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This is what the seals look like that come off after a few days. Near perfect and still the same ID as new ones.
What I see when they come off.
This time I made an extra effort to really whack the valves with a rubber mallet once its all back together and use a plastic tool to push around the inner spring to make sure its seated in the retainer and locator. Next step is to switch to the blue seals.
Mike Tooley here, I have been in contact with Jmargo via phone today, i also checked his springs for pressure. They still check good at 150lbs at 1.780 intall height. I didn't see any discrepancies in the springs he sent in.
I have also had chance to read through this post, first of all i would like to apologize for the issues you guys are having as we would like to figure out this issue as soon as possible.
I have installed hundreds of seals and have had zero issues with them pulling off, I have also used the same process for years. I use a prybar, a stock LS1 trunnion bolt, a fender washer, and a 12 point 12 mm 1/2 drive socket. These seals need to be properly lubed inside as well as the guide itself. I use clevite bearing guard lubricant, we've had really good success with it.
I spent some time today preparing a picture sample of what our process is.
Be real attentive to the angle of the seal, if it is not seated properly or has a rolled edge it will not work the way it was designed. These seals do have a stopping point inside the seal. The seal must go on a striaght as possible the whole way down, putting them on dry or allowing the to rock either way will put a rolled edge inside of the seal.
Stock 799 Head With Brown and Black Seals with no shimming.
After inspecting that the seal is seated properly this is the spacing that i came up with. (799 Head and locator only)
The tools i use Ampro T70031 spring compressor, 12 point 12mm 1/2 drive socket, fender washer and a ls1 trunnion bolt.
My AFR heads have ribs on the OD of the guide to hold the seals on.
Stock heads of course use the top hat seal that can't come off.
I didn't oil mine when installing. I suppose I should check to see if they are still on. Talking about my 5.3 with 799's.
But it kind of seems like oiling them would promote them slipping off?
Maybe scuff the OD of the guide with emery cloth to give the surface some "teeth" to hold the seal?
My AFR heads have ribs on the OD of the guide to hold the seals on. Stock heads of course use the top hat seal that can't come off. I didn't oil mine when installing. I suppose I should check to see if they are still on. Talking about my 5.3 with 799's. But it kind of seems like oiling them would promote them slipping off? Maybe scuff the OD of the guide with emery cloth to give the surface some "teeth" to hold the seal? Are others having this issue?
My AFR 205's had those nice ridges, but I did however oil them when I put them on. I had to do it twice Bc I got in a hurry and mixed up the browns and blacks. In a nutshell, mine were on and off several times and I had no issues.
Originally Posted by Jontall
After seeing this, I'm thinking a spring kit that uses PAC springs would be much better.
Springs have nothing to do with this thread. Go back under your bridge, troll.
Not sure what springs I have but they look very similar to yours.... I bought the heads used and when I tore them down the valve seals look like this....only the exhaust seals are damaged
Well just pulled the VC again. All pass sides are seated and 4 from the drivers side are up. 3 Exhaust and 1 intake. Gonna put an order in for some blue seals from BRT. Hopefully they will ship out quick.
Springs have nothing to do with this thread. Go back under your bridge, troll.
Love the butt hurt here.
And yes springs CAN actually do this. Have seen it many times from GM to Ford to Chrysler both SB and BB. It can happen when the springs go out of control and walk around. Not saying that this is the reason but it does happen.
Love the butt hurt here. And yes springs CAN actually do this. Have seen it many times from GM to Ford to Chrysler both SB and BB. It can happen when the springs go out of control and walk around. Not saying that this is the reason but it does happen.
No butt hurt here. My point was simply someone attempting to peddle PAC springs without any other knowledge of the situation seems ridiculous to say the least. Far be it from me to point that out.
Never in my response did I say springs CANT cause this, as I know good and well they can.
I should have updated this as well yesterday. I still have no smoke and pulled the driver side valve cover to have the front two springs checked at the machine shop. All of the felpro valve seals are still in place.
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