5.3 Parts list opinion
Hey guys I'm just looking at some opinions for my parts list, Its for my 5.3 that I got out of a 02 gmc yukon that was rolled over, supposedly has 140k miles. I talked to a shop and told them this is going into my 1980 swb C10 that weighs roughly 4500lbs, has a 5 speed and 3.73 rear gears. I told them I don't care for mileage and that the only other modifications that this 5.3 will have is going to be long tube headers and a hot air intake. They recommended a 226/228 .585/.588 114+4 camshaft with BTR .660 lift dual springs and Tool steel retainers. As well as possibly lifters if its a higher mileage motor. So from that I built this list so far
Camshaft- 226/228 .585/.588 114+4
BTR .660 lift dual spring kit with tool steel retainers
5/16" 7.400 Hardened Pushrods
LS7 Lifter Kit
Melling Hi Volume Oil Pump
GM LS2 Timing Chain
ARP LS1/LS6 Hex Head Bolt Kit
Stock 5.3 head gaskets
What other necessary gaskets should I replace? (intake, timing cover etc?) any of those necessary to replace?
Camshaft- 226/228 .585/.588 114+4
BTR .660 lift dual spring kit with tool steel retainers
5/16" 7.400 Hardened Pushrods
LS7 Lifter Kit
Melling Hi Volume Oil Pump
GM LS2 Timing Chain
ARP LS1/LS6 Hex Head Bolt Kit
Stock 5.3 head gaskets
What other necessary gaskets should I replace? (intake, timing cover etc?) any of those necessary to replace?
You are right on intake and timing cover. Some are reusable but 140K is pushing it. Lifter valley cover. Replace the knock sensors and the harness with the rubber plugs/wires while you have the intake off. Also build a circular wall of RTV around the knock sensor plugs to keep moisture out. You'll need water pump gasket or RTV or both. O-ring for throttle body, IAC, TPS if needed. Get the LS2 lifter trays..cheap insurance against a spun lifter. I advise header/exhaust studs. Cheap and those stock/regular bolts almost ALWAYS end up breaking off and causing a major PIA. Probably more but there's my $0.02.
The cam should work well but that's a generalization..where do you want to make power? In building the LS2 for the Jeep I wanted to turn some RPMs. Then I realized that no easily adaptable (truck type)stick had synchros to shift with an input shaft speed of much higher than 5,xxx RPM.
. So I'll probably end up with a cam designed for a truck.
. So I'll probably end up with a cam designed for a truck. Well it doesn't have to be right off idle I just read somewhere that a lower lsa is more suitable for heavier vehicles, this is going into a 4500-5000lb truck. On the other hand my first gear is a 4.02 and second is 2.32 So i'm not really sure. Guess I just wanted a second 'yeah that cam will work'' before I made the purchase.
If that's all you go by, yes, generally a lower LSA will bring the RPM down and give a lopey idle. There is more to it and any of the vendors here would be happy to take all of your info and point you to the right cam or spec a custom unit for you. Custom cams these days usually are priced within $50 of shelf cams so explore the option if you have a little time. My first gear is somewhere around 6:1 so it's not used.. Even though you have a low first, spinning it over 5500 will be fun but probably wont get you into second gear quickly or without grinding due to synchros. NV4500 or what?
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Yeah I'm talking to a couple shops as well as comp cams to figure out a camshaft for my build, a vender suggested that cam. It's actually a nv3500 which I'm sure will grenade sooner or later considering it's been beat on with the small cam 350 I'm replacing, which will eventually put me on the hunt for a 6 speed.
IMO, this cam would do a better job getting the 4500 lb truck moving!
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
If you're willing to go with a slightly smaller cam with a 110-111 lsa that would be better yet!
Like this:
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
If you're willing to go with a slightly smaller cam with a 110-111 lsa that would be better yet!
Like this:
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
IMO, this cam would do a better job getting the 4500 lb truck moving!
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
If you're willing to go with a slightly smaller cam with a 110-111 lsa that would be better yet!
Like this:
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
If you're willing to go with a slightly smaller cam with a 110-111 lsa that would be better yet!
Like this:
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
Torquemax stage 1 & your 226/228 114lsa+4 , or the 2 I posted..?
TRQ1 will have a slightly lower power-band and under the curve power and the overlap is almost the same vs the SH1v2.
The SH1v2 should make a little more peak Hp & Tq vs the TRQ1.
For a custom cam that's slightly smaller yet, but offers even better torque& low to midrange power: 221/222 110lsa+2
TRQ1 will have a slightly lower power-band and under the curve power and the overlap is almost the same vs the SH1v2.
