Which cam for my setup?
Which cam for my setup? I know these threads come up a lot, but I like hearing peoples opinions and learn from them too. I'm thinking of a low-mid 230's cam for my car (something like the Torquer2, G5X2, TSP 233/239, etc..) or even a custom one made.
Its not my daily driver, but more of a weekend fun toy and occasionally take it to the drag stip. I want a lopey sound, and have power in the mid-range. I'm not looking for peak power, I'd rather sacrifice a few HP and have better drivability. I can always add the bottle down the road
What cam would you guys suggest?
Here are my mods to help:
Stock LS1 block with LS6 cam
SLP Lid
Ported T/B
LS6 Intake
Pacesetter LT's
FLT Level 4 4L60e
PT 4000
3.73 gears
Cars weight - 3160lbs
Thanks in advance!
Its not my daily driver, but more of a weekend fun toy and occasionally take it to the drag stip. I want a lopey sound, and have power in the mid-range. I'm not looking for peak power, I'd rather sacrifice a few HP and have better drivability. I can always add the bottle down the road
What cam would you guys suggest?
Here are my mods to help:
Stock LS1 block with LS6 cam
SLP Lid
Ported T/B
LS6 Intake
Pacesetter LT's
FLT Level 4 4L60e
PT 4000
3.73 gears
Cars weight - 3160lbs
Thanks in advance!
Here's my recommendations, nothing crazy on the overlap(under 10* OL) so they all should be fairly streetable /DD friendly.
BTR N/A Stg II Cam(227/234 113lsa+2, .614"/.576") with 4.5* overlap.
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/nat...-camshaft.html
Tick, LS2 Street Heat Stage 1(229/232 113lsa+3, .61x”/.57x”) with 4.5* overlap.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls2-engines/
Tick, LS1 Street Heat Stage 2(231/238 113lsa+3, .61x”/.58x”) with 8.5* overlap.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
BTR N/A Stg II Cam(227/234 113lsa+2, .614"/.576") with 4.5* overlap.
http://www.briantooleyracing.com/nat...-camshaft.html
Tick, LS2 Street Heat Stage 1(229/232 113lsa+3, .61x”/.57x”) with 4.5* overlap.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls2-engines/
Tick, LS1 Street Heat Stage 2(231/238 113lsa+3, .61x”/.58x”) with 8.5* overlap.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
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If you want a great cam for a 4000 stall and 3.73's our LS1/LS6 or LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 camshaft would be perfect.
As would the LS2 SNS Stage 2.
231/238 .617/.585 113+3 SH Stage 2 LS1/LS6
233/240 .619/.588 112+2 SH Stage 2 LS2
231/235 .617/.621 111+2 SNS Stage 2 LS2
You could run the Stage 3, but the 3.73 gears are a bit too much gear for that camshaft. The 4000 stall could technically "make up" for the gear, but a 4.10 would be optimal.
Since it will probably be asked, yes you can run the LS2 cams in your LS1/LS6. The engine doesn't know how a camshaft is marketed.
As would the LS2 SNS Stage 2.
231/238 .617/.585 113+3 SH Stage 2 LS1/LS6
233/240 .619/.588 112+2 SH Stage 2 LS2
231/235 .617/.621 111+2 SNS Stage 2 LS2
You could run the Stage 3, but the 3.73 gears are a bit too much gear for that camshaft. The 4000 stall could technically "make up" for the gear, but a 4.10 would be optimal.
Since it will probably be asked, yes you can run the LS2 cams in your LS1/LS6. The engine doesn't know how a camshaft is marketed.
If you want a great cam for a 4000 stall and 3.73's our LS1/LS6 or LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 camshaft would be perfect.
As would the LS2 SNS Stage 2.
231/238 .617/.585 113+3 SH Stage 2 LS1/LS6
233/240 .619/.588 112+2 SH Stage 2 LS2
231/235 .617/.621 111+2 SNS Stage 2 LS2
You could run the Stage 3, but the 3.73 gears are a bit too much gear for that camshaft. The 4000 stall could technically "make up" for the gear, but a 4.10 would be optimal.
Since it will probably be asked, yes you can run the LS2 cams in your LS1/LS6. The engine doesn't know how a camshaft is marketed.
As would the LS2 SNS Stage 2.
231/238 .617/.585 113+3 SH Stage 2 LS1/LS6
233/240 .619/.588 112+2 SH Stage 2 LS2
231/235 .617/.621 111+2 SNS Stage 2 LS2
You could run the Stage 3, but the 3.73 gears are a bit too much gear for that camshaft. The 4000 stall could technically "make up" for the gear, but a 4.10 would be optimal.
Since it will probably be asked, yes you can run the LS2 cams in your LS1/LS6. The engine doesn't know how a camshaft is marketed.
I have the SNS stage 3 cam with 3.73s and a yank ss3600 stall with no drivability issues. Im actually DD the car at the moment, makes for a fun ride to and from work!
If you want a great cam for a 4000 stall and 3.73's our LS1/LS6 or LS2 Street Heat Stage 2 camshaft would be perfect.
As would the LS2 SNS Stage 2.
231/238 .617/.585 113+3 SH Stage 2 LS1/LS6
233/240 .619/.588 112+2 SH Stage 2 LS2
231/235 .617/.621 111+2 SNS Stage 2 LS2
You could run the Stage 3, but the 3.73 gears are a bit too much gear for that camshaft. The 4000 stall could technically "make up" for the gear, but a 4.10 would be optimal.
Since it will probably be asked, yes you can run the LS2 cams in your LS1/LS6. The engine doesn't know how a camshaft is marketed.
As would the LS2 SNS Stage 2.
231/238 .617/.585 113+3 SH Stage 2 LS1/LS6
233/240 .619/.588 112+2 SH Stage 2 LS2
231/235 .617/.621 111+2 SNS Stage 2 LS2
You could run the Stage 3, but the 3.73 gears are a bit too much gear for that camshaft. The 4000 stall could technically "make up" for the gear, but a 4.10 would be optimal.
Since it will probably be asked, yes you can run the LS2 cams in your LS1/LS6. The engine doesn't know how a camshaft is marketed.
Whenever you increase the amount of time the engine experiences overlap of the intake and exhaust tracts increasing exhaust flow through better scavenging is highly beneficial.
I would highly recommend purchasing a 3" inlet 4" outlet FM merge and combining it with a 4" I-pipe then reducing it to 3" to connect with an aftermarket or factory cat-back.
IMO the best combo you can do is go with a 3" inlet 4" outlet FM merge, 4" I-pipe with a 4" electric cutout and then connect it with a 4-3" reducer to your factory cat-back. Even better would be if you had any one of the factory SLP style exhausts you could connect to.
This way you'd have an extremely quiet nice driving car with great manners. Then when you wanted it to be loud, mean and nasty you can flip a switch and open the 4" cut-out.
It truly is the best of both worlds(performance and OEM). Even better than purchasing a SLP style exhaust would be if your vehicle already has said exhaust from the factory. If it doesn't and you opt to keep your "normal" OEM exhaust you're still getting great driving manners with the option for more flow through the 4" cut-out than any high dollar aftermarket cat-back could deliver.