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400+rwhp with Heads + Cam

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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 08:57 PM
  #41  
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Looks like a good build parts list. I would look into going to the level 2 rebuild though. Better fork pads and billet keys in the trans are worth it if youre going to have some fun.

Like exidous said the afr heads dont need a big split. They flow so well in both areas they dont need a 6-8 degree split like the stock heads do. Mamo used a 224/230 cam on his that were ported iirc so with stock afr castings a 2-4 degree split would be fine. I would all mamo up he may have some used castings laying around, but even if not he can easily put you into a nice combo and hes a great guy to talk with.
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Old Jun 22, 2015 | 10:12 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by redbird555
Looks like a good build parts list. I would look into going to the level 2 rebuild though. Better fork pads and billet keys in the trans are worth it if youre going to have some fun.

Like exidous said the afr heads dont need a big split. They flow so well in both areas they dont need a 6-8 degree split like the stock heads do. Mamo used a 224/230 cam on his that were ported iirc so with stock afr castings a 2-4 degree split would be fine. I would all mamo up he may have some used castings laying around, but even if not he can easily put you into a nice combo and hes a great guy to talk with.
I was thinking about the level 2 but i think ill hold off on it until I really start to make some power. For now ill keep the level 1. Tomorrow I'll be calling Mamo to maybe get Mamofied (sorry not sorry)
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 04:09 AM
  #43  
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The level two isn't really about power. It's more about abuse. If you plan on shifting hard at all, get the level two. There's no point in doing the level one if you are going to do the level two later. Unless you are doing all the work yourself. But you'll still be pulling and rebuilding the trans twice.
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 09:06 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Exidous
The level two isn't really about power. It's more about abuse. If you plan on shifting hard at all, get the level two. There's no point in doing the level one if you are going to do the level two later. Unless you are doing all the work yourself. But you'll still be pulling and rebuilding the trans twice.
This, when you're slamming gears the stock plastic fork pads and stamped shift keys are taking a beating. One step in the wrong direction and you break a key or the nylon fork pads give out and bam now you need another rebuild.... trust me the upgraded parts are worth it.
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 09:55 AM
  #45  
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Default 400+rwhp with Heads + Cam

Originally Posted by Exidous
The level two isn't really about power. It's more about abuse. If you plan on shifting hard at all, get the level two. There's no point in doing the level one if you are going to do the level two later. Unless you are doing all the work yourself. But you'll still be pulling and rebuilding the trans twice.
Good point... I'm gonna need that extra durability since I already blew 3rd and 4th
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 08:18 PM
  #46  
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So, I was shopping for a rebuild on t-56s on Tick Performance website. It seems the only differnece betweeen the level 2 rebuild and the level 1 is the cryogenic treatment of parts. Is this worth the extra 400$?
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Old Jun 23, 2015 | 09:07 PM
  #47  
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I can honestly say I have no looked at their levels since about Aug 2012 when I rebuilt my trans. I'm pretty sure the packages have changed since. Anyway yes, The level one is fine. I have all bronze pads and billet keys without the cryo or REM polishing. Sort of a hybrid. The cryo adds a lot of strength. REM reduces friction/heat. Means less drivetrain loss. Ticks ratings are very conservative. They account for the heaviest car with slicks and clutch dumps.

Check out Texas Drivetrain And Performance(TDP). I bought my parts from them and Tick. Both companies have killer Support!

The 5/6 driven gear is an issue on these trans. The mainshafts were not built with enough interference for the fit and the gear slowly eats at the splines. TDP made me a thicker mainshaft that fit great!

Last edited by Exidous; Jun 23, 2015 at 09:14 PM.
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Old Jun 24, 2015 | 10:55 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Exidous
I can honestly say I have no looked at their levels since about Aug 2012 when I rebuilt my trans. I'm pretty sure the packages have changed since. Anyway yes, The level one is fine. I have all bronze pads and billet keys without the cryo or REM polishing. Sort of a hybrid. The cryo adds a lot of strength. REM reduces friction/heat. Means less drivetrain loss. Ticks ratings are very conservative. They account for the heaviest car with slicks and clutch dumps.

Check out Texas Drivetrain And Performance(TDP). I bought my parts from them and Tick. Both companies have killer Support!

The 5/6 driven gear is an issue on these trans. The mainshafts were not built with enough interference for the fit and the gear slowly eats at the splines. TDP made me a thicker mainshaft that fit great!
Okay! Sick I'll go check it out. Thanks very much!
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Old Jun 25, 2015 | 09:12 AM
  #49  
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My car makes 406 with a custom tick cam and bolt ons. It made 399.8 on a mustang Dyno. And it's perfectly drive able.
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