Stock Rods
Usually, obvious stuff like discolored (black or blue) bores indicating excess heat or obvious damage in the bores, like scoring or pitting. Other than that, you would need a machinist to check them out to make sure they're straight and within tolerance.
My engine builder told me that the rod bearings were shot on some of them and that I should just replace them all. I'm just looking to replace with stock rods, besides here wheres a good place to find stock rods new or used. GM parts has them for about $80 a piece, I really wasn't looking to spend $500-$600+ on rods.
I was recently in this position, and decided to get forged rods and pistons. I was like you and wanted the cheapest route possible, but figured this was the only time I'd be digging into the motor like that, so I figured I'd just do it right this time. Just a thought...
My engine builder told me that the rod bearings were shot on some of them and that I should just replace them all. I'm just looking to replace with stock rods, besides here wheres a good place to find stock rods new or used. GM parts has them for about $80 a piece, I really wasn't looking to spend $500-$600+ on rods.
My engine builder told me that the rod bearings were shot on some of them and that I should just replace them all. I'm just looking to replace with stock rods, besides here wheres a good place to find stock rods new or used. GM parts has them for about $80 a piece, I really wasn't looking to spend $500-$600+ on rods.
Well he quoted me a set of Callies rods and said they were the only option besides stock rods that work with the factory pistons. For the money I've spent rebuilding my LS1 I should have just purchased a bigger block from Texas Speed from the beginning, but I really wasn't familiar with all of my options early in my build plans. I just don't wanna spend too much more money.
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If the original rods have a press-fit piston pin, you'll destroy the pistons trying to get them out.
I'd also say go for aftermarket rods and pistons as a set. It should also come with pins, locks rings and bearings. Any they'll certainly have better rod bolts than the GM rods.
You'll need to make sure the vender knows you're using the stock crank as they don't have chamfered rod throws and the bearings are different.
I'd also say go for aftermarket rods and pistons as a set. It should also come with pins, locks rings and bearings. Any they'll certainly have better rod bolts than the GM rods.
You'll need to make sure the vender knows you're using the stock crank as they don't have chamfered rod throws and the bearings are different.
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Well he quoted me a set of Callies rods and said they were the only option besides stock rods that work with the factory pistons.
Plenty of aftermarket rods that work with the stock pistons besides Callies.
The part that pisses me off most is I bought my car to them on January 27th, they finally touched the car and pulled the engine and tore it down last week. 5 months ago I was better equipped money wise to spend some extra cash if need be. Also he add $225 to pull the crank, that wasn't on the original rebuild quote. I thought that was a part of an engine build to pull everything apart and inspect it. WTF? I saw the SCAT rods on ebay new for about $330, what about the pistons any economical alternatives?
The part that pisses me off most is I bought my car to them on January 27th, they finally touched the car and pulled the engine and tore it down last week. 5 months ago I was better equipped money wise to spend some extra cash if need be. Also he add $225 to pull the crank, that wasn't on the original rebuild quote. I thought that was a part of an engine build to pull everything apart and inspect it. WTF? I saw the SCAT rods on ebay new for about $330, what about the pistons any economical alternatives?
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Thanks KCS, I see why you live in....THE WOODLANDS! Lol. Now I am at a crossroads do I take a chance with an $80 used set of stock rods and pistons off an engine with one spun bearing or should I spend $700 on the scat I beams and probe fps pistons?
Ok, I contacted Phil@AI about possibly doing a 383 stroker since he ported the 243's I sent him and matched a daily driver cam cant remember the size. He said I might want to step up to a cam thats a little larger or the powerband will be shifted downward. If I am possibly going to spend more money would this be a route you guys would suggest? The car will be mostly a weekend car, and I will probably take trips to Houston, and Destin FL. I tried to optimize my build to be the ultimate daily driver with great power but still have fuel efficiency. The build also includes a Ported 90/90 fast, LT headers,3600 Stall and an RPM LEV 5 4l60e. I'm going to talk to my builder today, but will stroking the motor affect what I want to accomplish drastically?
ow I am at a crossroads do I take a chance with an $80 used set of stock rods and pistons off an engine with one spun bearing
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Joined: Jun 2011
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From: Katy, TX
For the stroker, you will have to run aftermarket pistons and rods, and the pistons will be different than the ones for the stock crank.
I would not run a stroker in a stock sleeve motor as a daily driver.
I would not run a stroker in a stock sleeve motor as a daily driver.
You could meet in the middle and use the Probes on the stock press fit rods. That's what they're designed for, and unless you intend to use a power adder, that combo will work great.
It won't be a daily driver, but I think I'm am going to pass on stroking it. I guess $685 ain't bad for forged pistons and rods. Will that setup squeeze a few more ponies out?
Okay fellas I just spoke to my engine builder he said that he has a set of rods around his shop. He will put them in the car for 100 bucks, an that he would rather go that route than to put the scat rods in because he said he had trouble with them in the past and we will reuse the stock pistons since I'm never spraying the car. I also found out he has to replace the crank with one around the shop also. So ima just leave it at that for now.