got, just need a cam and fuel and that should be it for the engine. I estimate CR to be around 10.5:1

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

500rwhp no fwhp yes

thunderstruck507

iTrader: (18)

You can get a good dual spring for about the same price as a good beehive spring: http://www.briantooleyracing.com/660...s-sk001-s.html

For the cam, speak to Cam Motion or Geoff at EPS who gets his cams through them and they will spec you a cam to work with your combo and how you intend to use the car.


500rwhp will require a good ported head or aftermarket casting with some touch up and a perfectly set up combination of parts with attention to detail. Typically they use higher compression as well in the mid 11:1 area.

It's rare to see from a 5.7-6.0 liter setup. On stock 243/799 heads you will probably be around 420-430rwhp.

At the end of the day a ls2 or iron 6.0 on stock cubes isn't much different than a ls1 in terms of power, especially on a mild setup. They have more potential to use better heads, go 402 or 408 stroker, and the cubes can eat up a little more cam and still be tame for the street.

Patro46

Thanks for the compliment. The cam is a spec't custom grind from Comp Cams, and is based on an LS1 grind. I had to convert the 58th reluctor wheel on the crank to a 24 toothed LS1 wheel. I did use an LS3 MAF, so we had to create our own tables to get it functional with the LS1 ecm.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

We can help you out on all the parts your needing. If your wanting a beehive we have a killer one available for about $150. It'll go big lift but typically guys go doubles if they're getting aggressive with lift.

We can also help you with a camshaft setup & maybe even cylinder heads! We have some specials going on cnc heads & even have a few scratch & dent sets for guys wanting to save $$ & not minding if the heads have a couple cosmetic scratches!

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

So I'm back on the subject of switching out heads again since I've got a set of flat top pistions. LS3/L92 vs. a set of 317 (LQ4/LQ9) heads.

My thoughts are:
- 317 (LQ4/LQ9) heads have a combustion chamber of 74cc w/ valves: intake 2.02" exhaust 1.57".

-LS3/L92 heads have a combustion chanber of 64-72cc, according to Texas Speed w/ valves: intake 2.165" exhaust 1.59".

- 317 (LQ4/LQ9) heads have cathedral ports while the LS3/L92 heads have rectangular ports, and from what I've read the rectangular ports won't out preform the cathedral until 6k rpms.

- Current set up w/ the 317 puts me at a CR of 10.16 and the key factors in making HP is a good CR, so should I just deck the 317s to boost CR and not worry about getting the LS3/L92? I've already bought the rockers and intake for a cathedral port set up, and switching now I'd have to get some offset rockers for for the Ls3/L92 heads and switch the intake as well.....

Does anyone have some flow numbers for similar set ups with the L92/LS3 vs. LQ4/LQ9 heads? Might help drive my decision.

I've decided to upgrade the Main Bolts to ARP Main Studs while I figure out which way I'm going to take my build.

brian_rs/ss

in for later! i'm about to go down the same road. going to be picking up a lq4 block shortly. gonna throw my 799's on top of stock bottom end for now. i want to eventually go turbo and will end up with 317's and ls6 intake but that's way later. for now just need something to turn the massive 9" that's also about to go in


edit: on the subject of heads, yes you need CR to help make power, but 10.1 isn't bad. but if you are never going boosted then yes it might be worth milling down the 317's. also cathedrals are very good at moving air quickly down low which is good for you. OR just sell them off and pick up a set of 243/799's even stock i think you'll be happy with the results.

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

So this is what I came away with from Texas Speed, the items haven't shipped out yet, as I still need to measure piston to deck clearance for proper quench before getting gaskets.

Cam:
Texas Speed Torquer V3 Camshaft - 231/234 .643/.598 111 LSA.. (might change the LSA to 112) - input?

Heads:
Precision Race Components LS6 Stage 2.5 CNC Cylinder Heads; 2.02" intake, 1.57" exhaust valves - this also comes with PRC dual valve springs

Went ahead and got the LS6 (64cc chamber) heads over the LQ4/9 (74cc chamber)heads becasue of the smaller combosition chamber, in order to boost compression ratio into the 11:1s. Apparently the flow numbers are the same for these two heads according by TSP, only difference is the combustion chamber.

