Balancer bolt issues. Need help
#22
If you can't get enough rotation or torque on the bolt use a longer lever, Its that simple. You could twist the bolt off if you used a long enough lever.
Think of it like this: 200 ft lb= 200lb of force @ 12 inches from the bolt. So if you double the length of the lever to 24 inches to achieve 200ft lb only takes 100 lbs of force. BUT <there's always a but> The problem with turning any fastener above 200 ft lbs is 1 holding what ever you are tightening into like the crank AND the friction of the head of the bolt and threads.
I've done a few Ford F350 rears and the pinion bolt calls for 400 ft lbs. Even with a 3/4 inch driver set the lever needed turn the nut up to 400 ft lbs BENDS the 3/4 driver bar.
I've found its much easier to torque high torque bolts by using oil on the threads<although torque valves call for dry threads> and tightening to half value then back off completely and go to full value in ONE MOTION. No stopping. But you need to figure out the lever length and the force you may be able to transfer before you do it.
Getting to 200ft lbs takes me at least a 3 ft lever and some serious grunt standing up. Anything over that you need to seriously plan ahead because not only is the lever important but what ever is holding the stationary part like the crank must not bend or relief turning forces as you input them.
You can't expect to stuff a pair of old channel locks into the balancer and frt cover and tighten the bolt to 230 ft lbs.
Think of it like this: 200 ft lb= 200lb of force @ 12 inches from the bolt. So if you double the length of the lever to 24 inches to achieve 200ft lb only takes 100 lbs of force. BUT <there's always a but> The problem with turning any fastener above 200 ft lbs is 1 holding what ever you are tightening into like the crank AND the friction of the head of the bolt and threads.
I've done a few Ford F350 rears and the pinion bolt calls for 400 ft lbs. Even with a 3/4 inch driver set the lever needed turn the nut up to 400 ft lbs BENDS the 3/4 driver bar.
I've found its much easier to torque high torque bolts by using oil on the threads<although torque valves call for dry threads> and tightening to half value then back off completely and go to full value in ONE MOTION. No stopping. But you need to figure out the lever length and the force you may be able to transfer before you do it.
Getting to 200ft lbs takes me at least a 3 ft lever and some serious grunt standing up. Anything over that you need to seriously plan ahead because not only is the lever important but what ever is holding the stationary part like the crank must not bend or relief turning forces as you input them.
You can't expect to stuff a pair of old channel locks into the balancer and frt cover and tighten the bolt to 230 ft lbs.