LQ4 build cam questions
LQ4 build cam questions Currently rebuilding a lq4 to go into my short box stepside reg cab
The truck has a 2400 converter 3.73 gears 28 inch tires weighs 3600
Kooks 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 headers to a single 4 inch exhaust
The plan is to hone the bores, line hone the mains, 0 deck the block
Arp bolts in the rods and resize them
Molly rings and coated bearings
Ls2 chain
Ls7 lifters and new guides
Standard volume oil pump
Ls9 head gaskets
holley hi ram with a 90 mm tb
Looking for some ported heads in the classifieds
Is a cam with about 225 intake 230 exhaust duration on 114 too big for the converter
The truck has a 2400 converter 3.73 gears 28 inch tires weighs 3600
Kooks 1-3/4 to 1-7/8 headers to a single 4 inch exhaust
The plan is to hone the bores, line hone the mains, 0 deck the block
Arp bolts in the rods and resize them
Molly rings and coated bearings
Ls2 chain
Ls7 lifters and new guides
Standard volume oil pump
Ls9 head gaskets
holley hi ram with a 90 mm tb
Looking for some ported heads in the classifieds
Is a cam with about 225 intake 230 exhaust duration on 114 too big for the converter
Shameless plug:
I cannot answer your question, but I will just toss this in here. I picked up an LS with a truck cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-54-452-11
I have it for sale for cheap if you're interested!
I cannot answer your question, but I will just toss this in here. I picked up an LS with a truck cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-54-452-11
I have it for sale for cheap if you're interested!
I wouldn't go any bigger than the one you have listed. A cam that will work great with that converter and weight would be something along the lines of 222 230 on a 111 lsa on a 111 centerline. Has 4 degrees of overlap and should be easy to tune. Will be a great cam for torque across the powerband.
Why are you messing with the bores and mains?
Why does it have a 2400stall? Is it some cheap 12" unit like a Dacco that cost the shop $60 and they charged you $200?
I would do a real converter 3000+ stall 9.5" unit before doing those things to the motor.
It will likely drive ok with the low overlap and that stall but at this point I feel a decent stall would be a better performance mod than the cam. Been there made these mistakes myself and am telling you you are making a mistake.
I know Tick has a post on how LSA means nothing and I understand it and am not disagreeing with it but the only time I would look at 114 LSA for a modest street vehicle would be emissions or turbo. For NA I like a bit more overlap. I understand that when the cam gets big enough 114 can still mean a lot of overlap, you are looking at a reasonable amount of duration.
Why does it have a 2400stall? Is it some cheap 12" unit like a Dacco that cost the shop $60 and they charged you $200?
I would do a real converter 3000+ stall 9.5" unit before doing those things to the motor.
It will likely drive ok with the low overlap and that stall but at this point I feel a decent stall would be a better performance mod than the cam. Been there made these mistakes myself and am telling you you are making a mistake.
I know Tick has a post on how LSA means nothing and I understand it and am not disagreeing with it but the only time I would look at 114 LSA for a modest street vehicle would be emissions or turbo. For NA I like a bit more overlap. I understand that when the cam gets big enough 114 can still mean a lot of overlap, you are looking at a reasonable amount of duration.
Why are you messing with the bores and mains?
Why does it have a 2400stall? Is it some cheap 12" unit like a Dacco that cost the shop $60 and they charged you $200?
I would do a real converter 3000+ stall 9.5" unit before doing those things to the motor.
It will likely drive ok with the low overlap and that stall but at this point I feel a decent stall would be a better performance mod than the cam. Been there made these mistakes myself and am telling you you are making a mistake.
I know Tick has a post on how LSA means nothing and I understand it and am not disagreeing with it but the only time I would look at 114 LSA for a modest street vehicle would be emissions or turbo. For NA I like a bit more overlap. I understand that when the cam gets big enough 114 can still mean a lot of overlap, you are looking at a reasonable amount of duration.
Why does it have a 2400stall? Is it some cheap 12" unit like a Dacco that cost the shop $60 and they charged you $200?
