new 370 ci build, input required
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From: CroSSby, TexaSS
Whats going on guys, need a few opinions from you educated folk on a new boost motor. I wanna sound like I know what I want but all the possibilities are a bit overwhelming.
My current 370 lost a ringland, need a new block yada yada, slugs were gapped for a 125 shot. #2 is gone.
moving forwards, I'm looking into building a decent boost motor around 9.8:1-10.0:1 for e85 or 93/pure meth
I plan on running LSA heads, I do not have any as of right now but that's the general idea, hence the 4.030 bore.
So far I have compiled the following list and will purchase parts in this order..
K1 3.622 stroke forged crank (I want to stay stock stroke, I keep seeing people saying stroker+boost is a no go unless it's an aftermarket block)
K1 6.125 forged H Beam Rod.
Wiseco Flat top with reliefs WIS-K398X3
Wiseco S718 tool steel wrist pins
I figure with a 70CC head and LS9 gasket I will end up at about 9.9:1?
I will be transferring the bottom end ARP studs off my current motor to the new one as well. keeping my same 229/235 Tick turbo cam and 317's for the time being.
Spoke to several builders about pinning the mains, all of them said it wasn't needed. If the crank were to indeed move then I would have other issues to worry about. Who agrees?
Who would trust my recipe to 1200 wheel? That's the most I'd ever want out of my Fbody. I'm shooting for 900-1000 rear wheel to get into the high 8's.
My current 370 lost a ringland, need a new block yada yada, slugs were gapped for a 125 shot. #2 is gone.
moving forwards, I'm looking into building a decent boost motor around 9.8:1-10.0:1 for e85 or 93/pure meth
I plan on running LSA heads, I do not have any as of right now but that's the general idea, hence the 4.030 bore.
So far I have compiled the following list and will purchase parts in this order..
K1 3.622 stroke forged crank (I want to stay stock stroke, I keep seeing people saying stroker+boost is a no go unless it's an aftermarket block)
K1 6.125 forged H Beam Rod.
Wiseco Flat top with reliefs WIS-K398X3
Wiseco S718 tool steel wrist pins
I figure with a 70CC head and LS9 gasket I will end up at about 9.9:1?
I will be transferring the bottom end ARP studs off my current motor to the new one as well. keeping my same 229/235 Tick turbo cam and 317's for the time being.
Spoke to several builders about pinning the mains, all of them said it wasn't needed. If the crank were to indeed move then I would have other issues to worry about. Who agrees?
Who would trust my recipe to 1200 wheel? That's the most I'd ever want out of my Fbody. I'm shooting for 900-1000 rear wheel to get into the high 8's.
I've never used the K1 stuff on a high power build, but they look like they would be fine. Good choice on the upgraded pins though.
I've never had to pin the mains, but I'm sure it would help. The caps will move a little but the crank flexing will probably be more of an issue. Adequate clearances, good oil and a good oil pump will probably keep the motor pretty happy though, regardless. You just have to understand that when you build something like this, a 1000whp small block doesn't come with a 100k mile warranty. There's a much narrower window for error so some of the smallest details can ruin everything if overlooked.
I've never had to pin the mains, but I'm sure it would help. The caps will move a little but the crank flexing will probably be more of an issue. Adequate clearances, good oil and a good oil pump will probably keep the motor pretty happy though, regardless. You just have to understand that when you build something like this, a 1000whp small block doesn't come with a 100k mile warranty. There's a much narrower window for error so some of the smallest details can ruin everything if overlooked.
If I were to do it, I would put in a dowel around the main bolts like the LSX block rather than actually pinning them. It might be a little easier from a machinist's standpoint.
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From: CroSSby, TexaSS
Shouldn't be too hard. I'd try LME or Westside. They're both on the other side of town from you, but I'm pretty sure either one could get the job done.
If I were to do it, I would put in a dowel around the main bolts like the LSX block rather than actually pinning them. It might be a little easier from a machinist's standpoint.
If I were to do it, I would put in a dowel around the main bolts like the LSX block rather than actually pinning them. It might be a little easier from a machinist's standpoint.





