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Old May 18, 2004 | 11:26 PM
  #21  
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I hear you, but the time it takes to run one quarter of a mile is not the main focus for everyone.
Trap speeds equal power. And a cam that makes a car trap higher is a cam that makes the car faster and more powerful.

YOU are the one who said a strong car is what's important...

My thinking of "proving the naysayers wrong" is showing this inexpensive cam can make good power.
Well, you're not going to. The fact is this cam makes much less power AND is less drivable than cams that act similar.

You aren't going to prove this wrong, its pretty much fact.

And that it in fact does not suck, like too many people say it does.
Well sorry to burst your bubble, but it does. It might work for you and what you want to do with your car, but it is far below what you can get from other cams.

The hotcam is great for people who want more bark than bite.

Not my thing, but do what you like, do what makes you happy.

A dyno is a dyno, but it is good for something. Otherwise people like you and I would not put a car on one. Funny how some say that dyno numbers mean nothing, yet they dyno their car after every new mod.
For comparing before and after. Not really for comparing car to car.

This car in the center of discussion makes good power, and would be strong on the street, which is the main focus of people like me lol.
And a different cam would be stronger. And be faster/win more races/hit the number they want/etc. Which is the main focus of people like everyone else.

Of course it is not the best strip cam, but it's really good for what it is.
Its not the best cam, but its okay for people who want a noisy car and don't mind sacrificing power (compared to other cams) to get it because its cheap.

And I would feel safe going on a long road trip without breaking a spring. Of course I am a hypocrite taking into consideration my set up
okay

My $0.02:

If you are putting a cam in, spend the money to do it right, and skip the notcam.
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Old May 18, 2004 | 11:33 PM
  #22  
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That is exactly what I was going for, good power increase and no tune, how ever I did break a spring the first night I got in done, they were 941's and then the next day I got a set of 02' LS6 springs install, so with that said the price of the cam was not my consern, I wanted proven performance and a good lopey idle, this cam does every thing I wanted and more I only expected 355rwhp and when 370rwhp showed up I was more that pleased! and I did research for 6 months and which cam would be right for me, I looked at TR230, TR224, Lunati 224, Lunati 230/237 and even custom griding
a cam. Then my buddy got a 396 built and only had this cam in his 1st engine for about 3000miles and 3 passes on it and he gave me a good deal, but by the time 2 sets of springs and gaskets and other stuff I could have had any cam I wanted. but I like it and so does my car, keep updated on mods and track and dyno numbers they both are important!
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Old May 18, 2004 | 11:36 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by z98
My $0.02:

If you are putting a cam in, spend the money to do it right, and skip the notcam.
My only question is where do you draw the line? According to your philosophy a solid roller cam would be ok for a daily driver. While I agree that the hot cam isnt for everybody, it makes a nice gain over stock and spring life longevity makes it a great daily driver cam.

You also have to remember that alot of guys on here are young or dont have the money to spit out on a serious cam package. While a few hundred dollars cheaper to you might not be much, to another person it can mean alot. Same situation for changing springs. You might pay a similar price at the time of install, but what about every 12k miles when youre changing springs in your big cammed car? And dont get me wrong, Im playing devil's advocate, I plan on doing a big cam myself. Just provoking thought.
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Old May 19, 2004 | 07:23 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by racrx
see sig....bought B1 cam used with springs(918's) for $200. Used headers that I repaired a bit were $100. Making 386hp...no tune, no pulley....unless someone sells me one real cheap..lol. No, I'm not a cheap bastard, just putting my son through college. racrx
I understand about putting mods off on the track car because I have two kids in college.....which is very expensive but worth it. cheers.......
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Old May 19, 2004 | 10:35 AM
  #25  
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Let's be careful not to suggest that spring changing every 12k is usually necessary with aggressive cams. That would be misinformation to suggest such. Choose your springs wisely and I think you can go 30-40K (usage and overall gearing would have alot to do with it too) even with XE-R lobes. I'll let ya'll know as my Stealth II keeps racking up the miles (10k now.)
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Old May 19, 2004 | 10:44 AM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by MikeB.RamAir
how ever I did break a spring the first night I got in done, they were 941's and then the next day I got a set of 02' LS6 springs install,
Who in the hell told you to use 941 springs?
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Old May 19, 2004 | 01:29 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Colonel
Let's be careful not to suggest that spring changing every 12k is usually necessary with aggressive cams. That would be misinformation to suggest such. Choose your springs wisely and I think you can go 30-40K (usage and overall gearing would have alot to do with it too) even with XE-R lobes. I'll let ya'll know as my Stealth II keeps racking up the miles (10k now.)
I stand corrected Sent you a pm too Colonel.
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Old May 19, 2004 | 08:58 PM
  #28  
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My only question is where do you draw the line? According to your philosophy a solid roller cam would be ok for a daily driver.
If it was cheaper a solid roller would be PERFECT for a daily driver.

