$2,500 to upgrade LS1 - Best Moves?
So the question is, what are the best modifications for that price range?
Brief overview of the car:
2000 Z28 mostly stock, 80,000 miles, M6. Has SLP airbox, K&N filter and Flowmaster exhaust. It is NOT a drag/track car so maximum power isn't the only important thing. It was my daily driver for 3 years, and now it's mostly a summer car, but I want to keep it usable for the long term and the occasional road trip. Also, located in VA, so long tubes are sadly out of the question (I know some people in VA get away with it, but talking to the local shops, none of them can pass the car with aftermarket/moved cats)
Also, while I'm willing to do a bit of work, to be on the safe side I want to assume the cost includes labor in case I get in over my head.
TL: DR - Have about 3K to put into a mostly stock 2000 Z28. Main goals to make it louder and somewhat faster, but long term drive-ability is important.
So, what's best? Upgraded cat-back? Cam? LS6 intake?
Gears however are a great recommendation, and OP you will get those from many people. Throw in some 4.10s and your car will feel worlds better accelerating and cruising.
An LS6 intake is also a good idea like you mention and it's cheap. Don't bother with a catback, just get some new muffler(s) and call it a day about loudness.
I'd throw in some money to the suspension first especially if you haven't touched it in 80,000 miles. After that a small cam to pass the inspection ***** in VA will be next.
Last edited by DANOZ28; Apr 24, 2015 at 10:08 AM.
-Gears
- Pick up a used fast 90/92 intake being you can find them almost as cheap as a LS6 and you will get another 10hp over a LS6 even on a bolt-on car.
-Next step would be a cam, something like a 224/228 112 will pick up 35-40whp and still drive like stock. Check out BTR, his stage 1 with the btr platinum spring kit would be a nice setup for you.
This is the order I would start, but you will have that 3k spent before you get to the cam.
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Labor is definitely the killer, but my extent of experience is limited to oil changes, belts/pulleys, air pump replacement etc... The simple maintenance. I'm up for trying some more, but don't want to get to the point where I need it towed somewhere.
I'll start looking into new rear ends and intakes - what's the best brand for gears? I know that's definitely a good place to start as I've heard if you sneeze to close to the (S10 based I believe?) rear end it will snap.
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Since headers are out of the question, I would suggest an electric cut out or two. You can have them installed with the clutch install since the y-pipe has to come off anyways to drop the transmission.
If you just want more pop I'd do something this: http://www.vortechsuperchargers.com/page.php?id=30108 Sure you might have to save up more money (unless you find a nice one used) - but, it would simplify things.
Otherwise you are going to end up piecing together a formula - which could leave you disappointed or overwhelmed.
However here are a few things I quickly found that were marginally interesting:
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/eng...s/viewall.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ls1-build.html
http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermk...es/amquery.php
Personally I would be running a set of ported/milled stock 241 castings (or 799/243s if funds are available), a Dorman repop LS6 intake or the like, a ported stock throttle body, and OEM cam (like the LS2/6) plus some SLP 1.85 rockers or a suitable CARB legal cam (w/freshened up valve train pieces), some CARB legal shorty headers and maybe some upgraded CARB legal aftermarket cats - and an electric cut out on the I-pipe. And a tune. Basically go as "stock appearing" as possible.
2000 5.7L ALL YGMXV05.7083 LEV1 LEV DUAL 2 ASSEMBLY RIGHT 46489 D-193-89
2000 5.7L ALL YGMXV05.7083 LEV1 LEV DUAL 2 ASSEMBLY LEFT 448477 D-193-113
2000 5.7L ALL YGMXV05.7083 LEV1 LEV DUAL 2 ASSEMBLY RIGHT 448489 D-193-113
Here's what we did (the cats were swapped back on at time of E-test; took 30mins with hand tools):
Clutch and flywheel swap. Don't get the crappy LS7 junk, that ADDS weight. You want to remove weight from the drive train.
You already have a flowmaster, I'm assuming the 80 series dual outlet? Get a 3in cutout and put it just before the I pipe goes over the rear axle. With stock manifolds and cats it sounds great, not raspy at all.
LS6 intake is a good piece, but people want more than there worth now'a days. Either LS6 or even a BBK SSI intake if it's around the same price.
Springs/shocks and rear LCA's.
Replace all the bushings as well.
IF you can manage, some 243/799 heads will help.
Tune by a reputable tuner.
With your limitations in your state, that's the cheapest way to do it and have a good noticeable differance. People most often overlook the small things. You will be happy with the differance.
Yeah, not quite California, but not far behind unfortunately...










