I just got my ls1 block back from the machine shop and everything checked out. I need build idea's. I thought about just selling it all and getting a iron block due to the cost of putting a stroker kit in it but for how little power on all motor to me it doesn't make sense.

What im looking for is a nice street motor no sauce no forced induction and able to run on pump gas.

Also other things to note the crank is bad as of right now. I need to take it to get checked out to see if it's salvageable as rod 6 started to eat away at the crank. And the rods are bad. So planned on replacing with scat forged rods.
The cylinder bores are stock and have a fresh hone so thats where im at what are my options? thanks

 

What heads, cam, pistons rods should i look into? I thinking 243's on the heads and like I said above rods forged scat rods. Any input would be great!

 

You really should have chosen pistons before honing the block. Most aftermarket pistons are about .005" oversized, but there may be some stock bore stuff out there too. If it's still the standard bore and freshly honed, it probably wasn't honed using a torque plate so that's another missed opportunity.

I would just find some stock rods and pistons, add ARP rod bolts and new rings, then something like TSP's 233/239 cam. Without a power adder, you're probably not going to be making the power to really require forged anything. Use that money for ported 243's or a nice exhaust system/clutch/stall/gears instead.

 

I had asked the machinist to just check out the block so I could see if the block was good and he insisted that the stock bores where good enough that he just cleaned up the glaze on the cylinder walls.

 

yeah my my thinking behind buying the scat rods for 344 that forged rods that I dont have to worry about and id have to buy the stock rods then buy the arp bolts.

 

That means he didn't torque plate hone them, otherwise he would have had to remove more material. He may have even bumped the hone through just to clean it up and may not have even measured anything or checked taper and roundness. Hopefully he didn't charge you much.

 

But you will need to rebalance the crank with the scat rods and might even need to add a slug or two of tungsten ($40ea plus balancing).

 

My other question is when im shopping for connecting rods all I see is rod lengths of 6.125 and stock is 6.098 for piston what do I need to change to compensate this? or is it close enough to stock? Also pistons am I only looking for wrist pin size to whichever rods I choose and bore size for what my cylinder bore is and +-cc relief with the change in rod length? Im worried about piston to valve clearance!!!

 

Im already at the point were I would have to get a whole new set of rods regardless. And a balance is in my future no matter what. I still have to get the crank fixed aswell.

 

Stock rods are cheap and plentiful, especially the press fit pin style. The more desirable floating pin style still only go for like $75-80 all day in the classifieds section. With stock rods, pistons, and crank, why would you have to rebalance? Turning the crank probably won't even affect the balance unless it's totally FUBAR to where the crank should probably be replaced anyways.

 

I think you need to take a step back and figure out what you want to do. Right now, it seems like you are trying to piece this together without having the measurements that you need, which will have you back in the machine shop in no time.

Before buying rods and pistons, I would get that crank fixed first. If you wind up needing a new crank, then you don't want to have already limited your choices with rods and pistons you already purchased.

 

very true thanks I am going to call the crank specialist today.

And will report back what I find.

 

Good call.

With any build, you always start with the foundation and build up.

 

I know that I may be jumping all around but I am trying figure out my options. Have you heard 2005 3847 casting rods from a 6.0. floating wrist pin style are those a option to run as replacements for my ls1?

 

They are so long as you get the pistons for the floating wrist pins.

 

? not understanding that lst post

 

Those rods are an option to run as replacements in your LS1 so long as you get the later style pistons that accept floating wrist pins. You can't put a pressed-fit style piston on a floating style rod.

 

Yeah that I understand i wasnt going to try and put press fit pistons on floating rods lol

With changing the years do I need to also check the wrist pin to the top of the piston height? or are they the same?

 

I assume you are going aftermarket with the piston, correct?

If so, your wrist pin location will be determined by the stroke and rod length you choose to use. Just as an example, this is a list of off-shelf pistons offered through one company:



You can see where there are pistons for different rod length/stroke combinations. That is due to the location of the wrist pin.

 

Thats exactly what I needed thank you so by following this cart whats that give me for top of piston to deck surface im assuming its the stock valve correct?

Also how do I estimate piston to valve clearance? Im planing on just running 243 cylinder heads with some work done to the ports and better springs. Cam unsure about i know that plays the main role in piston to valve clearance but idk whats to much lift of a cam or a good cam for me.