2000 LM7 Rebuild Info Needed
2000 LM7 Rebuild Info Needed So I am building a 1950 Chevy truck and wanted to put a newer LS power plant in it. I made the mistake of buying a take out engine off of craigslist and got burned. I was told the engine was a good runner and it probably was at some point. I had the engine mocked up in my chassis in my garage for a year before I decided it was time to freshen up the gaskets since it supposedly had 180K miles on it. I pulled the heads and found water and rust in 4 cylinders. It looks like the guy left the motor to sit outside for a while. Even the place with the knock sensors was full of water and corrosion.
Now I am in a place where I need to build the whole thing but I have zero knowledge. I am fortunate that my dad owns a shop and his main tech will build my motor on shop down time so the labor is free but I need parts. The machine shop is going to fix the block and heads but I need to buy all the gaskets, bearings, pistons, rings, and head bolts. This will mostly be a stock build that I want to keep the cost down on.
What brands would you guys recommend and can I get all of that in one kit?
Now I am in a place where I need to build the whole thing but I have zero knowledge. I am fortunate that my dad owns a shop and his main tech will build my motor on shop down time so the labor is free but I need parts. The machine shop is going to fix the block and heads but I need to buy all the gaskets, bearings, pistons, rings, and head bolts. This will mostly be a stock build that I want to keep the cost down on.
What brands would you guys recommend and can I get all of that in one kit?
12 Second Club
Joined: Feb 2014
Posts: 221
Likes: 0
From: Jacksonville, FL
I know there are complete rebuild kits on ebay from $500-$1,500. Not sure of the quality though.
Chevrolet GMC Isuzu Truck 5.3L VORTEC Engine Rebuild kit 2005-2006 LM7 RCC325CP
Priced at $737
Comes with;
Pistons
Piston Rings
Rod bearing set
Main bearing set
Cam bearing set
Full gasket set
Timing set
Oil pump
Freeze/expansion plugs
*Edit Spelling*
Chevrolet GMC Isuzu Truck 5.3L VORTEC Engine Rebuild kit 2005-2006 LM7 RCC325CP
Priced at $737
Comes with;
Pistons
Piston Rings
Rod bearing set
Main bearing set
Cam bearing set
Full gasket set
Timing set
Oil pump
Freeze/expansion plugs
*Edit Spelling*
If you are boring and buying new pistons anyway, keep in mind that the iron 5.3 can be bored right out to a 5.7. Might even find some decent used 5.7 pistons and be /cheaper/ going that route. Have your engine builder verify that everything but the bore is the same on the pistons, but even if you had to buy them, you still get more displacement for around the same $$ IMO.
(what kind of block is this?)
(what kind of block is this?)
It would probably run ok but a tune would be necessary to reap all benefits(and even stock bore motor should have a proper tune to run truly well). For same $$ I wouldn't pass up the opportunity for extra cubes. It occurs to me that the stock ECM is designed to run at sea level or 10,000 feet and that makes a bigger difference in air density and power than .4 liters(out of 5.3) at same altitude. But I am not a tuner so get some other opinions. If you are *really* tight on budget you could get a mail order tune for fairly cheap to get you most of the way there.
Seems like if you can go with used LS1(5.7) pistons, you save enough to get a tune.
Seems like if you can go with used LS1(5.7) pistons, you save enough to get a tune.
Last edited by Mercier; Jan 31, 2015 at 08:52 AM.
I am definitely going to talk about this option with my machine shop.
I jumped the gun when I bought the motor and sent my PCM right to lt1swap.com for the mail order tune so its tuned for the 5.3. I want to get a real tune when the vehicle is finished which will be a while since its a frame up custom build. My concern about the tune comes from me wondering if a 5.3L tune on a 5.7L is going to make it run crappy when I am doing all my post engine installation tests. I'd also hate to grenade a new motor by it running too lean when I do all my post build shake down drives before I take it to a real tuner.
I jumped the gun when I bought the motor and sent my PCM right to lt1swap.com for the mail order tune so its tuned for the 5.3. I want to get a real tune when the vehicle is finished which will be a while since its a frame up custom build. My concern about the tune comes from me wondering if a 5.3L tune on a 5.7L is going to make it run crappy when I am doing all my post engine installation tests. I'd also hate to grenade a new motor by it running too lean when I do all my post build shake down drives before I take it to a real tuner.
