Been looking at a cam upgrade to get me in the 360hp range. Looks like best bang for the buck ("for me") is a 224/224 114LSA cam, but, that was/is old school threads/technology.

Now, fast(?) forward to 2014 and I was wondering if any new magical bumpsticks have come out on the horizon that stays in the 224 / 114SLA / .560 area that improves mileage HP and all that over the old trex cams and such? Yes, I know mileage should not be a concern, but, if they figured out a better way.... I just dont know, I have been down and out of the LS1 scene since 2009/10

 

I hear the 228r is good

 

I'd do something with either EPS lobes or an LSL/XE combo... 226/234 111+2. Pretty much an ideal camshaft for stock heads or stock heads decked down to about 62cc (~11:1 CR).

The EPS lobes are stable and make power. And the LSL/XE combo from Comp has a good lobe profile that makes good power.

The camshaft profile is good for the stock head's flow characteristics and the overlap is pretty much as much as you want to run and maintain very close to stock like drivability. The amount of overlap (8 degrees) is also good for producing power.

 

Not exactly how everyone is going to take this, lol, but, I do not want to go any farther past 224/224 114LSA . I was just wondering if anyone has seen, heard, felt and tasted results from something newer that gave the same amount of HP but better driveability. Heck, I dont even want THAT much of a cam, but, you gotta do what you gotta do. Since I am sticking with mostly stock LS1 stuff, maybe, just maybe port the heads myself and little, I probably could not use anything else.


I mean, according to the stock cam specs, they ave a 115/117 LSA? I would think 112 would be too tight, or, would that be loose, lol?
Thanks for listening to me whine...

Oh, and thanks for the info so far.

 

well lets start with this... why do you want a cam that smal? What are your grievances about going with something bigger

 

Also, tell us if your state has emissions testing and how often your willing to check your valve springs.

 

I am running the ole GT2-3 cam with home ported 241's. It makes good power and I get the same mileage as before the swap. I dd this setup over a 100 miles a day and still get 21-22mpg. It works very well with the stock converter also.

 

Bear with me as I am 4 beers deep in this response. Also, dont flame me as we all have diff goals. I have had an 2 LT1 and 3 LS1 camaros. hey all had diff HP curves but all in all they were around what I liked. After playing with them over a 6 year period, they did fall short of my wanted power/pull by an approx 40(?) HP. With that "experience" burned well into my cranial cavity, I want to take out the LS1 stock cam thats puts out 300hp and up the hp/torque to around 380ish. That should give me the added horses I look for +/- reciprocating HP parasitic loss. I dont race, I dont need to race, I just need a little more power. Anything more than that as far as I am concerned is not streetable. My god, if its any worse than my LT1 with 4.10's, well, that sucked ***** for traction. Yea, I know 400hp will be, but, the mide is where I was missing it. Anything in 1st under 30mph and it fried the tires, stock(?). Hence, I dont need anything bigger and I dont need anything sucking down more gas. I will also be running just about all stock equipment. I dont plan on and or want to spend more money on any upgrades except maybe a ring and pinion set. I was pretty happy with the LT/LS1 6-speed setups I had, n need to get/go overboard.



I have none and not very often. "set it and forget it" is about what I am going for.



Supposidly, people alwys talk they take a stck unit, ad exhaust and intake and get "better" mileage/drive-ability. I doubt I can do that, but, if technology in 2014 allows me, thats part of the goal also.



Hope that makes sense. 4 beers on an empty stomach makes for interesting replies.

 

TR220 cam made nearly 400 rwhp in a friends ls1 full bolt-ons through a 4k stall plus 243 heads

you wouldn't of never knew it had a cam

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...k-results.html

 

Read this sticky: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...-t-matter.html

I provided the profile I did because of the valve events, which would be much better suited to a near stock LS1 than the 224/224 114 you're interested in. Will the 224 drive better? No. It will be lazier and won't feel as fast. Nor will it be as fast.

Given your goal of wanting 380rwhp means going with ported heads, stock cam, and a FAST 102 with headers. It will drive exactly like stock and meet your power requirements.

