Viscosity change
Since you're burning so much, use the cheapest Wally-World oil you can find. No sense wasting expensive semi-synthetic oil like M1.
Changing viscosity won't really change your brun rate. If your oil pressure is low when hot a 10W-40 might hold pressure better in that kind of heat. If your oil pressure is good, no need to change viscosities.
Changing viscosity won't really change your brun rate. If your oil pressure is low when hot a 10W-40 might hold pressure better in that kind of heat. If your oil pressure is good, no need to change viscosities.
Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 synthetic has done me right on LS1 and LS6 engines. It's stouter oil with a better anti-wear additive package.
edit: to clarify, it has helped with valvetrain ticking noise and oil consumption issues when running Mobil-1 5W-30. It will not restore That New Car Smell or perform any other miracles.
edit: to clarify, it has helped with valvetrain ticking noise and oil consumption issues when running Mobil-1 5W-30. It will not restore That New Car Smell or perform any other miracles.
Last edited by crainholio; Aug 29, 2014 at 11:21 AM. Reason: More info.
The Rotella being a diesel marketed oil is designed to cope with turbo heat and such which may well be a step in the right direction to slow oil burning. I would certainly try it.
Just to be clear while it is diesel marketed it is API approved for gas engines.
Might try something like AutoRX to clean things a little which might improve ring seal and reduce burning.
Just to be clear while it is diesel marketed it is API approved for gas engines.
Might try something like AutoRX to clean things a little which might improve ring seal and reduce burning.