I don't mind adjusting the valves at all, but the price of a solid roller kit scares me away. If the prices come down I will have one in my daily driver. It won't be a huge cam either, but bigger than what most people run in their daily drivers because bigger hydro cams are a lot harder to live with than a solid.

Overlap is everything at low RPMs.

While I agree that the hot cam isnt for everybody, it makes a nice gain over stock and spring life longevity makes it a great daily driver cam.
I don't know. I'd rather go with something like the TR224 cams. At only .561 lift the springs are gonna last a long time. Better power, better idle.

I don't see the upside to the hotcam. Except maybe price.

But you get what you pay for!

You also have to remember that alot of guys on here are young or dont have the money to spit out on a serious cam package. While a few hundred dollars cheaper to you might not be much, to another person it can mean alot.
So wait a few more months and get a good cam. Why have to spend even MORE money later to fix your mistake?

Same situation for changing springs. You might pay a similar price at the time of install, but what about every 12k miles when youre changing springs in your big cammed car? And dont get me wrong, Im playing devil's advocate, I plan on doing a big cam myself. Just provoking thought.
That's not entirely true. 12k miles?

Colonel, what springs are you running with your stealth II cam?
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Old May 19, 2004 | 10:44 PM
  #29  
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Jayson told me that they are Ferreras but someone else told me otherwise once (I tend to believe Jayson since he owns the place!) They're whatever double spring that MTI is useing when they machine a head to fit the larger springs (NOT a stock sized replacement.)

At 20,000 miles I'm going to check them. I'm gambling that they'll make it until then but I think it's a safe gamble. Time will tell.
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Old May 20, 2004 | 01:11 AM
  #30  
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well the upside to the hot cam for me is the 32HP I gained and the total hp at 370 untuned, there is guy guy I know that has a Firehawk and has a dyno tuned TR224 cam and only has 375hp so I think I did pretty well!! If I had only gained 10-15hp with this cam I would have been ok, because like most of you I didn't expected much for this cam but it proved me wrong, and I am not trying to prove anyone wrong but instead of saying it sucks, say somthing like it is a good street cam, maybe not the best but a good one in my books!
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Old May 20, 2004 | 05:31 PM
  #31  
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yea, i think Nasty718 was talking about me. cause that was my # and my clutch took a dump on the maden voyage. i havent even been able to get on her... but tonight!! well not tonight... so i dynod at 340 pre cam with cats. 1st dyno run after the !cats and cam was 377 rwhp. with tune 386 rwhp. thats a gain of 46rwhp. thats pretty good i think. i beat my goal rwhp by 6.
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Old May 20, 2004 | 07:04 PM
  #32  
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I had the HC before installing the FMS F11 that I have now, unfortunatly I never dynoed with the HC, the dyno with the F11 is in my sig. The F11 was tuned the HC was not, I had 2 track days with the HC only 1 so far with the F11, on average the F11 has been .4-.5 seconds quicker and 4 mph faster on a worse 60ft then I had with the HC. Track prep sucked the only time I was there(same track). I think with tuning the HC could be as good of a daily driver as the F11, but never quite match the #'s at the track.
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Old May 26, 2004 | 01:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by z98
bigger hydro cams are a lot harder to live with than a solid.
Overlap is everything at low RPMs.
Good point.

Originally Posted by z98
I don't know. I'd rather go with something like the TR224 cams. At only .561 lift the springs are gonna last a long time. Better power, better idle.
I don't see the upside to the hotcam. Except maybe price.

But you get what you pay for!

So wait a few more months and get a good cam. Why have to spend even MORE money later to fix your mistake?
Agreed

Originally Posted by z98
That's not entirely true. 12k miles?
I was a bit misinformed and exxagerating a little.

Sorry to bring this back from the dead but you make some very good points z98.
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