New Motor Installed, Motor Not Running Correctly
#41
Have you individually checked correct spark output to each coil? I had a 347 forged block installed and the coils i purchased for it did not work....put the old ones back on and all was good....Also my engine wouldn't rev past 3500 rpm...After a serious search and the engine being pulled, we found that the crankshaft pin connector wasn't properly seated.....Also on Iron Gen 3 blocks aren't certain changes required to make it run properly in an f-body?
#42
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
http://lt1swap.com/2001_ls1_schematic.htm
Here is a handy link to the engine wiring schematics.
When I look at these, I see 1,3,5,7 injectors and coils paired.
2,4,6,8 injectors and coils paired.
1,4,6, and 7 don't have anything in common.
Clyde mentioned that it runs ok for awhile? How long?
It shouldn't have anything to do with closed loop. If you think that, put it in OL.
Have you had the PCM out of the car?
You can get another PCM. Clyde will have to license it, then apply his base tune. it's clunky, but can be done.
Can you have Clyde post the tune? I assume the PCM is what goes with the car, not the engine.
If 4 cylinders are really firing correctly, then the CPK is working, and the reluctor is correct.
I also think you guys need to try to log both the cam pulse and the crank pulses with HPT.
Ron
Here is a handy link to the engine wiring schematics.
When I look at these, I see 1,3,5,7 injectors and coils paired.
2,4,6,8 injectors and coils paired.
1,4,6, and 7 don't have anything in common.
Clyde mentioned that it runs ok for awhile? How long?
It shouldn't have anything to do with closed loop. If you think that, put it in OL.
Have you had the PCM out of the car?
You can get another PCM. Clyde will have to license it, then apply his base tune. it's clunky, but can be done.
Can you have Clyde post the tune? I assume the PCM is what goes with the car, not the engine.
If 4 cylinders are really firing correctly, then the CPK is working, and the reluctor is correct.
I also think you guys need to try to log both the cam pulse and the crank pulses with HPT.
Ron
#44
Well the saga continues. Today I took the care to a local top notch ls1 guy that Clyde and I know he is well respected in the local LS1 scene. We check all of the same things that have checked numerous times grounds, voltage and continuity. We also checked the cylinders that were not firing 1,7,4,6, sometimes a couple of coils would have spark for a very short time then it would stop firing, same thing with the injectors no certain pattern injectors were check with the noid light.
Hooked up HPTuners, no misfires, all sensors were working properly, but the car still was not operating correctly. So at that point thought it was a PCM issue. We installed a PCM from another car that was running. Everything still operated as it previously was. So we scratched our head a bit, decided to install another computed and engine harness from another car. Hmm still the same thing.
We tried to inspect the reluctor wheel again, if you've ever tried to inspect it from the crank position sensor you know how hard that is and also know that the results are kind of mixed.
With that said he decided that the only logical explanation is that something has to be wrong with the reluctor wheel. A lot of people had suggested that that was the issue already. I guess that I just wanted to be 100% sure before I dropped the motor again. Sounds like I will be dropping it again this weekend.
Hooked up HPTuners, no misfires, all sensors were working properly, but the car still was not operating correctly. So at that point thought it was a PCM issue. We installed a PCM from another car that was running. Everything still operated as it previously was. So we scratched our head a bit, decided to install another computed and engine harness from another car. Hmm still the same thing.
We tried to inspect the reluctor wheel again, if you've ever tried to inspect it from the crank position sensor you know how hard that is and also know that the results are kind of mixed.
With that said he decided that the only logical explanation is that something has to be wrong with the reluctor wheel. A lot of people had suggested that that was the issue already. I guess that I just wanted to be 100% sure before I dropped the motor again. Sounds like I will be dropping it again this weekend.
#45
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (1)
UPDATE...just realized that in post #3, Chevy 406 had already mentioned this.
Last edited by gMAG; 06-25-2014 at 11:52 PM.
#47
Ron, yeah I've read this post. Heck I feel like that I've read evey post on here LOL. From everything that I have read and after speaking with numerous people ( a lot smarter than me ) the reluctor wheel is the only other thing that It could be. Clyde and I had a lengthy discussion about it last night. I should know for sure later on today as I removed the motor last night, got through about 3:00 this morning. Now I just gotta muster up the energy and want too and head back out to the shop.