I would do a real converter 3000+ stall 9.5" unit before doing those things to the motor.
It will likely drive ok with the low overlap and that stall but at this point I feel a decent stall would be a better performance mod than the cam. Been there made these mistakes myself and am telling you you are making a mistake.
I know Tick has a post on how LSA means nothing and I understand it and am not disagreeing with it but the only time I would look at 114 LSA for a modest street vehicle would be emissions or turbo. For NA I like a bit more overlap. I understand that when the cam gets big enough 114 can still mean a lot of overlap, you are looking at a reasonable amount of duration.
When I rebuild a engine, I always make sure everything is square and true, it just makes sense, everything lasts longer and works better
2400 converter because this truck gets me to work every day, rain ,sleet or snow
It is a circle d 300mm and it drives like stock ( important to me for the 4 months of driving with the blizzaks on snow covered roads)
I'm not looking to be the fastest truck in town, but since I'm spending this much time and money on this I am trying to achieve a good ballance of performance and drivability
Those cam's (225/230 114lsa, and the 222/230 111lsa) are to big for that stall. You'd want to run a at least a 3k stall TC..
I'd Look at the SDPC HT1 truck cam (214/218 111lsa+3, lift .569"/.562") it uses fairly mild lobes and it has a 36 IVC an -6* overlap so it'll runs smooth but still have a noticeable cam sound. IMO, it should also work good with that 2400 stall TC. The largest cam I'd use with that stall is a 216/224 114 +4 cam.
https://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-...er/cc54-st1-11
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=5086
216/224 114lsa cam:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4926
I'd Look at the SDPC HT1 truck cam (214/218 111lsa+3, lift .569"/.562") it uses fairly mild lobes and it has a 36 IVC an -6* overlap so it'll runs smooth but still have a noticeable cam sound. IMO, it should also work good with that 2400 stall TC. The largest cam I'd use with that stall is a 216/224 114 +4 cam.
https://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-...er/cc54-st1-11
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=5086
216/224 114lsa cam:
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4926
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Aug 9, 2014 at 07:21 PM.
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At least the converter is a good brand but you still made a mistake in it. A 3000-3200 stall 9.5" unit from a good company like Circle D is fine for a year round daily driver. My Caprice is no longer a daily but a friend has his and her's modded Caprices and even his wife drives a cammed 3200stalled Caprice through Wisconsin winters.
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Here is a reply pulled from another thread on the same topic.
Cracked cap rods are not resized by the conventional method of grinding the parting lines to close up the vertical size then honing to spec. With a cracked cap rod you need bearings made over size so the rod bore can be honed to fit the over sized outside diameter bearing shells. In the case of the LS engines, that oversize is only .002" which is most likely going to be insufficient for a spun bearing rod housing bore to clean up. The .002" over sized bearings leave enough material to hone out of a rod housing bore to get a round bore (now .002" larger than a stock factory rod for use with these special bearings) to correct for distortion after installation of new rod bolts or for rods that are slightly out of round.
Steve
Nothing wrong with the 2400 stall TC if you're happy with it, but it's going to work best with smaller cam that has a lower power-band, an less overlap. I know that the Tick Street Heat Stage 1(225/228 | .61x”/.57x” | LSA112+3s) for some strange reason says the recommended TC stall be in the 2400-2800 range, but I wouldn't run that cam with anything less than a 3k stall. I'd contact Tick Performance and see what they recommend you run with you current stall in your truck.
Yeah don't get me wrong I agree, even with the smaller cams I recommended he would still benefit performance wise from a higher 3k-3200 stall TC in his truck. Still I can understand some reluctance to go with a higher stall TC in a DD truck, since mpg in a truck isn't anything to brag about in even in stock form, and IF he tows/hauls even more so. Still a Circle D 278 TC with the 2A option(3k-3200) would be the way to go with one of those larger cams; otherwise he'll need to stick with smaller cams.
