ls1 forged rods and pistons
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TECH Resident
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: VA
ls1 forged rods and pistons i have an LS1 short block that has 53k miles on it and is in good shape, ive been thinking about putting forged rods and pistons in it but was wondering how in depth i would really have to go? could i pull out the factory rods and pistons, never touch the crank and just hone the cylinder walls my self and put in the new rods and pistons with the arp 2000 bolts?
this would be a forged block built for boost, probably in the 700-800rwhp area, 7k red line, factory ls1 compression pistons and id run 317s so i could get the 9.2-9.3 CR
would there be more yall would do? something differnt?
not trying to cheap out on build just not tryin to go all out if i dont have too
this would be a forged block built for boost, probably in the 700-800rwhp area, 7k red line, factory ls1 compression pistons and id run 317s so i could get the 9.2-9.3 CR
would there be more yall would do? something differnt?
not trying to cheap out on build just not tryin to go all out if i dont have too
What rods and pistons?
At the very least, I would have the cylinders honed by a machine shop and not some dingleball hone someone might use in their garage. Set the bearing clearances and ring gaps on the loose side as well.
I built a guy a 427ci LSX a couple years ago for his twin turbo 5th Gen. It wasn't much of a budget build, but with the LSX block, Hellfire rings, and .220" wall piston pins, it should be pretty reliable with his goal of 800whp. With that much cylinder pressure, even though it's been done, I really don't like using a stock sleeve aluminum block or a stock crankshaft.
At the very least, I would have the cylinders honed by a machine shop and not some dingleball hone someone might use in their garage. Set the bearing clearances and ring gaps on the loose side as well.
I built a guy a 427ci LSX a couple years ago for his twin turbo 5th Gen. It wasn't much of a budget build, but with the LSX block, Hellfire rings, and .220" wall piston pins, it should be pretty reliable with his goal of 800whp. With that much cylinder pressure, even though it's been done, I really don't like using a stock sleeve aluminum block or a stock crankshaft.
Staging Lane
Joined: Jun 2014
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From: brainerd mn
do more research also wouldnt go with there 1k set of rods and pistons they told me them self get better rods for that much power also do arp main studs
gotta do more to the ls1 blocks then u would have to to a 5.3 to handle the same power
also u want pistons with the 2xxx forged aluminum not the 4xxx from everything iv read
i ended up getting comp star h beam rods and diamond pistons do it once and right then spend the money twice
and ill agree with what KCS said get it honed by a shop with a torque plate on it
gotta do more to the ls1 blocks then u would have to to a 5.3 to handle the same power
also u want pistons with the 2xxx forged aluminum not the 4xxx from everything iv read
i ended up getting comp star h beam rods and diamond pistons do it once and right then spend the money twice
and ill agree with what KCS said get it honed by a shop with a torque plate on it
I got the $1000 set of wiseco pistons(-3.2cc valve reliefs) and eagle rods in my ls1. I got it bored to 3.903. If your bearings are still decent and not scored, you can reuse them. I would recommend getting the ARP rod bolts while you're down there. You can reuse the stock main cap bolts/studs but you lose clamping force when reusing them. I just ordered some from a local dealer for 68 for all 20 at $3.20 a piece.
