yes the pump will come ported and melling is just an aftermarket brand that is well known also.

With 160k on the odo I would seriously want to change the lifters. Most likely you could run them and they would be just fine but at 160k if I was going to get a car back on the road that had been sitting i would freshen them up. The lifters with new head gaskets, lifter trays and bolts would be around 250 bucks so its not a huge price killer.

 

redbird555,
Part of the reason I chose the cams I did was factoring in his 3k stall, the Futral F6 with 112lsa would also work good, but would be the largest I'd recommend for his application. The Cam Motion, Titan II cam would actually be my first choice for him.

I've got to agree with you on the supporting modifications for his car especially since, the car is going to be kept long term, and to avoid future tear downs considering the current mileage on his engine.

 

I agree the f4 isnt a bad choice. But I think even with a 3200 stall he would be fine with anything 4-5 overlap and under no bigger though. They would still keep the ivc under 44 and I think would make slightly more power without giving much if anything up. The 228/230 is the absolute biggest i would go on that stall but then again thats why everyone has opinions.

Anther thing the op can look at is lobe design. Futral or eps lobes will be much easier on a DD valvetrain than say lsk or xer lobes. So if the car will be driven very frequently and he wants to do as little maintenance as possible that's something to definitely explore.

 

thanks everyone.. I appreciate the info, a lot of data to soak in and see what route I decide to go.. I was hoping not to remove the heads, but if lifters are in order, then I guess no way around that..

 

you can chance it lol. it would just suck to put that in there then wipe a lifter and destroy the new cam. plus springs and valve seals will be much easier with the heads off. You could even deck the heads about .010 and then run a .040 gasket with those smaller cams. That would help compression and give, more tq, better mpg and driveability with any cam

 

Whats it mean to deck the heads? is that just milling them down some? Also as replacement head gaskets, would I be able to get .040 gaskets from GM or would I have to go aftermarket to get that?

 

So I have a question with the cam swap, since im considering and possibly ordering parts today or this weekend, I was watching some videos on doing the swap and one thing I plan on doing is replacing the oil pump. Which from the videos requires the oil pan to be dropped some in order to remove / disconnect the pickup tube..

the one thing no one mentions in the videos or online steps is, do I have to lift the motor any or undo the mounts to give enough clearance? will loosening all the bolts and letting it drop as much as it can enough to do the oil pump swap? will the gasket be damaged? just trying to prepare myself for whatever I need to do and get ready.

 

Does anyone know if you have to check valve spring height when installing BTR dual springs ?

 

You don't have to, but you'll never know if they're at the correct Installed Height unless you check!
IMO, get the micrometer (buy, borrow, or rent it)and do it right, it's cheaper than a new engine!

 

No, just dropping the pan all the way down is enough, and the gasket should be fine.

 

Yes loosening the bolt will give enough clearance. Imo you should stuff a rag between the oil pan and pump while working in that area just in case a bolt drops.
Yes decking the heads involves just cleaning them up on a milling machine. And no the .040 gaskets are only available through cometic gm will be the stock .051

 

You mentioned in the OP that you have a yearly inspection and that you have to have cats to pass. Does this inspection include tailpipe emissions, because if so, this will limit you cam choices?

 

we live in Houston, in the past, they have shoved their sniffer in the tail pipes and the gas cap, but on my last inspection on my truck, I don't recall seeing them do the tail pipe, so honestly not 100% sure on the tailpipe part..

as I wasn't aware of that being a concern, I didn't mention any of that to the sponsors when asking for quotes.. so I already order and should be arriving today or tomorrow the TSP cam, found the sales order in my email.

this is what we ordered:

Texas Speed & Performance 224/228
Camshaft: 224/228, .581'/.588', 112 LSA

 

What about the oil pan gasket? will dropping the pan a bit to do the install damage the gasket? can it be reused/ retightened without leaks after words?

 

no the gaskets on an ls engine are all reusable minus the head gaskets so it will b e fine. just be careful when putting it back together. also make sure the new oil pump tube o-rig goes into the pump straight and doesnt get pinched

 

yea that is the part that was talked about a lot in the videos and even on a episode of powerblock tv where they were rebuilding a LS1

So is there a way to tell if it went in fine with such limited viewing when putting it all back together. I mean if I put the tube back into the pump and look at how the 2 parts meet up, will it be obvious that its in right or not?

 

Im sure I don't, but wanted to ask and make sure.. since I didn't see it done in a few vidoes.. but then again they had the entire motor apart..

but there is no need to remove the oil valley cover right( I think its called that) the cover with the knock sensors..

thanks..

 

nope it can stay put as well as the intake minus the tb unless you plan on doing lifters in which case the intake has to come off but the valley cover can still stay put

 

yea everything is off the top of the motor, heads will be next, just wanted to make sure I didn't have to remove that cover for anything while installing the cam and lifters..

thanks..