#48
Update
Well I removed the crankshaft yesterday, It appeared to me that the reluctor wheel was bent. So today I took a little ( 2 hr ) road trip up to Lunati for further inspection and repair. Sure enough once we put the crankshaft up in the polishing lathe and set up a dial indicator on the reluctor there is one section that measured a .090 bow in it. We replaced the reluctor wheel. All that I need to do now is work with the company that I purchased the rotating assembly from and get the parts needed to reassemble. I'm hoping that the 2 of us can work something out on the parts since the reluctor wheel is damaged. Do ya'll think that they have some responsobility due to there being a defective reluctor? I dont think that I should foot all of the cost. What's ya'll thoughts on the situation?
#49
The fact that certain cylinders aren't firing makes me think the reluctor wheel on the crank is off. Either for some reason the pins on some of the wheel aren't being picked up (worn, short, dirt, something) or the wheel itself is out of round. It doesn't take much to make it so that the crank sensor doesn't pick up the wheel at certain spots if their out of round or the wheel is partly warped.
.09 bow, 900 of an inch is plenty to make the crank sensor miss the pulse. Like I said, it doesn't take much to get it off.
Sucks you had to pull the motor though. Hopefully the company will get you straightened out. It is not their responsibility for the fact that that crank was put together wrong by Lunati, but as the seller of the kit they need to own up and take care of you while getting with Lunati and handling any company to company issue for the parts.
Good luck!
#50
Winner, winner, chicken dinner!
.09 bow, 900 of an inch is plenty to make the crank sensor miss the pulse. Like I said, it doesn't take much to get it off.
Sucks you had to pull the motor though. Hopefully the company will get you straightened out. It is not their responsibility for the fact that that crank was put together wrong by Lunati, but as the seller of the kit they need to own up and take care of you while getting with Lunati and handling any company to company issue for the parts.
Good luck!
.09 bow, 900 of an inch is plenty to make the crank sensor miss the pulse. Like I said, it doesn't take much to get it off.
Sucks you had to pull the motor though. Hopefully the company will get you straightened out. It is not their responsibility for the fact that that crank was put together wrong by Lunati, but as the seller of the kit they need to own up and take care of you while getting with Lunati and handling any company to company issue for the parts.
Good luck!
Clyde all of my parts should be here by Thursday, time to get to wrenching ( again ) hopefully I'll have it ready to be tuned next week.
#51
Update
Yeah it does suck that it had to come back out. Hopefully it will be worth it in the end. Yeah I thought that they should of covered more than they were willing to. ( site vendor ) Their beef with the whole deal was that I purchased the crank about a year and a half ago. Obviously I am the only one that has to save up to build one of these. I agree that it has taken a while but I didn't have all of the coin at one time to complete it. Lesson learned!!!
Clyde all of my parts should be here by Thursday, time to get to wrenching ( again ) hopefully I'll have it ready to be tuned next week.
Clyde all of my parts should be here by Thursday, time to get to wrenching ( again ) hopefully I'll have it ready to be tuned next week.
I called them up and of course they wanted me to send them the crank so that they could fix it. I told them thanks but no thanks since they already had 2 chances and screwed it up both times. I had the shop just fix it and be done with it. Car now starts up and runs decent. I gotta install the trans and exhaust this weekend and then have my tuner come back out and tune it.
At least it does run now. I guess the the moral of the story is check and double check, I've had to drop this engine 2 additional times because the MFG did'nt install correctly!
#52
Crazy but I did tell you early on to send it back, unfortunately it wouldn't have gotten fixed anyway. They have a rep for screwing the wheel install up.........insane if you ask me.
Oh by the way Congrats on following through and winning!
Oh by the way Congrats on following through and winning!
#54
Boy did he, For some reason I can't attach a video sorry. We still got a little work to do on it, as it was raining like pouring **** out of a boot here last night. Its about ready for a drive though, I had the front end aligned today .
#57
stangstomper68, Man I feel your pain pal mine had to come out 2 extra times. All that I can say is have someone that knows how to install it correctly with the proper tool to install it. I may have a couple pictures on my computer that shows it installed correctly if that helps. Also keep in mind that I was told by a Chevrolet technician that the max deflection is .025". And beleive me it does matter. If you need the pictures let me know.