Nick V.

iTrader: (1)

Any updates on this man? Finally got my lq4 and camaro in one place so now the buildup is about to start for me too.

slowcpe

Just read through this and curious as to any updates. Currently collecting parts for my LQ4 build. I also have a TSP Torquer V3 cam and picking up a set of 243s.

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

So.... it's been over a year since I've posted anything on this project. As most of us know job(s) and life in generally can get in the way sometimes; but I've been head strong and making progress for the last month now. So here are some updates and some issues I've ran into.

Since I was putting in a new motor and trans I convinced myself, but more importantly my wife, now was the time to upgrade the front suspension as well. Here's a list of items I've purchased to do so.

Front Suspension Upgrades
-UMI tubular K-member P/N 2320
-UMI Boxed Adj. Lower A-Arms w/ Roto-joints P/N 2312
- Koni Sport Shock 4/4 - on car adjustable -Ordered from Strano
- Strano lowering springs
- Replace stock upper A-Arms with generic upper A-Arms from Rock Auto. This was due to me bending the stamped steel when trying to removed the pressed bushing. It was actually cheaper to get new uppers then take the old ones to a machine shop to get them pressed out and then powdercoated
- Had the Steering Knuckles/Spindle Arms sandblasted and powdercoated
- Cleaned up the Spindles/Wheel bearing assembly with muriatic acid (1 part acid 4 parts water, this broke down the rust) then dipped the part in baking soda solution to neutralize the acid and spray painted them. Rinse and repeat as neccessary.

I've finally finished degreeing the camshaft and measure PtoV clearance , see pictures. Now I'm on setting pre-load on the lifters and running into some issues.

Degreeing Camshaft
If anyone has questions on how I degreed the camshaft, I can explain in detail. Everything I did checked out when degreeing in the camshaft I used the duration method at .050 opening/closing to find the intake center line (ICL)

Piston to Valve Clearence - This is wear things begin to get a little fuzzy
Method to determine PtoV clearance: Use a solid lifter, adj push-rod (PR), rocker with rocker pedistal, desired head gasket thickness, checker springs, & 1" dial indicator. The heads were snugged onto the block to prevent the heads from being lifted during PtoV measurements, but were not torqued down to spec.

I currently have 7.4" PR and I'm shooting for .080 pre-load, but since I'm using a solid lifter, with the same dimensions of the hydraulic lifter I plan to use, I adjusted my adj. PR to 7.325" to compensate the for the .080" of pre-load. 7.4-.080 = 7.32". Pre-load cannot be applied on a solid lifter.

Set rocker to zero valve lash (my understanding of zero valve lash is when the rocker cannot move vertically off of the rocker pedestal, but the rocker arm may move side to side (horizontal) from the valve spring steam/valve spring side) - IS THIS CORRECT? - Yes I've searched the forms and I find some definitions, but they're lacking in specifics -using vague terms like the wiggle method..... wiggle in what directions!?!?!

I will describe how I calculated my PtoV clearance on the #1 piston intake valve. (minimum clearance needed is .080")
Rotate the engine to 15 degrees before top dead center (BTDC) taking a measurement from the 1" dial indicator, my measurement was .481; now with your figures depress the valve or rocker until the valve makes contact with piston, take another measurement from the dial indicator, mine was .222. Find clearance by subtracting the two numbers .481-.222 = .261. .261" > than .080" (min. clearance) good for PtoV clearance. Repeat this step in increments of 5 degree until your're 15 degrees after top dead center (ATDC).

Here's the rest of my measurements for the #1 piston, intake valve
10 degrees BTDC .198"
5 degrees BTDC .147"
0 degrees TDC .114"
5 degrees ATDC .094"
10 degrees ATDC .092"
15 degrees ATDC .102"

Any input on the method I used to calculate my Piston to Valve Clearance would greatly be appreciated!

I do plan on updating this post again later this week with updates on other issues/problems I found in the engine bay area, as you may remember from earlier posts in the thread.

Octavain

iTrader: (5)

Any input ^^ ?