Double checking before I buy new cam.
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Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,845
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From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Since you asked for any input, I will add my .02.
I like Jake Fusions advice for these reasons.
It's pretty well accepted that the EPS CAMS use a better quality
Of steel for their cores then Comp as well as gentler opening ramps
Which are less aggressive on the valvetrain for street longevity
And reliability. Also on cathedral heads below 6500RPMs
A 5* exhaust split will drive a little better then a 8* split.
Everything else being equal.
I definitely would recommend the trunion upgrade! It's cheap
Insurance given the existing miles and the upgraded valve-spring
Pressure.
2nd choice would be COSPEED looks like a pretty good set up
Definitely not 228/228 very old tech.
I like Jake Fusions advice for these reasons.
It's pretty well accepted that the EPS CAMS use a better quality
Of steel for their cores then Comp as well as gentler opening ramps
Which are less aggressive on the valvetrain for street longevity
And reliability. Also on cathedral heads below 6500RPMs
A 5* exhaust split will drive a little better then a 8* split.
Everything else being equal.
I definitely would recommend the trunion upgrade! It's cheap
Insurance given the existing miles and the upgraded valve-spring
Pressure.
2nd choice would be COSPEED looks like a pretty good set up
Definitely not 228/228 very old tech.
All those lobes are 4 years old. And quoting comps most aggressive lobes doesnt give any fair idea to a first time cam buyer.
Lingenfelter uses the LSK on quite a few of their grinds. Ask the vette guys how much they like them.
EPS used to use comp...then another company...now possibly another. Nearly anyone can make X cam company map them a lobe. Why would you when there are so many out there and not even thought about?
Lingenfelter uses the LSK on quite a few of their grinds. Ask the vette guys how much they like them.
EPS used to use comp...then another company...now possibly another. Nearly anyone can make X cam company map them a lobe. Why would you when there are so many out there and not even thought about?
We also carry the CAM MOTION line and can grind LS cam specs using their 8620 cores.
Here is a line of their "shelf" cams.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/cam-motion-m-582.html
I do not have a problem with the COMP CAMS 5160 steel cores. They are not bad. Obviously CAM MOTION does not either as they are coming out with a similar steel core as an option over their more expensive 8620 cores here preeeety soon.
I'll bring this to light too. Many don't even know CRANE Cams is back. We can grind an LS CRANE Cam for you too.
Here is their line of "shelf" cams.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/1998200...id=25&sort=20a
Here is a line of their "shelf" cams.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/cam-motion-m-582.html
I do not have a problem with the COMP CAMS 5160 steel cores. They are not bad. Obviously CAM MOTION does not either as they are coming out with a similar steel core as an option over their more expensive 8620 cores here preeeety soon.
I'll bring this to light too. Many don't even know CRANE Cams is back. We can grind an LS CRANE Cam for you too.
Here is their line of "shelf" cams.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/1998200...id=25&sort=20a
The fact that you are planning on putting a lot of miles on it, I would pay attention to lobe design. Don't pick a cam with rowdy lobes if you want reliability. As far as the Ti retainers go, If this car is going to see a lot of mileage then I would stay away from titanium and stick with the stock retainers if you are going to run beehives.
Titanium is a softer metal which is why if you summer bracket race, you should change them out or change them with hard driving every 20K miles.
The steel retainers are harder material and will not distort under heat so quickly. Plus they are way cheaper.
Most of my customers, I push them towards the steel retainers now adays. The guys who order titanium retainer kits, do so for a reason and they know what they are getting into.
