Looking for ideas for car that won't fire...
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You're welcome. I'm sorry for your misfortune with this. Next time you have ANY reluctor work done send it to a crank shop and have it tack welded. Personally I'd be knocking down the doods door that installed your wheel. Obviously it was install wrong.
Also ALWAYS check the index before and after to be sure it was installed properly. You don't want to know how many times it happens.
Also ALWAYS check the index before and after to be sure it was installed properly. You don't want to know how many times it happens.
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From: Cleveland Ohio
You're welcome. I'm sorry for your misfortune with this. Next time you have ANY reluctor work done send it to a crank shop and have it tack welded. Personally I'd be knocking down the doods door that installed your wheel. Obviously it was install wrong.
Also ALWAYS check the index before and after to be sure it was installed properly. You don't want to know how many times it happens.
Also ALWAYS check the index before and after to be sure it was installed properly. You don't want to know how many times it happens.
When the company sent me a new reluctor wheel, the 2 wheel setup was welded together. Do you mean to tack it to the crank?
I fear that the reluctor wheel movement may have damaged the mounting surface for the reluctor on the crank. Unless they make different inside diameter reluctor wheels for solving this problem, I will need a new crank. I can't see it hitting anything in the motor, there was plenty of clearance, and not a single mark on the sensor where any contact was made.
All reluctor wheels on factory cranks or aftermarket have all been silver in color. When I got this back, it was brownish orange in color. So for the installation I think it may have been overheated which could cause it to not be as tight as it should. This is my only theory.
If I need a crank, that's 1k, then get it all rebalanced, head gaskets, and things I'm sure I am missing. I spent more than I should of in the first place, and it just keeps going
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Be sure its TACKED to the crank, you should be fine because the crank is harder than the wheel. There is NOWAY that wheel should have moved or come loose, It had to be installed improperly OR not checked for a proper fit.
The shop that did the reluctor wheel owes you mucho denaro, I'd be calling them before doing anything!
The shop that did the reluctor wheel owes you mucho denaro, I'd be calling them before doing anything!
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From: Cleveland Ohio
Be sure its TACKED to the crank, you should be fine because the crank is harder than the wheel. There is NOWAY that wheel should have moved or come loose, It had to be installed improperly OR not checked for a proper fit.
The shop that did the reluctor wheel owes you mucho denaro, I'd be calling them before doing anything!
The shop that did the reluctor wheel owes you mucho denaro, I'd be calling them before doing anything!
Either way I have to tear it down. I was planning on tearing it down to see if it hit anything, but there is nothing for it to come in contact with.
If it spun enough on the crank to wear it down, I will have to measure the mounting diameter on this Callies crank, and then contact them to see what they say the exact diameter should be. If all reluctor wheels are the same and the crank isn't what it should be, i'm not sure it would be smart to even tack it to the crank. Then I need another crank.
I will call tomorrow hopefully and see what he says. What sucks besides my whole engine deal, is this is also the same person who will be doing a 540 dart for my bro, and can't have bad feelings towards his build aswell. I am already hearing about if I bring this up and he gets pissed, that my bro won't get a deal on his build. But this is not a $1500+ pill that I want to choke down that shouldn't have happened. Should be very interesting. I would have rather blown the tranny or rear end than this mess.
I think the starter issue is that since the engine wouldn't fire and jump to at least idle rpm, that the starter wheel couldn't pull itself out. another theory.
Last edited by BlackDuk98; Sep 25, 2014 at 10:20 PM.
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Well maybe he will stand up and make it right. I wouldn't let him do the wheel again though, use Eagle or Callies and check it for indexing when you get it back. That wheel has to be uber tight on the crank and be checked carefully for run out.
If he gets pissed for Christ sakes move on. Lots of other good people out there that stand behind heir work. Honestly this is cut and dry. If it were mine he'd be doing ALL the rework or meet me in court.
If he gets pissed for Christ sakes move on. Lots of other good people out there that stand behind heir work. Honestly this is cut and dry. If it were mine he'd be doing ALL the rework or meet me in court.
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Just tell him what you told us. If the guy doesn't stand up behind his work, there's no such thing as a good deal with him. Hopefully he's willing to make it right one way or another. If not, I'd strongly urge your brother to find another builder if I were in your shoes. If he "get's pissed", even more reason. That's not the kind of person/business I like to give my money to.
Hope he does the right thing and at least refunds you what you paid for the job. **** happens, it's how it's handled that makes a difference and builds or breaks a business/friendship/marriage or what have you.
Hope he does the right thing and at least refunds you what you paid for the job. **** happens, it's how it's handled that makes a difference and builds or breaks a business/friendship/marriage or what have you.
