Forged for Forced Induction?
Forged for Forced Induction? Im trying to figure out whether I should stay stock bottom or do a budget forged assembly. I might do a F/I setup next summer and someone here posted a video explaining the expansion of forged pistons, and the need for them to have room for the expansion when heated. It just seems like trouble with the loose clearance and all. Or should I just take a chance on 8 to 9lbs of boost, seems like some guys here are having luck with their stock bottoms?
Long as you keep the RPM down it really helps FI combos live and make good power with stock internals. A good rule of thumb is no more than 6500rpm and rod bolts are a good upgrade at this point.
I ran 9lbs on my completely stock 99 ls1 longblock. Stock trans, converter, and stock 10 bolt with 3.23's. It had 172k on it when the blower was installed. I kept the stock 6000rpm shift points and had it safely dyno tuned on 93 with no problems at all. I sold the car with about 230k on it and it was running beautifully. It made 450/438 on a dynojet in august summer heat with no meth or water injection. You just have to use a bit of common sense and pray for a little luck. lol
I think stock bottom is fine up to about 600whp. Several guys on here pushing their luck with 650-750 on stock bottom end LS1s. It just depends on how much power you want to make and how much you want to spend like said above.
I'm debating the same thing. I already have to hot side for my turbo build and I'm planning on using my ls1. I'm going to use ARP rod bolts for sure, but I'm not sure if that would be enough. If I can swing it I'll most likely get some eagle H beams and some pistons.
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Well I spoke to my engine builder, and asked him how much boost would he trust the stock rotating assembly to handle. He adv no more than 7 to 8 psi, and said it would get me 150 whp.
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