Polluter Cam to big which pistons to go with
#24
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When I clayed it the valves were both just going right through touching the piston it wasn't enough to stop it from turning but they did leave a mark on the piston
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I ordered a degree wheel kit today figuring that's that only fool proof way of getting done. I'm just hoping that I over looked something somewhere and that's why I'm having so much trouble
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The only other thing that has crossed my mind is when I bought the car it already had some bolt ons ie: air lId, cat back, power programmer. I'm wondering if the previous owner put in the slp 1.85 rockers
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If you used 7.4 pushrods and ran the rockers the whole way down you are holding the valve open. Make sure you are on the base circle of the cam and back the rocker bolt off and watch the valve. I bet you will see it close.
#33
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I agree. Dot to Dot is Dot to Dot.
Cylinder #1 will be at TDC when the crank is at 12 o'clock and the cam is at 6 o'clock. It'll be on the exhaust stroke for cylinder #1 in that position and compression stroke for cylinder #6. 12 o'clock on both sprockets is the compression stroke for cylinder #1... etc.
Check to make sure you aren't a tooth off. That can screw up things.
Also, when you check PtV, make sure you are on the base circle of the cam and don't torque down the rocker. Just secure the rocker bolt by hand just enough to take any vertical play out of the valvetrain (0 lash). Do this with an adjustable pushrod checker and checker spring. Then go ahead and turn it over to check the clay. Don't force it if it snags - that means it's touching. If you can make a solid lifter, that would be best to ensure the hydraulic lifter isn't collapsing, but with the checker spring, I don't think you have to worry.
Cylinder #1 will be at TDC when the crank is at 12 o'clock and the cam is at 6 o'clock. It'll be on the exhaust stroke for cylinder #1 in that position and compression stroke for cylinder #6. 12 o'clock on both sprockets is the compression stroke for cylinder #1... etc.
Check to make sure you aren't a tooth off. That can screw up things.
Also, when you check PtV, make sure you are on the base circle of the cam and don't torque down the rocker. Just secure the rocker bolt by hand just enough to take any vertical play out of the valvetrain (0 lash). Do this with an adjustable pushrod checker and checker spring. Then go ahead and turn it over to check the clay. Don't force it if it snags - that means it's touching. If you can make a solid lifter, that would be best to ensure the hydraulic lifter isn't collapsing, but with the checker spring, I don't think you have to worry.
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I just bought the same cam, I get it today, hope I don't have the same problems, I'm going to be using 243 heads thou, what lifters are ok to use in this setup and what size pushrods are good to use? I'm use the truion kit on my rockers. Heads are not milled
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I haven't got to the garage yet but by what everyone is saying I probably have the rockers down to tight. I also measured my original pushrods this morning and they were 7.375 which seemed wierd I thought they all had 7.4s which I bought as replacements
#37
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You have to use an adjustable length push rod set at whatever length nets you zero lash with the tappet on the base circle of the camshaft.
If you use any length push rod that is longer than your zero lash length, or the rocker arm is tightened all the way down with the correct length push rod for proper pre-load it will show a decrease in P to V clearance and give you a false reading.
If you use any length push rod that is longer than your zero lash length, or the rocker arm is tightened all the way down with the correct length push rod for proper pre-load it will show a decrease in P to V clearance and give you a false reading.
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Thanks for all your help everyone! Got the car to the shop last night this morning I started with all the new info I got from everyone, just check the clearance and I have .070 and .110 using the 7.4 pushrods. Hopefully a video to follow this afternoon