 

^^^what he said lol. cams have come a long way in recent years. if all you want is 380 then what he said will get you there. the traction issue sounds like a suspension tire setup issue lol. My car with 440whp and 3.90s will dead hook with a good launch or dr's.

now with that said i think you could do an eps 222/226 on a 113 and have a really nice driver and meet your power goals if not exceed them witht the right supporting mods

 

Do to the op not wanting to upgrade anything more than necessary, and wanting a "set it and forget it" setup, I'd suggest the GM hot cam, BTR stage 3 truck cam, or something from Cam Motions drop in camshaft line.

 

I'd leave the stock cam in there. A set of PRC Stage 1 LS6 heads with LS6 springs, TSP 1-7/8" Headers, and a FAST 92... he'd be at 380-390rwhp. Perhaps a little more. It's a bit more of an investment, but I've seen guys do 400rwhp with AFR 205s, the LS6 cam, and no FAST. It's still cheaper than a supercharger and provides stock drivability... just with more power everywhere and the same reliability.

 

FYI there's still not magic cam, or magic short cut to making good power. It still takes a good combination of at least I/H/C/LT headers.
IMO, if you want to keep the cam size down the while still making good power I'd have the heads ported by AI or get a set of TSP PRC stage 2.5 5.3L heads, and also run a set LT headers. Then run a cam like the EPS 222/226 113lsa cam or if you want noticeable longer valve train life and are willing to give up a little bit of power for it, then get a Cam Motion cam which has milder cam lobes. This is figuring with you running a LS6 intake manifold or better.
FYI, higher cam lift doesn't a cam more aggressive, it the ramp rates of the cam lobes that dictates how aggressive the cam is. For example Comp Cam XE-R 224 lobe have .581" lift and are very aggressive lobes, but the Comp Cam LXL 222 lobes have .602" lift and are only mildly aggressive.

http://www.engpwrsys.com/index.php?a...od&productId=8

http://www.mcssl.com/store/cammotion...-compression-3

If the above cams are still bigger than you really want to run then conceder these, with upgraded heads:
This is the smallest one I recommend.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...-lift-212-218/
These are slightly larger.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...shaft-218-224/
FYI, VooDoo cam lobes are aggressive.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4630

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...16-224-115lsa/

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4926

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...e-rpm-216-220/

You could also do a custom grind from one of the sponsors here.

 

Again, thanks for taking the time to respond, I am taking everything into consideration. One thing to take into consideration is that I will barley have enough money to buy the car. Once I get it, I will be tied $$ wise to it for 3 years or more. So, unless I walk the street and start skng dk (which aint gonna happen), a cam will be all I can get away with, which I should not be doing anyways (because of $$) but this will probably be my last sports car (famous last words, ehy?), so...

Lets try this angle real quick.

Stage 1: With ALL stock parts, whats the most horses a stock setup would support in the 2k to 5800k rpm range with the computer being able to handle it without a tune?

Once I have that answer I will go to -->

Stage 2: biggest cam I can use, considered to be efficient and free flowing where the computer can adjust properly with no over rich condition, aka no tune?

Once that is answered, then comes -->

Stage 3: LS6 or tuck(?) intake

Stage 4: Shorty headers? NOT interested in LT's . I dont like the ground clearance issues and $$ exhaust work that will need to be done. If I find a deal on them, then maybe, just maybe, but, I do not feel like searching my life away for them to find something 60%+ off, so I am planning them out for now.

I am gonna search in here for some answers, not looking for someone to spoon feed me, but, would like some opinions just in case I cant find what I am looking for, thanks.

 

You are going to need to get the car tuned either way you decide to go. Why not just get a ls6 cam and a set of 243 heads? You will maintain the stock drivability and MPG's and make the power your looking for.

 

I have had a 224r-112 in my car for 3 years now and still love it. sounds nice, makes great power. Easy to DD too.

 

I've never had ground clearance issues with any of my longtubed cars. I just had a set of cheap pacesetters too. TSP has a sale of their headers right now as well, if $300 headers shipped to your door is too steep and you don't want to tune your car and you want to cam it AND aren't willing to pleasure guys for money, I wouldn't waste my time modding it.

 

By what you've said so far I would say install a SLP air filter lid, a high flow replacement muffler and call it done; at least for now. Later when you can afford to do it right move forward.