Since you asked for any input, I will add my .02.
I like Jake Fusions advice for these reasons.
It's pretty well accepted that the EPS CAMS use a better quality
Of steel for their cores then Comp as well as gentler opening ramps
Which are less aggressive on the valvetrain for street longevity
And reliability. Also on cathedral heads below 6500RPMs
A 5* exhaust split will drive a little better then a 8* split.
Everything else being equal.
I definitely would recommend the trunion upgrade! It's cheap
Insurance given the existing miles and the upgraded valve-spring
Pressure.
2nd choice would be COSPEED looks like a pretty good set up
Definitely not 228/228 very old tech.

 

All those lobes are 4 years old. And quoting comps most aggressive lobes doesnt give any fair idea to a first time cam buyer.
Lingenfelter uses the LSK on quite a few of their grinds. Ask the vette guys how much they like them.

EPS used to use comp...then another company...now possibly another. Nearly anyone can make X cam company map them a lobe. Why would you when there are so many out there and not even thought about?

 

Geoff switched to Cam Motion bc Comp let everyone and anyone order his proprietary lobes without contacting him first.

 

The 228r cam uses the dreaded xe-r lobes btw...

 

We also carry the CAM MOTION line and can grind LS cam specs using their 8620 cores.

Here is a line of their "shelf" cams.

http://www.coloradospeed.com/cam-motion-m-582.html

I do not have a problem with the COMP CAMS 5160 steel cores. They are not bad. Obviously CAM MOTION does not either as they are coming out with a similar steel core as an option over their more expensive 8620 cores here preeeety soon.

I'll bring this to light too. Many don't even know CRANE Cams is back. We can grind an LS CRANE Cam for you too.

Here is their line of "shelf" cams.

http://www.coloradospeed.com/1998200...id=25&sort=20a

 

I would go with a full dual valve spring setup with steel retainers. We have the CM steel retainers and complete valve spring kit. If you're going to do a cam. Do the springs esp if you have miles on them. Spend the extra so you don't have to worry if that single stock spring is going to break.

 

Titanium retainers ARE lighter but for what you are doing, it is not going to matter and the weight difference is nothing to scream about.

Titanium is a softer metal which is why if you summer bracket race, you should change them out or change them with hard driving every 20K miles.

The steel retainers are harder material and will not distort under heat so quickly. Plus they are way cheaper.

Most of my customers, I push them towards the steel retainers now adays. The guys who order titanium retainer kits, do so for a reason and they know what they are getting into.