What do you guys think about the Lunati 219/223 625/625 113
The g8 guys are using them with stock converters and making good power
Ported heads stock intake bolt-ons 440rwhp and running 11.80s
Will this cam work with cathedral heads?
The g8 guys are using them with stock converters and making good power
Ported heads stock intake bolt-ons 440rwhp and running 11.80s
Will this cam work with cathedral heads?
I'd still recommend getting you get at least a 2800 stall with the Lunati VooDoo #20540716 (219/223 112lsa+4, .625"/.625"). IMO, call Circle D ask them what size cam would work best with you 2400 stall TC, and what stall for the cams you've been looking at, and maybe they can shed some light on picking the right cam for your TC stall.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Aug 11, 2014 at 12:26 AM.
So I just got some Afr 210s from the ls1 tech classifieds today
Talked to circle d ,the lunati should work fine
I can't find any info on flow from the 1510 after .600, is it worth going that big(.625) or should I save the springs some wear and tear and stick around .600
Talked to circle d ,the lunati should work fine
I can't find any info on flow from the 1510 after .600, is it worth going that big(.625) or should I save the springs some wear and tear and stick around .600
I wouldn't worry about the additional lift, as long as the valve springs are rated to handle the .625" lift. FYI, it's not the lift but the ramp rates of the cam lobes that determines how aggressive the cam is. Those Lunati Voo Doo high lift lobes (ramp rate is 51* ) are less aggressive than Comp Cam XE-R lobes(ramp rate is 49*).
If you really want less lift and less aggressive cam lobes the take a look at the Cam Motion Titan I (218/222 112lsa+4, lift .586"/.578", ramp rate is 55*)
http://www.mcssl.com/store/cammotion/the-titan1
If you really want less lift and less aggressive cam lobes the take a look at the Cam Motion Titan I (218/222 112lsa+4, lift .586"/.578", ramp rate is 55*)
http://www.mcssl.com/store/cammotion/the-titan1
Machine shop said the block needs to be bored and the crank turned 10/10
So now I'm looking for some forged pistons, any suggestions?
Springs on my afr heads are good for .600, budget says I have to stick with them
So now I'm looking for a cam these springs can handle, in stock, can't wait for custom grind
Any cam gurus out there( Mamo, Martin, Pat g)
Want to get this cam ordered Monday
Titan 1 looks good
Any estimates on rwhp?
So now I'm looking for some forged pistons, any suggestions?
Springs on my afr heads are good for .600, budget says I have to stick with them
So now I'm looking for a cam these springs can handle, in stock, can't wait for custom grind
Any cam gurus out there( Mamo, Martin, Pat g)
Want to get this cam ordered Monday
Titan 1 looks good
Any estimates on rwhp?
If you 'd like to stick with a Lunati they also offers a VooDoo, #20540713 (217/223 113LSA+4, .549"/.549") cam.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4630
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4630
Machine shop said the block needs to be bored and the crank turned 10/10
So now I'm looking for some forged pistons, any suggestions?
Springs on my afr heads are good for .600, budget says I have to stick with them
So now I'm looking for a cam these springs can handle, in stock, can't wait for custom grind
Any cam gurus out there( Mamo, Martin, Pat g)
Want to get this cam ordered Monday
Titan 1 looks good
Any estimates on rwhp?
So now I'm looking for some forged pistons, any suggestions?
Springs on my afr heads are good for .600, budget says I have to stick with them
So now I'm looking for a cam these springs can handle, in stock, can't wait for custom grind
Any cam gurus out there( Mamo, Martin, Pat g)
Want to get this cam ordered Monday
Titan 1 looks good
Any estimates on rwhp?
For a daily driver though, you may be better off with a $250 set of hypereutectic pistons, like from Speed Pro. I have never used them for an LS, but you may only be able to use them with a pressed pin connecting rod, so keep that in mind.
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From: Ohio
i know this is off topic (sorry) but how do you create a post?..... Im in the beginning stages of turning a 95' camaro RS into a ss with a 6.0 in it, but i dont want to hog other people posts with my questions... if anyone can help please shoot me a message.
