What do you guys think about this setup?
Ohmyneck,
I'm running a TR230 with STOCK Ls6 heads, ls6 intake, 12-bolt 4.10s, FLP headers (no cats), and a cutout after the y-pipe. On Nittos with a crappy 2.0 60 ft, I'm at 12.4@115. This is in a heavy WS6 with SFCs and no weight reduction. My plan this year is to put a real tire on the car and shoot for 11.8s with the stock LS6 heads. Judging by my current 60 ft and mph, that should be about right. I'd guess you'd be in the same boat, but a little (how much?) faster due to ported heads.
just my 2 cents,
Dan
I'm running a TR230 with STOCK Ls6 heads, ls6 intake, 12-bolt 4.10s, FLP headers (no cats), and a cutout after the y-pipe. On Nittos with a crappy 2.0 60 ft, I'm at 12.4@115. This is in a heavy WS6 with SFCs and no weight reduction. My plan this year is to put a real tire on the car and shoot for 11.8s with the stock LS6 heads. Judging by my current 60 ft and mph, that should be about right. I'd guess you'd be in the same boat, but a little (how much?) faster due to ported heads.
just my 2 cents,
Dan
With ported heads, the T-rex is simply to big. It was proven in a earlier post from someone who swapped the TR230 for the T-rex. The car lost everywhere but from 5800 up. The T-rex makes good power in cars with stock heads because the flow is hindered by the head, therefore more cam is needed to help push more air. When you open up the heads with ported castings, things flow a little easier and less camshaft is needed to move a certain amount of air. As far as buying a cam for lope, you shouldn't focus your attention on that. You can by any cam you want and put it on a 108 or 110 LSA and it is gunna make sum racket. Duration effects sound, but not very much. (in most cases) If I were you, I would look into a cam in the 230-234 duration range. Hence why I reccomended the FMS 230/232. Get it cut on a 112 or a 110LSA if you want more lope. You have to remember that bigger isn't always better. Beast96Z=========> Not a big cam hater, just preachin the facts.
Originally Posted by Ohmyneck
Thats nice but, I'm shooting for mid-low 11's and around 450+ rwhp on a car that does see road time about 3-4 days a week
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From: kuwait
Originally Posted by Ohmyneck
I decided on an H/C setup, but I'm not sure what kind of rwhp numbers I'd be slapping down, or 1/4 mile times.
I'm gonna go with (I'm pretty sure anyways)
TR230 cam
with either the Patriot Stage II heads, or the LS6 ported style
Spec Stage 3 clutch
Moser 12-bolt with 4.10's
Hooker Coated LT's
True duals with Sweet thunder 18 inch chamberd dumps
SFC
and STB
What do you guys think? Of course I'll have all the needed hardware for my H/C install with studs etc. What kind of rwhp numbers should I shoot for, and what kind of 1/4 mile times would i be capable of? Thanks guys
Brandon
I'm gonna go with (I'm pretty sure anyways)
TR230 cam
with either the Patriot Stage II heads, or the LS6 ported style
Spec Stage 3 clutch
Moser 12-bolt with 4.10's
Hooker Coated LT's
True duals with Sweet thunder 18 inch chamberd dumps
SFC
and STB
What do you guys think? Of course I'll have all the needed hardware for my H/C install with studs etc. What kind of rwhp numbers should I shoot for, and what kind of 1/4 mile times would i be capable of? Thanks guys
Brandon
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Launching!
Joined: Feb 2004
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Well for the exact setup I'm looking for is there a better cam? I've tried to learn this and that the last couple weeks and I still cant decide on a cam. I hear people recomend this cam, and that one.. then some people argue over the fact that the cam someone just told me would be perfect for my application someone else says its WAY to big and i dont need it. All i want it a cam that has a nice powerband through out the power band, has some very nice lope to it, and produces at least some mid to high 11 second times with everything else i had planned to do. I wanna be fast, and i wanna be able to sit at a stop light and people drool over how mean it sounds at idle. Thats really all I'm looking for.
