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I have a friend that is going with a new "LSX" block for his latest turbo build...he graciously offered me his "used" Manley forged pistons...part# 592539C...
I need a recommendation from you guys on a "budget" friendly forged rod for my build...LQ4, stock crank, previously mentioned pistons...
I've looked a rods on the net for the last week...I have no idea what to go with. I'd like some "real world" feedback on this.
I have a friend that is going with a new "LSX" block for his latest turbo build...he graciously offered me his "used" Manley forged pistons...part# 592539C...
I need a recommendation from you guys on a "budget" friendly forged rod for my build...LQ4, stock crank, previously mentioned pistons...
I've looked a rods on the net for the last week...I have no idea what to go with. I'd like some "real world" feedback on this.
Thanks, in advance.
Assuming you need 6.125" length and .927 wrist pin. (You need to find out) Scat makes a set of 6.125" length, .927" pin, 7/16" ARP bolts with locator dowels, I beams for about $400. I have them in my motor and have whirled to 7 grand a few times and they're still there, is that budget enough? P.S They're lighter than H beams by 50+ grams or so, lighter is better in most cases. You asked.
Assuming you need 6.125" length and .927 wrist pin. (You need to find out) Scat makes a set of 6.125" length, .927" pin, 7/16" ARP bolts with locator dowels, I beams for about $400. I have them in my motor and have whirled to 7 grand a few times and they're still there, is that budget enough? P.S They're lighter than H beams by 50+ grams or so, lighter is better in most cases. You asked.
I apologize for not adding more info...and you are correct. those are the specs for these pistons...
6'125" length, .927 pin.
Thanks, I really appreciate the info...this is exactly what I was looking for...
Personally, I'd feel okay with 7400 RPM and probably 700rwhp. Not necessarily together. However, it includes 7/16 ARP Rod caps, is made of 4340 (even if Chinese) and is a decent budge rod. I probably wouldn't try to put a 370 together an run an F1R with 16psi on it and hope it holds at 900+rwhp.
Ideally, this would be a great replacement rod for a stock stroke setup with forged pistons and a potent heads/cam package with a 200 shot of nitrous. I'd feel okay spinning it to 7 grand or so with the heads/cam+spray.
Stock shortblocks can survive that, this rod would be better than stock by a lot. Especially in a blueprinted shortblock.
Originally Posted by CattleAc
Thanks for the link Jake...called and talked to them today...
I've followed your "Pulling the trigger on parts" thread from the beginning also.
What kind of horsepower and rpm would you guys feel comfortable putting through the $283 Scat rods?
.
I run them in 450-550 flywheel horse stock car engines that make 60 plus dyno pulls to 7200 each and every Saturday night. As long as the pistons are lighter than old TRW stuff and the crank is a decently balanced forging; they will last.
Ok, I have one more question...I can get the same rods with the ARP "2000" series bolts for and extra $96.00. $379.00. The rods with the ARP "8740" bolts are $283.00...
Is this even a consideration for this rod at an extra hundred bucks...???
With a 7/16" diameter bolt, I think the 8740 material would be fine for just about any hydraulic roller application. When you get down to the smaller diameters, like 3/8" or the stock 9mm, that's when I like to step up to the ARP 2000 material.
Yeah, I wouldn't worry at this point about the 8740 vs 2000.
In fact, I've been thinking about restalling my converter and running forged pistons and these rods in my 346 and spraying 250 through the motor. I've already spent the money on a good heads/cam package for a 346 and have the rest of the car setup to handle it. So I see no reason not to just use nitrous to go faster and these rods seem fine to me.
Not sure if you measured everything, but doesn't the 6.0 block have a shorter deck? Pretty sure you're gonna be .010 out the hole If you run the 6.125 rod. I've done that before, but you need to make sure you get the rest of the stuff right with your heads and head gaskets for your chosen compression and quench.
You will be ok. I was just letting you know they'll be out of the hole a little and you're prob going to have to run a .050-.060 thick head gasket so that your quench won't be too tight.
Thanks 64post, I going to use exactly what you suggested, I appreciate the input.
Originally Posted by Rise of the Phoenix
Good thread. So your buddy just gave you those pistons? If so, good friend. How much do those pistons run new?
Funny story about the pistons...I met this guy at a car show...he has a bitchin' Mazda RX7 turbo Ls conversion. (He's a member on here, rotary1307cc) I go over and chat him up...(this is a typical "Midwest" car show, tons of muscle cars...ricers not so much)
To me, his car stood out head and shoulders above anything there as far as technology and H.P. went...anyway, I bugged him about his combo for over an hour, I explain how bitchin' I think his ride is and that I'm a cheap *** and try to do everything on a "low-buck, no-buck" approach...he makes a lot of his own parts, so he's of the same mind set...
Anyway...long story long...we go our separate ways. This was July. About Dec I see on here in his thread...https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...70-tc78-2.html he's updating to the "LSX" block...I PM him about any left over parts...he gets right back and says I can have the pistons. I offer to pay...he says no, "I know you'll put them to good use, Merry Christmas".
Yeah...I haven't found these for under $600.00 yet...
I'll make it right with him someday...when I figure out how...
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Last edited by CattleAc; Feb 28, 2015 at 11:51 AM.