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Well gentile men, I'm going to build this motor instead of replace it. My uncle has been building engines for decades and was going to build this one for me but he had a stroke. The engine has been sitting waiting for him but he isn't recovering well and it could be a year before he can do it. So I think I might try it myself.
My dad owns a small auto repair shop and the machine shop he uses for his work gave me a good price to do the heads and all the machine work to the block if I bring it bare. I know I can tear it down with no problem but can I get it together correctly.
So the question is... Do you experienced LS builders think an average joe who has never built an engine but has access to pro tools could do this job? What things should I know about that are different than the old SBC engines? I ask that because the SBC seams to be fairly easy to reassemble and I will have people around who have done those.
My dad owns a small auto repair shop and the machine shop he uses for his work gave me a good price to do the heads and all the machine work to the block if I bring it bare. I know I can tear it down with no problem but can I get it together correctly.
So the question is... Do you experienced LS builders think an average joe who has never built an engine but has access to pro tools could do this job? What things should I know about that are different than the old SBC engines? I ask that because the SBC seams to be fairly easy to reassemble and I will have people around who have done those.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 79
Likes: 7
I think you can do it. You have family experience in the auto industry. Helps as one learns more than one thinks just hanging around. BG
Also willing to ask questions and take advice is a biggy. Tools can be an issue. You will need a three prong puller for the harmonic balancer to get the motor apart. A set of torque wrenches and a protractor for the heads and rods. A ring compressor and some guide rods for getting the crank in place with out nicking it. Some get by without the guide rods. A lot of patience helps. This board is a great resource. If you don't get in a hurry and plan well I am sure you could build your motor.
Rick
Also willing to ask questions and take advice is a biggy. Tools can be an issue. You will need a three prong puller for the harmonic balancer to get the motor apart. A set of torque wrenches and a protractor for the heads and rods. A ring compressor and some guide rods for getting the crank in place with out nicking it. Some get by without the guide rods. A lot of patience helps. This board is a great resource. If you don't get in a hurry and plan well I am sure you could build your motor.
Rick
Thanks Papermachtech. I have the puller and the torque wrenches but is the protractor something special or just a regular protractor like we used me high school math? We also have a ring compressor. What are guide rods?
I'll keep asking questions on here as I go. I still need to finish tear down so I can get the block to the machinist.
I'll keep asking questions on here as I go. I still need to finish tear down so I can get the block to the machinist.
Well today I completely tore the engine down so it can go off to the machine shop. The rust in the #2 cyl was bad so I am sure I'll need a bore and thus new pistons. I do have a few questions for you guys.
1) There is a hair sized scratch on the cam from removal. I was told I could clean it up with emery cloth. Do I need a new cam? Its very fine but I can see it and very lightly feel it with a finger nail.
2) All 16 lifers were stuck to the point that I couldn't pull them out with my fingers. I had to lightly tap them out the bottom. I am sure the machine shop will clean all the carbon out of the bores but do I need new lifters? My uncle said he was told to use new lifers for every build. He also said that I should get new push rods and rockers everytime too. I can reuse this stuff right? All the rollers in the lifters spin nice, they were just hung up lightly in the carbon.
Thanks for your help, I'll keep everyone posted on what happens next.
1) There is a hair sized scratch on the cam from removal. I was told I could clean it up with emery cloth. Do I need a new cam? Its very fine but I can see it and very lightly feel it with a finger nail.
2) All 16 lifers were stuck to the point that I couldn't pull them out with my fingers. I had to lightly tap them out the bottom. I am sure the machine shop will clean all the carbon out of the bores but do I need new lifters? My uncle said he was told to use new lifers for every build. He also said that I should get new push rods and rockers everytime too. I can reuse this stuff right? All the rollers in the lifters spin nice, they were just hung up lightly in the carbon.
Thanks for your help, I'll keep everyone posted on what happens next.
So hopefully you guys can help me with the questions I posted yesterday. Here is a picture of the rusty cylinder.
You can see its rusty. I got the piston out but I know its going to have to go .030 over.
You can see its rusty. I got the piston out but I know its going to have to go .030 over.
On The Tree
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 143
Likes: 0
From: Lincoln, CA
Were you still looking to have it bored out to 5.7l? If so, I would think that would more than take care of any possible problems from the rust...
