I picked up a brand new melling high volume 10295 oil pump cheap. Ive heard more bad that good about this pump. For a fairly mild build would I be safer to buy an SLP or TSP ported/high pressure pump?

 

10295 is standard volume, high pressure spring installed by default. Mine came with standard pressure spring too. It's from their performance line... Seemed like good quality all around. What are your concerns?

 

Best oil pumps out is schumanns...... available at the car shop by Tim.

 

Nothing wrong with it, I run one in mine

 

[QUOTE=aaronc7;18554254]10295 is standard volume, high pressure spring installed by default. Mine came with standard pressure spring too. It's from their performance line... Seemed like good quality all around. What are your concerns?[/QUOTE
I was not aware the 10295 was not H/V. Ive read the HV can suck the pan dry. But ive heard that mellings are more prone to failures that a ported LS6 pump. Which would you go with? (3.905",rear cam oil galleries have been machined(connecting the two galleries), mild cam,228R possibly, and stock or ported 243's. LS7 lifters.

 

I'm not the subject matter expert, but from what I've gathered in my hours of searching and reading is that 10295 is what most people will want. 10296 is better for guys with rebuilt motors with looser bearing clearances or other applications that need significantly more oil flow/volume.

I haven't seen anything convincing that Melling's pumps are more prone to failure than GMs. Vendor that I bought my pump from sells both and recommended Melling for better all around quality if nothing else.

At the end of the day stock LS6, ported LS6, or 10295 will work fine for most of us.

 

Also, mine (bought secondhand never used) didn't come with the extra spring but did come with 2 o rings. I also have a brand new f body oil pan kit from gm with gm o ring. Which o ring should use? I'd think the GM one ???

 

I have ran 2 melling 10295's without issue and just installed another in a 383 that i am building. I reccomend that whatever pump you get you inspect it and flush it before installing just to make sure there arent any metal flakes in there that could get in your oil

 

I use the 10296 high volume with the standard pressure spring!

 

Yeah I would use whatever came with the oil pickup tube... it should be apparent which o ring is that one you need to use.

 

Ok thank you. How do I go about flushing it

 

I just dumped some acetone down it first, wiped it out with a detail cloth and then poured some clean oil in. I lubed the gerotors with assembly lube. Mine seemed to be clean but have heard some stories of pumps that were full of crap

 

Just an FYI . I've read quite a few threads where the OP had oil pressure issues and many of those it was apparent that debri meandered it's way into the over-pressure relief cylinder and caused a stuck OPR cylinder condition which instantly leads to a 0 oil pressure condition which is basically instant death for bearings and crankshafts . My vote is for Schumanns oil pumps with the large ball bearing OPR valve which virtually eliminates the previously described conditions . Having said that I have never owned a Schumanns oil pump but plan to when I can afford 1 . I believe They are right at $175 . I've also had the thought that just putting the correctly sized ball bearing and correct length and pressure spring in place of the cylinder would work fine and I may attempt to do this in the near future . If and when I do I certainly will post results good or bad

 

Old thread, but since it's been brought up, I always disassemble, clean, and lubricate the oil pump before it goes in the engine. I've installed a bunch of Melling pumps and never had one problem with them. I've got the 10296 in my Trans Am and the 10355 going into my LS swapped Mustang.

 

10295 in my road race E36 M3, maintains 60psi oil at 6500rpm of 15-50 M1, 250* oil temps. Best pump around.

 

10296 with high-pressure spring, myself.

None of you guys bother to use the feeler gauges and set clearance on the oil pump around the crank? I have been doing this but can't say it made any difference. Recommended procedure by GM.

 

I have been doing it as well, haven't had any
problems so I will continue to do it, doesn't
take long. LS6 pump for me.

 

I do, or sometimes I use a couple strips of paper since three .002/.003" feeler gauges can get easily lost. I've seen some of the oil pump gears have a line worn around their OD, which I've always assumed is from not properly centering the pump.

 

Wouldn't you want 'high pressure'? as a 'high volume' pump would flow more and run your oil pan dry?

 

I haven't had pressure drop on the Jeep with the high volume and high pressure. It's 18% more advertised, BTW. I don't think that's enough to cause such a problem. The only problem I have encountered is that I seem to have a weak seal around the back corner of the pan and when I run RPMs up when the oil isn't totally hot it will weep a bit. I am going to change the pan gasket and re-assess.

On the V build, I've just received my crank scraper, windage tray, racing baffle from Improved Racing so I expect to have a lot more oil on the pickup than before. By the time I really hit the track I will probably have an Accusump installed as well but hoping that it will be one of those things I have and don't actually need.