233/239 112 lsa?
any input is appreciated!

Also, given that it's an off the shelf TSP cam have you thought about asking the very people that designed this cam, aka TSP themselves? They might know a thing or two about it...
Just my 2 cents.
How do you want it to drive?
There's essentially two things to look at with any cam in a 346. One is the valve events and the other is the overlap. Overlap makes power but it also makes it harder to drive as you ratchet up the overlap. When you combine the valve events (opening and closing of the int/exh valves) and overlap together you end up with the shape of the torque curve and the intensity of the curve. It's what the sticky at the top talks about with why LSA doesn't matter. Pick your valve events and then pick how you want it to drive to determine the duration and LSA numbers. The valve events are pretty well set for the 346 with the plastic intakes. So the rest is tuning it for how you want it to drive and, ultimately, how much compression you wish to use.
For example, a 228/232 112+2 and a 234/238 110+3 will peak about the same RPM with the 234 making more peak power in a more violent fashion. It will drive worse and have less linear power delivery. But it will make a good 15-20hp more. Both like about the same amount of compression due to the same intake valve closing event. But the driving dynamics are significantly different as are the shapes of the curve due to the tighter LSA on the 234/238.
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Tsp also specs cams as well. Before they release their cams they did a ton of engine dyno & track testing so they've got a pretty good handle on this stuff. I remember them posting results back in the day on their 228r cam & everyone thought that cam was going to her too huge & not even clear. Then we were all blown away by the results. Just call them directly for info on the cam & see what they say & see if a different cam would be better or even a custom one.
Drives smooth, and has a nasty lope..
any input is appreciated!

1st clip 3/4" plate
2nd clip no plate, sounds a lot cleaner and you can hear the lope better, but loud at wot.
One thing I don't like is the 112+0... it needs about 3 to 4 degrees advance to make it perform "optimally." A 233 duration intake lobe on a 112 ICL is too late for a 346 unless you have a lot of compression. You lose some bottom end with it but it should extend the power past peak pretty nicely.
OP like he said, if your car is a m6 then you need different gears to go with it and you'll be fine. Otherwise you'll be having to reel them in once you get your rpm's up. If your car is an automatic then just get at least a 3600 or higher stall and you'll be fine.
any input is appreciated!

As far as tuning, get someone that tunes fast cars at the track in your area.