The SH1v2 should make a little more peak Hp & Tq vs the TRQ1.
For a custom cam that's slightly smaller yet, but offers even better torque& low to midrange power: 221/222 110lsa+2
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Aug 27, 2014 at 06:03 PM.
Between your 226/228 114lsa+4 and the Trq1, 223/227 111lsa+2
226/228 114lsa+4, 43 IVC, with -1* overlap, with XE-R lobes
223/227 111lsa+2, 40.5 IVC, with 3* overlap, with LSL lobes
The Trq1 will have a power band about 200rpm lower, and stronger low to midrange power. The LSL cam lobes will make about the power as the XE-R lobes, but are slightly less aggressive and will offer better valve train stability. The valve lift is over .600" with the LSl lobes but it isn't excessive and anyway higher lift does NOT make the cam more aggressive. The Trq1 does have more overlap but at only 3* overlap it's still should be easy to tune and drive very well on the street. It will also have a more noticeable cam sound.
BTW, if you want slight milder cam lobes with slightly less lift the with the TRQ1, then get the milder version.
226/228 114lsa+4, 43 IVC, with -1* overlap, with XE-R lobes
223/227 111lsa+2, 40.5 IVC, with 3* overlap, with LSL lobes
The Trq1 will have a power band about 200rpm lower, and stronger low to midrange power. The LSL cam lobes will make about the power as the XE-R lobes, but are slightly less aggressive and will offer better valve train stability. The valve lift is over .600" with the LSl lobes but it isn't excessive and anyway higher lift does NOT make the cam more aggressive. The Trq1 does have more overlap but at only 3* overlap it's still should be easy to tune and drive very well on the street. It will also have a more noticeable cam sound.
BTW, if you want slight milder cam lobes with slightly less lift the with the TRQ1, then get the milder version.
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Aug 27, 2014 at 06:00 PM.
Between your 226/228 114lsa+4 and the Trq1, 223/227 111lsa+2
226/228 114lsa+4, 43 IVC, with -1* overlap, with XE-R lobes
223/227 111lsa+2, 40.5 IVC, with 3* overlap, with LSL lobes
The Trq1 will have a power band about 200rpm lower, and stronger low to midrange power. The LSL cam lobes will make about the power as the XE-R lobes, but are slightly less aggressive and will offer better valve train stability. The valve lift is over .600" with the LSl lobes but it isn't excessive and anyway higher lift does NOT make the cam more aggressive. The Trq1 does have more overlap but at only 3* overlap it's still should be easy to tune and drive very well on the street. It will also have a more noticeable cam sound.
226/228 114lsa+4, 43 IVC, with -1* overlap, with XE-R lobes
223/227 111lsa+2, 40.5 IVC, with 3* overlap, with LSL lobes
The Trq1 will have a power band about 200rpm lower, and stronger low to midrange power. The LSL cam lobes will make about the power as the XE-R lobes, but are slightly less aggressive and will offer better valve train stability. The valve lift is over .600" with the LSl lobes but it isn't excessive and anyway higher lift does NOT make the cam more aggressive. The Trq1 does have more overlap but at only 3* overlap it's still should be easy to tune and drive very well on the street. It will also have a more noticeable cam sound.
Also If i get the 223/227 111lsa+2 trq1 can I still use all the other stuff from the my list, the springs, retainers , push rods etc? Reading up on the LSL lobes is making me lean more towards the trq1
The BTR valve spring kit , PRs , etc.. will be fine with the LSl lobes.
Also 7.425" PRs are used more often than 7.4" PRs unless shorter head gasket and/or the heads are milled.
It's still is best to measure to verify the correct PR length, with any cam swap. Any shop doing the install should have the tools to verify the correct PR length to use in your engine.
pm sent .
Also 7.425" PRs are used more often than 7.4" PRs unless shorter head gasket and/or the heads are milled.
It's still is best to measure to verify the correct PR length, with any cam swap. Any shop doing the install should have the tools to verify the correct PR length to use in your engine.
pm sent .
Last edited by 99Bluz28; Aug 27, 2014 at 07:39 PM.
FWIW, I am 95% sold on the SNS/TorqueMax Stage 1 or 2. The CJ only weighs about 3100lbs but has numerically low gears and 33's at the moment so it acts like a much heavier vehicle. AND an SM465. Almost bulletproof but shifts like a dump truck..because it was originally designed for well..dump trucks. So I am hoping to have a lot of punch in the mid range and just not worry about >5500RPM until I go automatic and get some gears.

