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Crank hp limit?

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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 08:06 AM
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Default Crank hp limit?

I'm gonna be building 2 LQ4s. One for the wifes 94 Impala SS and one for my sons 01 Z28. Both will be built pretty identical. I'm shooting for about 450rwhp and both have nitrous. Will probably use a 150 shot.

My internal plan is forged pistons & rods. But I have 3 24x Cranks and one 58x crank. All need turned and aren't worth a damn to sell as is. But a forged crank is also a grand.

Thoughts?
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 08:42 AM
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How big is the rock you live under?
That isn't even a concern for an LT1 much less an LS, guys are running stock short blocks 700+rwhp as a matter of routine. Guys have crested 1000rwhp.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 09:43 AM
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Edit. Thank God for the ignore option.

Last edited by SAPPER; Jan 7, 2015 at 09:48 AM.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 09:50 AM
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For the power you're looking to make, a stock crank will work just fine. Depending on what happened to the cranks, you can typically clean up the journals turning them .010". But again, it depends on what happened to the cranks. If they had a spun bearing, it may take .020". Once turned properly, you'll be able to easily support the power you're looking to make.

Let us know if we can help you with any of the parts for both builds...bearings, pistons, rods, bolts, gaskets, etc. We keep everything in stock and ready to ship!

Thanks!
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 10:11 AM
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Yeah, I sprayed the hell out of a 1995 GM 454 cast crank in a home built 502. Like your situation, I had it laying around and while it could have been polished and balanced, I had a very good crank grinder take it .010"/.010".
The factory strengthens them with the rolled fillets on each journal.
Mine looked really nice after the grind and radii dressing. This requires someone who does much more than remove the .005" of surface material but also pays critical attention to how they dress the edges/shapes of their grinding wheels. Again my guy is in his seventies and has been at it for more than five decades....currently enjoying that blessing to have him local.
While I was only making around 625 flywheel and in the neighborhood of 875 on a .093" jetted plate, I believe the success I had with the GM cast crank was the accurate machining/balancing as well as a relatively low rpm of 6500...
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 10:35 AM
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These will need .010/.010 on the 24x and the 58x will need at least .020 if not become scrap. All were hurt on the front mains.

TSP, you always get my business. I've been a customer with you guys since I've been a member on here. Ahhh, the good ol days.

Gonna be ordering a header/y-pipe kit soon for his birthday. I'm on the search for pistons right now. Trying to find exactly what I want.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 11:27 AM
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Originally Posted by SAPPER
Edit. Thank God for the ignore option.
He was right, why the ignore?
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 11:54 AM
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Ive heard the stock crank can hold 1000hp. Don't know if its true though
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 12:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 96capricemgr
How big is the rock you live under?
LMFAO, that's what I was thinking!
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 12:29 PM
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Holding and lasting is two different things. But after a little more research, I think i'll be ok.
I was just getting a consensus of a few others that are in that realm running a stock crank.
I don't spend my life revolving on LS builds so I fall back on the new latest and greatest things out there. I spend most of my time with my kids and racing MX. So after a few months of not looking at a car forum, I get to catch back up every so often. But I can still rebuild an LS or LT blindfolded. Besides, I look at GM engines all day, 5 days a week.

Ironblocked-
Hang around a while, you'll understand.
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Old Jan 7, 2015 | 06:46 PM
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GM will tell you the stock crank and rods are good to 600 hp. We have guys here pushing 850 with no problems and a few turbo quys hitting about 1100hp.

I am planning 900 or so hp and plan to use the stock crank. I will replace the rods and pistons. Pistons are the weak part of the rotating assy.
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