Some are saying "Good tuner can make it drives good" that's totally wrong. You can't just put 240ish cam with stock compression on stock 241 heads and ask the tuner to do some (BS MAGIC) to let it drives nice.

Regardless of bad low-mid range power/torque with BIG setups on small cubes, there is something that cannot be measured on dyno. Which is (part throttle response/driving). In my opinion this is what make the car "fun" to drive.

 

Chris Frank ported TFS heads. They'll run right at 3 grand. If I were to build another car and wanted to make a run at the stock block hydraulic h/c record I'd do that.

 

Whatever heads Ed Curtis TOLD me to run with his cam.

 

Any good set of ported heads would work great. Get the heads first and have Ed custom spec a Hellion profile cam around them. There are many variations to the Hellion cam, as the Hellion is simply the cam profile. Just like there are custom Streetsweeper cams.

 

I agree with getting a nice set of heads and a smaller/custom spec cam if you want great drivability. Drivability is subjective, some can handle bigger cams, I knew I could not deal with a large cam. I went heads only first, then spec'd a small cam.

When the car was heads only I only had top end performance, but when the small cam went in, what a huge difference!! It really woke up the heads. I have power from low to high and does not miss a beat.

I also agree with a 22x cam to keep nice drivable manners. I have way more power compared to stock but the car still has near stock driving manners.

 

What did your car put down with that combo?

 

Because of CA emissions, I have to go through stock cats and manifolds (mods in sig). I have not had it on a dyno yet. I hate to quote numbers without actual proof however my installer says I should be around 370-380 rwhp and 12.6 1/4 mile times.

It certainly feels like it from my prior runs but again I hate to quote via the butt dyno. I'll post it once I get it done.