JoeDirt

I need help , any ideas here . Im over a full second slower and my mph is down 4 - 5 on avarage. Im now trapping 103 . It was a ****ing embarassment at the track.

Top end feels flat . . .suges a bit . . ..very disapointed

This years mods were the cam , valvetrain , headers and meizere ewp. With just an fipk loudmouth and asp I was trapping 109 mph . . .wheres all my power gone ??

Cars info ( * are new mods ) :
2002 Ws6 M6
Kooks stainless longtubes*
Kooks catted Y *
slp loudmouth
mti stealth II cam*
asp pullies
comp 918's and titanium retainers*
thinder racing pushrods*
meizere electric water pump*
Jantzer ported tb

Raceweight = 3580 lbs ( me in car )
best time was 13.91 7 @ 103mph ( sealevel here too)

Basicaly im slower than I was stock and i have no idea how or why . . . car seems flat above 5300 rpm

JoeDirt

TTT

I autotaped it last night and got 3.96 degrese of KR across every gear 1- 4. Like if you took a ruller and drew a line straight for 14 or so inches only stoping through the shifts and starting right back. Perfect pattern . . . . how much Hp do you think this would cost .

Timing was around 15 degrese WOT

JoeDirt

New codes . . . this may shed some light ;

these are from this morning to and from the bank so there current .

RED- P0327 Knock sensor 1 circut low
YELLOW- PO135 02 sensor heater circut
YELLOW- 02 sensor bank 2
YELLOW - PO300 random misfires
YELLOW - PO327 knock sensor circut one low
RED- PO135 02 bank 1
RED- P0155 02 bank 2
RED - PO300 random missfires
RED - PO327 knock sensor circut low

I also ran a cylinder balance test and nothing seemed out of the ordinary . . . there was some variation but nothing that would point to a problem .

MyLS1Hauls

iTrader: (2)

Willing to bet you damaged some wiring installing the headers/cam...either pinched a harness, or burned it on the headers. The PO300 is because of the cam.

JoeDirt

I couldnt see anything near the headers . . . could you point me in the direction of some that might cause this problem ?? Where do the knock sensor wiring harneses plug in ??

HairStraightBack

Twitchy Your timing is way off man. TTT for ya.

JoeDirt

Thanks man , Im pretty depressed over this

Could I have fried my pcm saudering (sp) the electric water pump to the switched 12v ignition wire in the fuse box ??

Ive been over this thing inside and out and cant find anything pinched , melted or disconected . Pulled the valve covers and all is prechy in there . . .

JoeDirt

Thanks man , Im pretty depressed over this

Could I have fried my pcm saudering (sp) the electric water pump to the switched 12v ignition wire in the fuse box ??

Ive been over this thing inside and out and cant find anything pinched , melted or disconected . Pulled the valve covers and all is peachy in there . . .

silverTA

man i got the same proplem,,i dunno what to do ,,

i think am going to get it retunne again

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

We had a knock sensor come unplugged some how and was giving us 4 degrees knock all the time. Timing will make a big difference in the power. Change the allowed misfires and it will stop throwing the po300. The o2 codes are a common problem with long tubes. You may have a bad knock senor if the wiring is good. Knock sensors are under the intake maifold. You have to pull it to get to them. Good luck tacking it down.

JoeDirt

Thanks for the info thats awsome !!!

maybe I should kill two birds and get a knock-out box .

I just tapped my car again and noticed my o2 sensors vary up to 14 points from bank to bank. Bank 2 is always WAY lower . . . . maybe bad or fouled 02's ??

Scalpel

iTrader: (4)

Your O2s are shot or you have an exhaust leak at the collector or header to head mating causing unmetered air to come in and throw off the O2 readings.

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

Yeah... what he said is right on. The readings should be fairly close.

JoeDirt

Update : Switched out my ported maf for a stocker and Ltrm's are much closer together and much closer to 0.0 all the time. They were up around +15 - +20 mst the time now they are -1.0 to +4.0 .

O2's ( bank 2 ) is acting fucked up .. . its not bouncing as high or as low in the STFT's and is acting lazy skipping out for long periods . I have the autotap file if anyone can take a look . . . its about 1 meg but I can email it.

Im now getting codes stating both o2 banks arent switching properly. I am still getting the knock sensor code aven after screwing with the harness for quite awhile.

WOT timing is 9.5 - 10.5 degrees .

JoeDirt

which would make the o2 readings higher (+ figures ) . . . the side with the leak or the side without ??

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

The side with the leak will be more postive. The switching deal is very common and fixing any exhaust leaks will help but they may still come up. You might have a bad knock sensor. If it is coding on one specifically, swap it out. Do you have a banging exhaust that could cause false knock? Those wot timing numbers are the lowest I've seen. We got 14-15 degrees with a bad knock sensor and 4 degrees constant knock.

JoeDirt

I do beleive the knock sensor is bad . . . it keeps saying knock sensor 1 is reading low . I thought I may have tugged or jammed the harness behind the drivers side valve cover but I went over it and it seems ok. How would the knock sensor go bad all of a sudden . . . I never removed the intake ?? Puzzling

I do have one header very very close to the pass side k member ( about 1/8 inch )

Bank 2 is pass side ?? Heres a couple pictures of my o2 readings to show you what I mean . . .the light blue o2 is all irratic .

strokedls1

iTrader: (1)

I had to replace one on my motor out of the blue. No idea why it would go out but they do. Any signs of banging on the header or k-member. That is pretty close and could be banging.

JoeDirt

With open throttle pics

JoeDirt

I looked for marks on the header and couldnt see any . . . I think Ill grind the k member down just to remove that possibility. .