Can you post up a picture of the cam shaft scratch? It'd probably be better to just replace it with an aftermarket cam since you already have the engine torn down this far anyways. If you want to stay with the stock cam, and yours in scratchd too badly to re-use, you can always pick up another one dirt cheap since that's usually one of the first things most of us change out.
I've got a 2000 lm7 myself that I'm acquiring parts for a budget buildup. I'm debating on whether I should just go ahead and do a full rebuild while I'm at it and will be watching to see how yours goes. Good luck and keep the photo updates coming
Can you post up a picture of the cam shaft scratch? It'd probably be better to just replace it with an aftermarket cam since you already have the engine torn down this far anyways. If you want to stay with the stock cam, and yours in scratchd too badly to re-use, you can always pick up another one dirt cheap since that's usually one of the first things most of us change out.
I've got a 2000 lm7 myself that I'm acquiring parts for a budget buildup. I'm debating on whether I should just go ahead and do a full rebuild while I'm at it and will be watching to see how yours goes. Good luck and keep the photo updates coming
2) All 16 lifers were stuck to the point that I couldn't pull them out with my fingers. I had to lightly tap them out the bottom. I am sure the machine shop will clean all the carbon out of the bores but do I need new lifters? My uncle said he was told to use new lifers for every build. He also said that I should get new push rods and rockers everytime too. I can reuse this stuff right? All the rollers in the lifters spin nice, they were just hung up lightly in the carbon.
The pushrods are weak, but reusable with the stock cam. Normally in a performance application, you want to upgrade the pushrods.
The rockers are reusable as well. Just clean them real well and soak them in oil before you put them on. I do that to make sure the roller bearings have oil when they go in the engine. The aftermarket also has a roller bearing trunion upgrade available for the rockers which is recommended for a performance application.
When it all goes back together, be sure everything is lubricated. I can't stress that enough; you don't want to start up an engine dry. Aside from oiling the individual parts like I already mentioned, I use an assembly lube, preferably CMD, on the pushrod tips and the valve stem tips as well.
No. I am just going to go with what ever the machinist suggests. I was hoping to reuse the stock pistons but that won't happen how. New ones will come with the rebuild kit and I'll use those. I'll keep posting as I go.
I am sending the crank in too but it looks pretty good. Hopefully I can polish that cam but I'll grab a picture today. Does the machine shop have to polish the scratch out or can I do it with an emory cloth or something?
I might just go with the new lifters but if I can save these I will. I'll take your advice and clean them up good inside and out. I will also clean the push rods too. My rockers seem to all be good and have good movement so I plan to use those too if I can.
This is going to be a close to stock power build. I was going to use the engine as is until I found the rust. I am wanting a reliable rebuild without breaking the bank. Finding the balance of not cutting corners and not spending a fortune is hard when its your first engine build.
That would probably polish out. I'm guessing from all the rust, you're going to need to have the crankshaft ground and polished as well, so I'd send the cam along with it. I don't think new cam is necessary.
New lifters wouldn't be a bad idea, but if you resuse the ones you have, I would at least disassemble them and clean everything out real well. There's a clip where the pushrod sits; remove it and all the guts come out. Just be sure to put everything back in the way it came out. Check the roller to make sure it doesn't stick either and oil them really well before you reinstall them.
The pushrods are weak, but reusable with the stock cam. Normally in a performance application, you want to upgrade the pushrods.
The rockers are reusable as well. Just clean them real well and soak them in oil before you put them on. I do that to make sure the roller bearings have oil when they go in the engine. The aftermarket also has a roller bearing trunion upgrade available for the rockers which is recommended for a performance application.
When it all goes back together, be sure everything is lubricated. I can't stress that enough; you don't want to start up an engine dry. Aside from oiling the individual parts like I already mentioned, I use an assembly lube, preferably CMD, on the pushrod tips and the valve stem tips as well.
New lifters wouldn't be a bad idea, but if you resuse the ones you have, I would at least disassemble them and clean everything out real well. There's a clip where the pushrod sits; remove it and all the guts come out. Just be sure to put everything back in the way it came out. Check the roller to make sure it doesn't stick either and oil them really well before you reinstall them.
The pushrods are weak, but reusable with the stock cam. Normally in a performance application, you want to upgrade the pushrods.
