So everything is back from the machine shop.
Yeah it's fine. LS1's are like that stock. However, depending on the thickness of your head gaskets, it can be out too much. If you use a .051" thick gasket (stock), then you can be out as much as .015" and be ok.
You could save a ton if you just find an inexpensive stroker kit that comes with everything and they come balanced saving you lots of machine shop cost. I have noticed some 383's in here that are quite stout. If its a n/a motor you don't need cast pistons either. Hyper pistons don't move around as much for less wear.
Thats exactly what I needed thank you so by following this cart whats that give me for top of piston to deck surface im assuming its the stock valve correct?
Also how do I estimate piston to valve clearance? Im planing on just running 243 cylinder heads with some work done to the ports and better springs. Cam unsure about i know that plays the main role in piston to valve clearance but idk whats to much lift of a cam or a good cam for me.
Also how do I estimate piston to valve clearance? Im planing on just running 243 cylinder heads with some work done to the ports and better springs. Cam unsure about i know that plays the main role in piston to valve clearance but idk whats to much lift of a cam or a good cam for me.
If you decide to go with aftermarket pistons, the flattops usually will come with around -3cc reliefs, which will pretty much make PTV a moot point.
These are the pistons I got from Autotec. They are a custom 4.010 bore, and were spec'd to a custom weight to match the balance of the rotating assembly:

Valve clearance says what?
That's fine. As KCS said, it depends on what gasket you use, because you do have to maintain a certain clearance between the piston and cylinder head. I used a stock gasket on my 404 and my pistons came out of the hole .006". On the 5.3 I'm rebuilding for my dad's Impala, the pistons came out of the hole .003" and that is a 100% stock bottom end.