The rockers are reusable as well. Just clean them real well and soak them in oil before you put them on. I do that to make sure the roller bearings have oil when they go in the engine. The aftermarket also has a roller bearing trunion upgrade available for the rockers which is recommended for a performance application.
When it all goes back together, be sure everything is lubricated. I can't stress that enough; you don't want to start up an engine dry. Aside from oiling the individual parts like I already mentioned, I use an assembly lube, preferably CMD, on the pushrod tips and the valve stem tips as well.
I might just go with the new lifters but if I can save these I will. I'll take your advice and clean them up good inside and out. I will also clean the push rods too. My rockers seem to all be good and have good movement so I plan to use those too if I can.
This is going to be a close to stock power build. I was going to use the engine as is until I found the rust. I am wanting a reliable rebuild without breaking the bank. Finding the balance of not cutting corners and not spending a fortune is hard when its your first engine build.
Update and Questions.
So my block is done at the machine shop and it sounds like I can reuse the stock pistons after they clean them up. I haven't gone and picked up the block and heads yet. I ended up just buying a replacement cam from GMpartsdirect.com for $220 along with a lot of the other parts I needed. I didn't buy lifters yet.
I have found that GM has decided that we should use the LS7 lifters for all LS engines and I found them at summit racing for cheaper than GMpartsdirect.com. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...9225/overview/
I was debating getting the aftermarket lifters with the connecting rods to prevent lifters turning but I am not sure its needed for a stock build then the last ones went 200K miles fine. What do you all think? Some of those are just really expensive compared to the GM ones. At this point I have so much money in I am afraid to spend too much more or my budget will break.
If I go with the GM ones, which lifter trays should I use and where can I get them? I read on the forum that the LS2 lifter trays are better. Is that true? Whats the part number on those?
Thanks guys. I'll have pics with my next update because it will be reassembly.
So my block is done at the machine shop and it sounds like I can reuse the stock pistons after they clean them up. I haven't gone and picked up the block and heads yet. I ended up just buying a replacement cam from GMpartsdirect.com for $220 along with a lot of the other parts I needed. I didn't buy lifters yet.
I have found that GM has decided that we should use the LS7 lifters for all LS engines and I found them at summit racing for cheaper than GMpartsdirect.com. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/na...9225/overview/
I was debating getting the aftermarket lifters with the connecting rods to prevent lifters turning but I am not sure its needed for a stock build then the last ones went 200K miles fine. What do you all think? Some of those are just really expensive compared to the GM ones. At this point I have so much money in I am afraid to spend too much more or my budget will break.
If I go with the GM ones, which lifter trays should I use and where can I get them? I read on the forum that the LS2 lifter trays are better. Is that true? Whats the part number on those?
Thanks guys. I'll have pics with my next update because it will be reassembly.
I am hoping one of you guys can answer a question for me before I reassemble my engine this weekend. I bought a book with instructions for the build.
The book calls for Fastener Assembly Lube for torqueing bolts properly. All I could find was the ARP stuff. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9909
I bought the ARP lube but all they say is for high performance applications and with ARP bolts. Can I use this safely with new stock torque to yield bolts? And do I use this on things like header bolts and accessory drive bolts?
The book calls for Fastener Assembly Lube for torqueing bolts properly. All I could find was the ARP stuff. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9909
I bought the ARP lube but all they say is for high performance applications and with ARP bolts. Can I use this safely with new stock torque to yield bolts? And do I use this on things like header bolts and accessory drive bolts?
I am hoping one of you guys can answer a question for me before I reassemble my engine this weekend. I bought a book with instructions for the build. How to Rebuild GM LS-Series Engines (S-A Design): Chris Werner: 9781932494600: Amazon.com: Books
The book calls for Fastener Assembly Lube for torqueing bolts properly. All I could find was the ARP stuff. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9909
I bought the ARP lube but all they say is for high performance applications and with ARP bolts. Can I use this safely with new stock torque to yield bolts? And do I use this on things like header bolts and accessory drive bolts?
The book calls for Fastener Assembly Lube for torqueing bolts properly. All I could find was the ARP stuff. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-100-9909
I bought the ARP lube but all they say is for high performance applications and with ARP bolts. Can I use this safely with new stock torque to yield bolts? And do I use this on things like header bolts and accessory drive bolts?
Clean the threaded holes with a thread chase and blow them out before you install the heads.
